BMW E46 Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

BMW E46 Front Lower Control Arm Replacement

Replacing these parts did get rid of my squeaking noise when I turned to the right.

Remember to check out: http://www.oembimmerparts.com

These are the OEM control arms that I installed: https://www.oembimmerparts.com/BMW-Front-Control-Arm-OEM-p/31126777851-852e46.htm

My mailing address for correspondence or swag of any kind is on my about page.

This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.

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Donald Whiteman says:

I would've used spit . hey it works too! what kind of impact is that, iwant to invest in 1? please thank you!

Scott Moff says:

On the passenger side, remove that 10 mm bolt that holds the PS lines. It gives you a little more room.

ThisIsSolution says:

LoLz

The rust issue turns this job into a nightmare, get out the grinders, cutoff wheels, torches and voodoo dolls

steve goosney says:

When I turn the wheels by hand, like Jason did at 11:45… power steering fluid shoots out the reservoir cap hole…. anyone know why this happens? Thanks! Steve

T Bone says:

Thanks for posting. I am getting ready to do this job and its great to have a good video to learn before I do.

Abner M says:

My subframe bushing bolt spins with the 21mm nut. The allen end of the bolt has too much play to securely hold down the bolt in place to then turn the nut. Any advice?

fakiirification says:

this looks like a job for a big air hammer.

Grimm Reaper says:

Thanks for the Videos. I just want to say a couple things on this job. First off because i am cheap i ordered after market control arms and mine didn't come with the hole drilled in it for the adaptive lights so that's something to watch for when ordering the part. Also i used a ball joint fork to separate the control arm instead of bashing it with a hammer it's works well and seemed a lot easier then the heavy hammer smash. I will be doing the drivers side on Sunday and hoping once that's done the wheel alignment is closer to where it should be because after only doing one side it looks way off.

שי אבער says:

Dude shut the fuck up and do youre job all the video is facking you dig in my mind what so hard to repalace control arm

James kelleher says:

From the beginning it sounds you just need to grease your ball jointd

J Beable1 says:

Can you work on my E46 2004 205K ? it needs stuff just do want to put the money into it,

mydejavooo says:

Dang…12 minutes in before you start showing anything?

David Kotzebue says:

For what it's worth – I found it easier to install the bushing to the control arm while off the car and on a work bench.

J D says:

Will the car need a realignment after doing this job?

Sondang Siregar says:

Hi Jason thanks for the video. I learn how to do the right thing about replacement the lower control arm.

dangdude says:

Thanks much for these videos, they are great!

A couple hints for those doing this job–for outer control arm joints, use a 12" 3/8" extension on the nut on the top of the ball joint and swing a sledge straight down to bang it loose. If you're going to use a sledge like this video, I suggest also using a prybar to add some tension to give the shock some direction when swinging the sledge instead of relying on gravity.
Another quick trick–instead of using an allen wrench when tightening up the new ball joints, use a $20 cheap jack to apply a little pressure to the bottom of the control arm to wedge the ball joint, which is chamfered and will grab when forced in, into the knuckle hole to keep it from the turning. You can then use a socket or impact gun to tighten the nut instead of a wrench.
One more–shove the control arm bushings onto the arms before installing the arms. You can use your weight to push them onto the arms. In the e30/36 days you couldn't do this but now that the CABs have a hex hole for alignment, just mount them at the same angle the old ones are at.

Just did my oil filter manifold gasket and CCV at the same time referring to your vids. Removing the filter manifold gave a little more room for the CCV vs. doing the two jobs separately.

John Forbes says:

I am in PA and all I can say is rust… No way I could do any of that as easy in PA. I am really jealous.

pete b says:

I've found OEMBIMMERPARTS to be pretty good. Have used them several times in the past and have in fact bought a pair of lower control arms a few weeks ago. Good selection of suppliers and the price is right too.

chris bmw man says:

i just done the control arm bushes and what a basterd they was to get off

syd bell says:

Will not putting socket on wheel nut,with car on ground, and moving socket back and forth show it up ?? And does it pull to the side which has gone,on braking ?
As for hitting wheel speed sensor, l would tape a couple of thick washers over it.

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