Replacing a leaking fork seal on a 2002 R1150RT. This is not a difficult job. Some BMW dealers charge 4 or more hours to do this! Save the money and do this …
BMW Service – R1150RT Fork Seal Replacement
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Hi Chris,
I don’t have the seal puller, would it be possible to pry the seal out with
a slotted screw driver?
Thanks
Alan
thanks Chris this has been so helpful, I’ve never done one and after
looking at this video it’s going to be easy, again thanks
ou can tell me when you replace the fork seal up, you have to complete the
oil?
if so, what type of oil and how much amount of oil
thanks.
Thanks Chris very helpful video. I was not able to get the fork seal off
with seal puller from Harbor Freight I just couldn’t get enough of an
angle, so I ended up having to take the wheel and brakes off to pull the
tube off the bike. But I later discovered I could pull the seal out nearly
straight out when it was on my bench with a single prong garden fork with a
1.5″ blade. So this or another improvised tool might work for someone.
Also, my bike was not handling properly with a the leaking right seal, the
right fork was bouncing up and down way more than the left, and the tire
was wearing unevenly. With the new seal all is good. I think it’s
dangerous to ride with a badly leaking seal.
but when you change you have to add oil or change oil and what goals?
thanks
Great video, helped me a lot to do my own 1100GS fork seal swap. Great
channel, wish I had found it sooner.
gracias, amigo me has ahorrado 150 dlls. muy util
your tips are great. and you are a great character. love it.
Another good video for those BMW owners !!
You’re welcome.
Photobetz, I am not sure what you are asking but I would place a
jack/lift/block under the engine to prevent the nose of the bike from
dipping which could lead to the centerstand folding up / bike falling over.
As for the BMW Part# for the seals: # 31 42 2 311 988 SHAFT SEAL $16.00
each in the US. The same seal is used for all R850 ~ R1150 bikes and R1100S
& R1200C/CL. I hope that helps, Chris
Thanks.
I don’t use red much unless it is an item that can be easily heated prior
to disassembly. Do NOT use ANY threadlocker on the swingarm and rear drive
pivot pin threads… NONE! The factory changed their mind and we were
instructed in BMW ‘school’ to stop using threadlocker on nthese threads as
techs were destroying the pins during removal. Install dry and torque
properly.
Thanks, BBWrench! Great vid! I’m ready to replace my seal!
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make it. It saves me $250.00.
That’s what the dealership quoted me to do this on my R1150GS.
Thanks….
🙂
Thank you!
Great video, as usual!
That’s great. I am glad that I have saved you money and time. Thanks for
your comments 🙂
Chris your the men! 2Q: Do you lift the bike or just on central stand? How
can i as privet bay BMW part without a an official workshop number ? thx –
Betz from Switzerland (R1100R 1998)
Cool. Where do you normally use red thread locker? I see the telelever
ball, center of headset, and the rear pivots on final drive. Do you use red
back there?
thanks
You’re welcome.
wow! So Cool! Very knowledgeable and talented Chris.
The first nut you removed with the impact wrench appears to be attached
with red loctite on my 2004 r1150rtp. Is this normal? I think the manual
says to use red locktite. Do you use red?
Thank you!
Thank you!