How to Replace Engine Mounts on a B7 Audi A4

How to Replace Engine Mounts on a B7 Audi A4

Today we replaced the engine mounts in our B7 Audi A4. The old engine mounts had failed and were leaking hydraulic fluid. This DIY is more advanced and should be done under your caution. If you are not comfortable doing this job, bring your car to a professional / contact our repair shop DAP Repair or another shop, to have someone install it.

Links Talked about in this video

Engine Mount (Passenger) Right – OEM
https://www.shopdap.com/8e0-199-382-aj.html

Engine Mount (Drivers) Left – OEM
https://www.shopdap.com/8e0-199-379-bh.html

Engine Mount (Drivers) Left – Aftermarket
https://www.shopdap.com/engine-mount-drivers-left-8e0199379bh.html

Engine Mount (Passenger) Right – Aftermarket
https://www.shopdap.com/engine-mount-passenger-right.html

Why is this Clean B7 Audi A4 $1500?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yet3wk4LI8&t

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This Video was shot at our VW and Audi Specialty Shop
DAP Repair
10308 Bailey Rd
Suite 408
Cornelius NC 28031
https://goo.gl/maps/emANaqp9dMk
—————————————————-
Shop for VW and Audi Parts Here
http://shopdap.com

Check out our VW/Audi Shop located in Cornelius NC
https://www.daprepair.com/

More info on DAP Reward Credit
https://shopdap.com/store/rewardpoints/index/policy/

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Comments

alan thomson says:

Can some one point me in the right direction for the 2 mounts on mine . Its a audi a4 b7 19 tdi 5 speed 56 plate thanks . They look the same as the ones in the video but not sure thanks

J.D. Chapman says:

It would have been nice to see that locator nub orientation after the mounts were slipped in. There's more than one hole for it, and to see which it goes in correctly would be nice.

Furious says:

Wow, that's something I'm never, ever going to ever do, whatsoever. Ever.

joe ph says:

Passenger side is a fcker. I cut my 13mm to 1.5" long, so i can get the bolt off by the top. It will allow you to move the 13mm bit by bit and get the nut out. Same process to put it back, use lockthread since you wont be able to torque it like oem spec

Bee Shopcs says:

that is why dealer cost 5H x 100$

Steven Giouras says:

What was the total time, start to finish? If you're doing it on your back, in your driveway, double it. Triple it, even.

Jordy Worley says:

Can you make a video on replacing or resealing the valve cover? I’m having oil leak in spark plug hole

Local Urban says:

Help! I’m having this annoying noise with my Audi A6 c7 2.0 … I have this wind noise coming from the front end while i drive at low speed. Help a brother out !

fastboatster says:

Don't really look much like b8 mounts. They do look somewhat similar in style to BMW engine mounts

Elimentus says:

It's actually a lot simpler than that, I did mine just this past fall. On the B6/7 platform, and maybe others, the front subframe position is actually how you align your wheels so I'd avoid removing those bolts unless you plan on getting an alignment.

I loosed up my snub mount pocket, then undid the nut on the top & bottom of one mount. Lifted the engine with a hoist (could use a jack and a piece of wood from underneath) and pulled the mount out and inserted the new one. Lower the engine, tighten the nuts on the new mount, and loosen them on the other mount. Lift the engine again, remove the old mount, install the new one, and torque it all to spec. Took me less than 30 minutes to do the first time.

The top nut on the passenger side (under the turbo) is tricky, but it is accessible from underneath and behind the mount. Also be careful not to lift the engine too high or you could hit the firewall and break stuff.

Benny says:

Are all manufacturers so brain dead that they make repairs near on impossible these days? Great video by the way and really nicely explained – thanks.

Andrew Willis says:

Dude just bought some and was like what's the best way to do it

Gabe Monzo says:

I was able to get at that top nut on the passenger side from the top with a stubby racheting box end. Barely enough room beside the turbo to get a couple fingers on it but it worked. Loosened subframe bolts without removing completely and lifted the engine slightly as opposed to dropping it to get the mounts out. Forgot to check the locating pin position on one side before I removed the old mount and had to guess where it goes. Still paranoid I got it wrong 6 months later.

Hitman says:

all the bolts on the subframe doesnt have to come out. remove the 2 short bolts on each side and just loosen the long bolt down enough to slide the mounts out. you really dont wanna deal with realigning the subframe later. It will crook the alignment

Hitman says:

no offense but you guys need to improve your website. Its looks straight out of 1 st generation internet. Its not good as your videos or the nerd in these videos

scirockalot8v says:

Re-using those bolts huh?

Serban C. Musca says:

Very nice and professional! I would've sworn quite a lot more doing this 😉

07HDDriver says:

What a PITA!

Brownkid says:

First! Great job on the videos and content guys, topNotch!

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