Save hundreds of dollars by replacing your BMW’s or MINI’s serpentine belt yourself. Bavarian Otto show you how in this easy-to-follow video. All the parts y…
BMW Serpentine Belt Replacement
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Belt, Replacement, Serpentine
- Categories: BMW
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I have a 2002 E53 3.0 M54. I want to replace the belts and tensioners, but
would like to be thorough while the belts are off. I am going to also
replace the water pump. What other parts/pulleys should I replace while its
opened up?
The idlers are “hard mounted” and direct the belt in order to apply
additional torque to a driven pulley or to direct the belt to the next
pulley. A tensioner pulley is spring or hydraulically mounted an “pushes”
or “pulls” on the belt in order to keep the belt tight on the pulleys.
Well, we’re not sure just whet the mechanic may have had in mind, but the
belt replacement certainly does not require removal of the turbocharger.
The belt is accessed through the passenger wheel-well area. Remove the
wheel, then remove the inner plastic shielding.
The M50 engine will be very similar. You may find that the tensioner
assembly is hydraulic vs. the mechanical style shown here.
great video thanks 🙂
If doing it from the bottom then removing fan clutch is not needed ?
You will need at least a 3/8″ drive socket set. However, a 1/2″ drive set
would be better, especially for detensioning the tensioner. The socket used
for the detensioning in the video is 17mm. However, different models may
have different sizes.
nice and clean, thank you so much
is this same way for a m50b20 bmw engine?
Would i be able to use any socket wrench set? And if you can please, what
size socket exactly for the tensioner?
Thanks Saved me $300 from having to take it to the dealer! On my E60.
How would you do this for a R56 MINI cooper S? My mechanic said it would be
$500 or something ridiculous because he would have to move the turbo
Thanks for this video, its been really useful.
Very useful video. Quick question since i only know little to nothing about
my 00′ bmw e46. My car started to sound like cramp coming from under the
hood for about 2 months now. Some says it was the tension and the belt? if
so, should i continuing driving it like that for a while or should i get it
check out?
What is the difference between a idler pulley and a drive belt tensioner
roller
@fenceposter – Thank you for the kind words!
@aLex0kain – Your M52 2.5 liter engine uses two belts … one for the A/C
and one for the water pump, alternator and power steering. Both belts are
of the serpentine type. Just go to our web site – bavauto dot com – and
enter your BMW model, then search either BELT or SERPENTINE. We’ll show you
the correct belts for your model.
This is an exceleent video well done. I love your gloves where can I some a
pair?
As noted in the video, you do not need to remove the radiator (or the
hoses) in order to replace the belts and the pulleys. We removed them so
that we could get a better view of the belts and pulleys with the video
camera. We would normally only remove the fan and the fan shroud.
@rdcate Unfortunately, your car could have either system. You will need to
make a visual inspection.
You may have a vacuum leak in the intake system. This could be any of the
intake boots, bellows, hoses, etc., or the crankcase ventilation oil
separator and check valve. The leakage could also be in the fuel tank vent
system. Obviously, without being there to diagnose it, there are certainly
other possibilities. Have you gotten under the hood to try to localize the
sound, when it happens? This should really be the next step. Feel free to
call us at 800-535-2002, for further assistance.
it is 3.0si
@Kjhuynhz – If you remove the two belts, one at a time (A/C first, then
Main), and the sound goes away after removing one of the belts, replace
that belt and the pulleys for it (or both belts and all pulleys). If the
sound remains, it is not from the belts and we will have to diagnose
further. It may be a vacuum leak (if it sounds like a squeal or whistle),
which may be in the crankcase ventilation system. See our videos and blog
posts for M52TU & M54 PCV system. BLOG dot BAVAUTO dot COM.
Great video! You make it look very simple to replace my serpentine belts
and pulleys. My 1998 E39 528i uses a hydraulic tensioner for the Air
Conditioning serpentine belt, and the piston pulls out of the tensioner
assembly, when I remove the belt. Do you have a tip I can use, such as
using a plastic tie wrap to keep it from extending itself too far?
You shouldn’t have any specific trouble in de-tensioning the belt by
rotating the tensioner pulley against the tensioner. Once the pulley is
rotated, pull the belt off of one of the pulleys and then release the
pulley.
great video sir… very helpful. will be doing this to my 93 e36 325is very
soon. thank you..
thanks for the video!
Thanks for your notes. There are indeed, differences between specific
engine models, in placement and use of idler pulleys as well as the
differences in mechanical vs hydraulic tensioners.
You have the N52 engine. This is a different engine (M54 is shown) and the
belt routing will be different, but the basic procedures will be similar.
Will these steps work on a 1995 740il
Is this Belt removal the same for a M50 motor?
It may be “fine” as long as it is under compression (installed). But you
should plan on a replacement.
The main belt drives the water pump, alternator and power steering pump.
The air conditioning compressor is on the smaller secondary belt.
@chicoloco101 – While you may or may not “need” a new tensioner or idler
pulley, it would certainly be wise to replace all of the pulleys. This will
assure that you do not have a pulley failure at some point after replacing
the belts. A faulty pulley can cause an annoying squeal and eventually will
seize or come apart. This will result in loss of and damage to the belts
…. as well as a full vehicle failure as the water pump and alternator
will no longer be operating.
At 2:25 I call BULL ISH!! I see they cut and edit the clip. Just a hammer
will not get that fan off. Have to use some break free and let it soak for
like 10 minutes. I know, I know, i’m not mad. Just saying that part is
usually difficult. Be sure to put anti-sieze on the fan clutch nut so its
easier next time when installing. EXCELLENT video though.
wow you just saved me a lot of money, thank you so much