BMW X5 e53 CV axle shaft removal replacement DIY , in this video i show how to correctly remove the cv axle from a 2001-2006 bmw x5
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precise and to the point, well done.
the boot is torn on the driver side of my x5 cv axel and I'm experiencing a shuttering at low speeds and turning the x5 . the cv axel to blame? thanks
Great job! Love the video. I have the same car and am experiencing a lot of vibration at idle when the car is in drive and foot on the break. Was thinking about doing a front right axle change, read on one of the forums that it would help. Did you notice a smoother idle at stop lights and such after you changed out the axle?
Thanks for the insight!
Did you use a jack stand? I only saw the jack. Thanks for the post, going out in the driveway to remove mine now.
Should I drain oil Before removing axels?
Thanks, this helped a lot. What you don't mention was, you really will need to remove the brake caliper and rotor when you put in the new CV axle. It is a real PITA to get the splines thru the hub. You will need a large rubber hammer and a large can of elbow grease to get it on enough to get the 36mm nut on, then tighten that sucker…..
I have an E39 2002 model 530 diesel automatic car with the M57 engine (CA980-40). I changed the front suspension shock absorbers with MEYLE, engine mounts with BMW Genuine, control arms MEYLE again.
I had the oil change 3.000 miles ago and also did the transmission fluid change at 60K. The car is currently at 65K miles. I am the 2nd owner of the car. Overall it is a great car but I think I have some problems with it. An old guy used to own the car. He died, and I bought the car from his sons. I have no information regarding the service history of the car and how it has been used. But all the mechanics I have taken it to have said that it has been taken care of and there are no leaks and so on.
I have been having a wobbly/ like a fud noise coming from the front of the car, under my legs where the gas pedal is. Or maybe the wobbly noise is coming from the transmission but I feel that it is coming from the engine compartment. This noise takes place when the transmission shifts gears from 1 to 2 and vice versa. The acceleration is fine. The engine sounds smooth and there are no problems with it. But there is a big “once jump”, “a noticeable wobble sound” when the car shifts from 1 to 2 or from 2 to 1 speed. This is especially more noticeable when the car has not reached its operating temperature. After 10 minutes of driving, some (most part) of this noise disappears.
This vibration has gotten worse, not by much, but it has. My main problem is I feel vibration under my feet where the gas pedal is – when I touch it, it gives me that feeling. I feel it more when I push it and let it go.
I had a mechanic check. He says that it is not the transmission problem or its mounts but rather the rear axle. He drove it and also checked it and showed it to me. There is a little play at the long shaft that is connected to the transmission. It is not the part that connects to the transmission directly (where the guibo is) but rather at the back place where the transaxle is. If that is the case I really do not know what do since it costs around 1000 euros of BMW genuine. I have seen a video related to rear axles and the guy says these usually wear out after 100K or even at 200K miles. I really couldn't understand why mine went at 65K miles. Again, if that is the problem. The mechanic is sure that is the problem. He says that if it had been the transmission mounts, the car would vibrate a lot even at stand still, I am not sure if that's correct.
Thanks Nathan!
Replaced the driver side last year (E53 3.0D) and now the passenger side is to be replaced due to a cracked boot.
As I don't know how long I've been driving with a cracked boot I prefer to change the complete output shaft.
It's only $60 anyway here in Europe (eBay Germany).
Great Video! Please keep em coming. I have a 330xi and I will be attempting a DIY axle shaft replacement soon.
Question: EMPI and a few other axle shaft assemblies are only 70 bucks, versus the DKN OEM for 300 bucks……have you seen a decent success rate with the less expensive (EMPI and the others)? I.e. will I be (a lot) better off with the OEM in your opinion, enough to justify the added expense? Thanks for any input.
hey Nathan. could you do a video on a e39 intake or valley pan? you do an awesome job.