BMW E46 DIY Rear coil spring replacement 3 series

BMW E46 DIY Rear coil spring replacement 3 series

All steps included in this repair 320d 2004 Sedan model.

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BMW 3 Series says:

Thats right. Since I don’t work underneath the car I don’t use the axle stands.
If I have to work under the car, I drive to a DIY shop with a lift that can move the car 1.8 m up.
My lift has never lef me down under the many repairs I have done. If it should fail, it might scratch the buttom of the car a bit and give me unpleasent surpirce.
If I had to work underneath a car I would not trust in a couple of axle stands either.

dragythuno says:

great video but cannot believe you did this without axle stands and make a tutorial which basically shows you the car supported by an ill fitting jack

ThirstBloodPS3 says:

Just followed these instructions for my 2002 325 E46 Saloon. Works perfectly. If youre like me and havent had this job done before it may be worth getting an impact socket to release the bolt on the shock absorber. Just a few taps with a hammer should loosen it off enough to get it moving.

BMW 3 Series says:

No it’s not harmfull at all. The force from the OEM jack is only minor. Possible 60 Kg / 120 pound.
This technique is also working on your car

yuyan zhan says:

Is that harmful for the axle as you use jack to force open the room for spring? My car is a little bit old—1998 323is, and my rear springs are broken. Do you think it is ok to do the same thing? Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated! Thank you!

armenchik619 says:

Great tutorial! Love to see the front springs being changed as well

3ridetec . says:

My ride height is also slightly different on the back I don’t know why though.

Kim Mehta says:

Changing coil spring in E$^ BMW is very useful. I like to know information on the jack that is used to push down the axle. It is blue jack “V” type. It spreads and pushes the axle down as the jack handle is turned clockwise. I like to get Manufacturer’s name, and where it can be purchased.

vic10h says:

Would this work for my 1994 318is ??

vic10h says:

Charles b.m you need to change both since one is new and the other one is used already

Charles B. M says:

I changed my rear springs but one side sits slightly higher then the other… What could be the cause of that?

BMWPOWER4U says:

The E46 looks much more robust than the E36 IMHO. I would put in the Signature Motoring performance intake kit for only around $150 and gain up to 13HP on the stock output for the 330i and a bit less for the 325 and 328. I highly recommend this item, see my youtube channel for the action video on it.

-Installs in round 45min.
-Guaranteed HP increase
-Induction sound to die for
-Awesome fit/finish.

See my video of how it sounds AND performs!

Dave Maack says:

god damn you made that look so easy lol.

BMW 3 Series says:

Not the same.
I will show how its done in spring 2013. I know I have to replace both front shock absorbers which is the same as replacing the springs

cyth0n says:

Would you do the same procedure to replace the front springs?

BMW 3 Series says:

Only if the rubber pads are worn out

Kev O. says:

Would old springs cause a squeaky sound going over bumps? I recently replaced my shocks.

BMWPOWERization says:

I love my 328i. Only mod is a Signature Motoring performance intake kit. They run around $170 and add up to 9HP in the E46 323/325/328 and up to 13.9HP in the 330. That’s about $17/per extra HP… A good value for the extra oomph. General HP increases are shown:

E30 series: 6.0-13.4hp gain
E36 series: 5.5-12hp gain
E46 series: 6.0-13.9hp gain
E92 series: 8.5+ hp gain
Z3/Z4 (all): 5.5-13.9hp gain

See my channel videos for action!

BMW 3 Series says:

Same for both sides.
Try use some spray to loosen up the bolts. Mine was that eays to unbolt
as you see in the video

joshua767 says:

is it the same for the other side where you would be pushing the shock up to loosen the bolt? cant get my bolts to crack off, there in solid

TheMasterchef89 says:

absolutely genius

BMW 3 Series says:

Yes BMW TIS or Bentley repair manual tells you to disconnect the axle ect. but this method is much faster and it works. Ive seen several other who uses this method (so its not my invention)

ucfsub says:

Same exact break as mine, even indentical in the hooked shape at the break point. My repair manual is telling me to disconnect the axle from the diff to do this repair, but your way is much quicker.

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