http://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/ ▻ Mike is back and bring his M&M shop knowledge to you with a walk-through of all the steps to replace the front brakes on …
http://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/ ▻ Mike is back and bring his M&M shop knowledge to you with a walk-through of all the steps to replace the front brakes on …
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Check your BMW’s brakes regularly & replace them as they begin to show
signs of wear, we’ll walk you through it: http://ow.ly/tBmEQ
hes good to watch
Do you recommend anti-seize compound on 1) mounting bracket bolts, 2) the
hex screws for sliders, 3) screw securing rotor to hub? I plan to use
torque wrench, but heard that the anti-seize changes torque requirement.
What grease product do you use? (I heard some not good for slider boots.)
Great video. Really appreciate it.
Like I promised, more brake videos, but today we’re off of Audi and moving
to BMW:
You have any advice on how to get those caliper bracket bolts off? The
bolts on my 325xi are completely seized! PB Blasted to the extreme and let
them soak with progressively harder taps with a hammer! Nothing. I read
heating it up will work, that, and heating up and put a candle on it to
soak in the threads? ..or, use a jack to push up (in correct direction) on
the socket wrench till it gives? Safe? Please help.
Send $50,000 to FCP in unmarked bills and we won’t. I kid, I kid.
Great video and well done explanations! I’ll have to try this myself soon.
great video, gona do my first bmw brake job, but is it really necessary to
change out the rotors?? ive done lota domestic brake jobs and usually dont
have to replace rotors, at times i have them turned….thanks
Hey Mike! You said if the system looks too full you will carefully remove
if it’s necessary.How can you check the system if its too full or not?
Thanks
Same exact procedure, different rotor size and caliper, but that shouldn’t
affect anything seen in the video. Hope that helps!
Excellent, informative, and well-shot video! I have a 2006 525i and the job
is identical to the video instructions that you have posted. Keep up the
GREAT videos.
I hope guys u will never delete your account on youtubeXD
So much bad practice here. Firstly, don’t hang the calipers of the break
hoses, use a bit of string to support them. The caliper may not fall to the
ground immediately but you may strain the hoses causing leaks. Secondly,
use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts up, these guys may think they know
how tight a bolt should feel, but one mans idea of f’in tight might be
different to another guy. Over tightening a bolt is just as bad as under
tightening as you take the metal past it’s elasticity poi
Excellent! Thank you for taking the time out to video this Mike. You make
it look too easy. What about the bleeder don’t you have to crack it to
prevent the back flow of the fluid into the abs system?
Okay, I went ahead and bought the sensors. They were $28 for both, so yeah,
you were right. Very reasonable price for a little added assurance.
Finished up my front today,I’ll be doing the rears tomorrow. I’m guessing
they’re virtually the same? Except the sensor is on the right hand side of
the vehicle on the rear.
Do u have to replace rotors when u change brake pads? My sensor shows me
that I have negative 50.
Very well spoken, good directions. Not overbearing and annoying like some
other diy vids on youtube full of plugs, ads and non-sense. Helped me
perfectly. Thank you very much for the video!
You will have to remove the caliper and rotor as an assembly with the brake
line removed from the chassis to separate both off the car. Then you will
have to replace both the rotor and caliper and bleed the system with
replacements installed. It’s a little different but not much more
difficult. Hope that helps.
Anti Seize creates friction, grease reduces it. So use Anti Seize only on
bolts and other parts that are to remain stationary, grease on parts like
the sliders that will be moving. Squeal silencer won’t hurt but you should
only use it where the pad comes into contact with the caliper, not the
rotor unless otherwise directed by the product you’ve bought. As far as
cleaning the rotors it depends if they’re zinc coated or not, coated don’t
clean non coated you should clean before installing.
That’s definitely good advice, thanks!
It’s a similar set up however that model and trim was never offered here in
the states so I can not confirm our parts will fit it. I would need you to
track down the OEM part numbers through a local dealer so I could cross
reference what works and what doesn’t. If you want some help feel free to
give us a call at 877-634-0063.
Glad we could help!
It’s fairly unlikely it will back flow, but you are correct, cracking the
bleeder or the brake fluid filler cap would prevent excess pressure from
building up, it’s definitely not a bad idea.
It’s generally not a good idea to go with out replacing the sensors as
well, as you do not know how close you were to tripping the light and
causing a problem. Additionally, the cost of getting those as well is
hardly worth going without them. Hope that helps!
Hey Mike! Someone mention about be careful don’t let the air in. Is that
true? Is there anything I should be cautionary in term of open the
reservoir? I think I need to change all my brakes, so I think I should open
the reservoir to prevent the overflow. Also is there any brakes you would
recommend or should I go buy the bmw brakes from the dealer? Because I went
to an auto shop they told me I should go buy the bmw brakes because the
outer market brakes are not good as the bmw brakes. Thanks!!!
Excellent video! A couple of things though. There is only 1 sensor in the
front, on the drivers side. The bracket bolts were 16mm not 19 as stated. I
also had to reset the service interval warning to get the dashboard error
to quiet.
Thanks! One more question, where should I use Anti Sieze vs. Grease? Also,
I have heard to use Noise Free Brake Squeal Silencer on the inner pads next
to the rotor…can you confirm? I am also replacing the Rotors and I have
heard they need to be cleaned with a cleaner to remove all protecting coat
the manufactur (I bought Bavarian Autosports brand) puts on the
rotors…can you confirm this as well? Thanks again!
Just look at the reservoir, if it looks very full, you may overflow as you
start pushing caliper pistons in. Especially if you’re doing a full set of
brakes. Hope that helps!
I had a other vehicle with a abs pump and the pump valve got all jammed up
because the valve inside got pushed when I pushed the caliper piston in
without cracking the bleeder. I see that you are very experienced in this
and I appreciate you very much. In all of the BMW brake jobs you do let me
ask you do you ever crack the bleeder? I would hate to let air get into the
brake system.
Excellent vid. The instruction, proceedures, tools required are clear. It
would be nice if you have one similar for a 2008 535i E60 series. Great
job! Thank you.