I began my rebuild when I did a compression test and noticed I had poor compression in cylinders 2-6 (about 142 psi, the bottom of the service limit). Cylinder 1 had 160 psi. A leakdown test showed leakage into each adjacent cylinder. Of course my engine also had the oil consumption problem (1 quart every 1000 miles) that every M54 engine has, which is caused by the oil rings which wear down prematurely (the M52TU used different oil rings which did not have this problem). There was also coolant loss, which I didn’t measure precisely.
To see all the videos in the #m54rebuild series: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLqJG4ZyPIF6OflXtgLWJOFdsiuc-UrZJX
To view all the specs and torques for BMW M54/M52TU engines: https://goo.gl/jLvcgR
This video is for entertainment purposes only. 50sKid assumes no liability for any repairs or modifications performed by the viewer as a result of the information contained in this video.
){kind=link}
Hey 50s kid. Better late than never. But what's your advice on the break in period? Did you use factory specific oil (synthetic 5w 30) also when can one go WOT. Some say if you don't redline early you dont get full engine potential and others the opposite. Whats best for break in period for piston rings and all? Thanks
Perfect vídeo.
Please help… this may sound stupid but my first 4 head bolts are T55 instead of E12. I'm so confused.
Did you not have to use a sealing compound like 3 Bond 1209 on the block before assembling? Or don’t you need to?
Hi @50sKid could you write down those bolts torque size in newton
U are a legend lad, ur chanel is the best!!
You are very great and helpful!
Hi can you give me your instragram or Facebook account thanks?
If there's anyone out there, i have the same lifters and one on the intake valves side messed up, I already bought a replacement but it looks the same as the one on the exhaust side. Is it safe to use it on the intake side?
….I know u mean good "but torqing the engine bolts 1234 in that sequence is going to place improper pressure on drive shaft….do ends first ….then work your way in……."Look the Germans they know what there doing…….anyway I actually enjoy ur vids…..I'm only getting into Michanics now
You can use a small hone to remove the ridges. Install a flat washer in the bore to protect the lower raised edges, and you're good to go..
Hi 50skid have a question to ask you, I have 2000 323i bmw and first the water pump gave up n I change it and than I change hoses, temperature sensors n than the clutch fan too, radiator n reservoir almost all the cooling system I bleed the car too n still over heats. Why is still overheating? Can u guide me please i have my car park for almost a year n a few months now n I wanna fix it to drive it. Please I'll appreciate it.
The tips are awesome thanks 50s kid!
I am watching you from first night
@50sKid. Another trick for deep cleaning your hydraulic lifters is to invest in a cheap ultrasonic cleaner. Put your preferred cleaner in, the lifter and set it for 3-5 minutes, then blow out with air. It should do the trick without having to take the assembly apart!
I use the dish washer to clean my engine parts. Cascae works best. Cleans the Aluminum nice, My cam trays look new.
Ya bunun turkcesi yokmu