http://www.AutoWerksofAmerica.com/ A BMW radiator isn’t terribly hard to replace. While You’re replacing the radiator you should consider upgrading other BMW…
http://www.AutoWerksofAmerica.com/ A BMW radiator isn’t terribly hard to replace. While You’re replacing the radiator you should consider upgrading other BMW…
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hi there,, I have 1999 BMW 323i
my front crankshaft seal is leaking. Im planning to replace that seal. My
question is how I can remove my front crankshaft pulley and how I can
install back? its keep spin. what kind of tools I should use? thank you
If you have an E46, CHANGE THE COOLANT SYSTEM! The res-Tank WILL blow a
seam & the results can be catastrophic to your engine. They have
replacement kits online for under $200. WELL WORTH IT! Also, if you’re over
100k miles, replace the ValveCoverGasket/Spark Plugs & wires. WORLD of
difference!
fuck that plastic thermostat housing bull
4:36 drew a dick
@luckyboy13 I had no trouble with sealing using new parts. The water pump
and t’stat had new O-rings. The t’stat housing had a new seal. Buy a new
seal if you’re using the old housing. CLEANING: I used a wire brush,
sometimes on a rotary tool. Plug the area with a lint-free rag. PITTING:
Can’t be fixed, but a good mechanic can check for electrolysis.The
NEWSLETTER from our site offers exclusive video and occasional DIY tips.
Thanks again for writing
You can leave the excess water in the expansion tank while you “burp” the
system.
sweet good info
How much is the Behr for a 99 323i? How long to do the replacement?
Another gr8 video,keep it up!Respect from another side of planet,from
Serbia!
I really need to know where the thermostat is on a E60 or 2006 BMW 530xi..I
need to replace it but i cant even find it…any videos???
@lowgunit We sometimes wonder if people think that we’re a repair shop.
We’re not. We work on our own cars and capture it on video for other DIY
folks. Sometimes we’re working in adverse conditions and time constraints.
We’re not trained mechanics, but we’re great at supplying parts.
“Like the thermostat housing, the waterpump might need a little bit of
coaxing as well”. I’m amazed so little people know the trick to not pry it
out, possibly damaging the block. As can clearly be seen in this vid just
before the pump is pulled, you can see a hole between the top and lower
mount. This is a 5mm threaded hole. If the waterpump is stuck, simply screw
in a 5mm (allen) bolt and this way the waterpump will push itself out of
the block. There 2 or 3 of these threaded holes.
PS: For your information, the waterpump HAS already been replaced, and
after a drive of about 20 minutes the next message comes up: “>
Kühlwassertemperatur <". The analog meter goes into the red zone and and it seems, that when I speed up a bit, or drive faster (let's say approx 30 to 50 miles per hour) it seems the analog meter goes back to the middle (which is normal). The cluster messages still appear and there's absolutely NO leaks underneath the car. But I have to keep filling more coolant.
Hi Tom, my bmw 320i e36 has the rear wheels wearing on the inside and the
wheels are also slanting inwards at the top. What could be the problem?
Cheers.
cap should be lose or not? Because lot of my friends sad it should be lose
but if i keep it lose coolant just goes through it…
Explanation short & sharp, easy to understand. Double thumbs up to you..
Thank you very much
how long would this take on average?
@BeYourDreamTEAM – 1st, Yes we sell those parts. The pump and valve are
listed under the “Air Intake” category on our site. (YouTube will not let
me put links in comments). We also have a fault analysis guide for these
codes posted here on the site. Just add “/article/resources/secondary air
system failure.pdf” to our site address in your browser. VEMO is a European
manufacturer of OEM & replacement parts, APA/URO is a quality replacement
part manufacturer only. Both have a good reputation.
I think your engine code is a US spec S50B30 vanos
The shocks are new, any other thing that could be the matter?
Any car that is stored or left without coolant for an extended period of
time is subject to corrosion in the cooling system. If your cooling system
is intact, it should really always have water AND coolant in it.
Bought a Graf pump with metal impeller about one year ago to do the water
pump upgrade. Also changed both belts and did the aluminum thermostat
housing upgrade and aluminum pulley upgrade. Had to buy the 32mm wrench and
spanner tool. Took me about four hours since I’d never done it before and I
was taking my time. These are really essential upgrades/maintenance to do
if you purchase a used E36.
I recently replaced the radiator on my 98 M3 with 91K miles on it. This
along with the thermostat has been replaced in the last 1 year. I’m going
to replace the fan clutch, belt and the water pump in the next one month. I
was wondering whether it is possible to remove & replace the water pump
without removing the radiator (after the shroud and the fan has been
removed)? Thanks in advance, appreciate your videos.
Be sure to remove the plastic screw next to the filler cap as you fill the
radiator (10:33) and check the level (at the radiator filler cap-be careful
as the fluid will be under pressure) after running the car for a little
while. If this does not solve the problem, we suggest you take the car to a
local professional technician for further troubleshooting.
Is the radiator fan tool absolutely necessary to replacing the radiator? I
don’t want to spend an extra $20 if I don’t have to.
Great video, thanks for uploading.
@artisstik The fan tool might not be necessary. Many times you can get away
with simply using the wrench and giving it a smack with a hammer. The risk
with that approach is that you can inadvertently hit something unintended.
There are times, however, when the nut is more stubborn and the special
tool becomes necessary. One approach would be to try it without the special
tool before you get too deep into the project. By the way, what are you
replacing? Water pump? Hoses? Fan clutch?
@lowgunit You caught our blooper – well done! With umpteen video takes the
belt did indeed get routed incorrectly on at least one of them. Although
the belt was subsequently corrected, the error ended up in the video.
Thanks for catching it.
This looks like an M52 engine. What is the last 7 digits of your chassis
number, I’d like to check it out on my system. Thanks.
Depends whether you want ot keep OEM style plastic tanks or upgrade to
metal tanks (on the sides of the radiator) We sell OEM, Metrix & Behr
radiators with the OEM style tanks. We recommend the Behr. We also sell the
Mishimoto metal radiator, which lists for $340. Our price is $248.20.
Contact us for more information.
Thanks for the video. It helped me a lot. Do you recommend using RTV
sealant on the face of the flange , when upgrading to aluminyum thermostat
housing ? Thanks.
@BeYourDreamTEAM Unless your radiator is leaking or clogged, I’d replace
the water pump and thermostat first. Both of these components are
mechanical in nature and are subject wear and sticking (thermostat). eBay
is a crap shoot. I’ve bought good parts there and I’ve bought bad parts
there. From what I could see, the radiators offered there all seem to have
aluminum side tanks-a good thing, vs the OEM-style plastic tanks on ours.
how come i didnt see you put back on the belts. -_- i was looking forward
to seeing how you done it.
Ok thanks a lot my friend u guys are the best
Yes it does. It is harder to reach the plug, but it is possible to do this
on the ground. In the video, we just used a set of jack stands and raised
the car about 12- 14″. Once this was done, the process was easy. You can
buy jack stands at any local auto parts store, Wal-Mart, Sears, or Harbor
Freight Tools. We sell Race Ramps which allow to raise the car without a
jack. See autowerksofamerica com/product/raceramps/race-ramps.htm
Hi, on my 1993 325is when you turn on the air conditioner, is the auxiliary
fan suppose to come on automatically, in specially when hot weather?
Thank you for taking the time to do the video. Very helpful!
Sure, the Stewart pump for your car is available by special order from us
at AutoWerksofAmerica com for $175.00 (includes free shipping to the lower
48). To order, contact us at sales@autowerksofamerica com.
@INDYTECHbmwMASTER Wrong. See photos of the car at M3Pilot.com
I dont have the means to get the car in the air, can I use the Preston
radiator flush kit?
Do you have any video on 7 series or 8 series v12 engine m73n. About
cooling?? Kinda looking upgraded parts as well.
Great vid! I have a 94 325i and I filled the tank way past the cold line,
then I drove the car and the upper radiator hose blew off. Is that because
I added too much water and there was too much pressure in the system?
Thanks for any help to can give me!!! Jason
… what’s most crucial for me to fix up / upgrade? I also found a radiator
on another site (ebay) for a great sale price. How does theirs compare to
your site? I really like your site’s pricing too. But it is more for that
item. Thanks for giving free shipping over $75. Well… if I only can
upgrade or fix one or the other? Which components do you suggest to fix
first? Water pump with thermostat and housing, or radiator? How much is a
fair rate to pay someone for doing the labor? Thank u 4 info
Reply from the M3 owner/video guy: I only work on my own cars but I had a
’96 328 at one time. Many years ago I replaced the water pump but not the
radiator. I don’t remember, however if I had to MOVE the radiator. My hunch
is that I I did NOT move the radiator. Sorry I can’t be more helpful than
that. Out of curiosity, are you going to use an OEM unit? Aftermarket?
Either way, we’d love to help you out.
It’s possible that the gasket is the problem. However, what you replace
depends on where it is leaking from and whether the pump is original or
not. If it is leaking around the housing, it could be a gasket. If at the
nose (at the input shaft), its definitely the pump. If you still have the
original 14 yr-old pump with composite impeller, I wouldn’t risk changing
only the gasket. A new pump is only $65-$75 at our site and is well worth
the money-since you’ll do the same labor either way.
I just got a BMW 1999 M3 Convertible. 164k miles on it. Runs seemingly
well. The thing is… I need to do some upgrades and fixes. I really am
thankful for your video as I will show this to a mechanical friend or a
shop to show them what I would like have done. Another thing is, my Air
Conditioner was working just 2 days ago when I bought it. It ended up not
working just yesterday. When I start my car, it says (half visually) minus
coolent 32% something and see coolent in car manual. What’s…
The thermostat is inside the thermostat housing which is plainly visible
above the fan/water pump once you remove the top plastic cover. If you have
the original factory thermostat housing it should be black plastic. You
should replace it with an inexpensive aluminum housing from Pelican Parts
or elsewhere if you’re replacing the thermostat. Easy job. Take out the
bolts holding the thermostat housing on and pull off the housing. The
thermostat is seated in the hole behind the housing.
@lowgunit I’m glad you were able to solve the problem,
It must be loose to allow air to come out of it. Air inside the radiator
lines is BAD.