http://www.fcpeuro.com/Audi-parts/ ▻ Mike from M&M Motors in Clinton, CT is knowledgeable and kind enough to walk us through the steps to replace the lower c…
http://www.fcpeuro.com/Audi-parts/ ▻ Mike from M&M Motors in Clinton, CT is knowledgeable and kind enough to walk us through the steps to replace the lower c…
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You’re correct, the final tightening the bolts should be done at curb weight. We didn’t show it in this video but we do address it in others.
Why didn’t he load up the suspension before tightening everything down? Those bushings are going to tear in 3 months.
Great job, now I can work on my V6 VW Passat, thanks.
I hope they pay you good. Your one of the best mechanics I have seen!
You can absolutely do this on stands, sometimes it’s just easier to film with a lift.
Will this method work with the car suspended on floor jacks? We dont have a lift. like this at home. lol
Yes, almost identical.
the exchange is the same as the VW Passat 2004?
where can I buy a standing stand ?
As long as you’ve taken the nut off the joint, you’re all set to move to a bigger hammer. A little heat from a heat gun might not hurt either.
Hi.Great guide.My lower inner ball joint does not want to come out.Will the hammer trick do it?
Yeah it got a little tight there, sliding the washer forward would have helped.
When you are putting in the bolt @06:10, couldn’t you slide the washer to the front of the bolt and avoid hammering the thing? Looks like its jammed to the underside of the car!
These bolts were torqued safely at ride height, but not on the ground.
So how were the bolts torqued down with the car on the ground?
very thorough and quite helpful!
Thank you!
It’s a good idea to get an alignment after any suspension work as the new parts won’t settle in exactly the same spot as your worn ones. Hope that helps!
DO i need to do alignment on the car after installing new control arms and Tie rod assembly
It’s literally the same procedure on a Passat, no need to lower the subframe. If hammering the joint doesn’t work you can try a ball joint separator, I’ve put the link to one in the description. Hope that helps!
Hey thanks for the great tutorial. Will the directions work for a VW Passat? Seems the suspension design is the same/similar.
Does hammering on the side of the ball joint housing pretty much always work? Since my car is a 1999 with 170 k miles I am worried that the ball joint neck will be stuck in the housing and require a puller.
Read online that inner bolt requires lowering the subframe or cutting the bolt, you just wiggled the control arm to angle it out, does this work on the Passat?
I’m replacing my front struts on my 99 A6. Anyway, the BentleyPubs shop manual notes that the bolt for attaching the strut to the lower control arm is a “one to use bolt”. I paid note that you did replace all of the other bolts/nuts. Now I think, because the load on the bolt would be along the edge of the bolt and not on the thread/fastener you’d be OK with reusing this bolt. I did not see the green tint on that bolt, indicating it was self-locking so maybe the manual is incorrect??
I’m replacing my front struts on my 99 A6. Anyway, the BentleyPubs shop manual notes that the bolt for attaching the strut to the lower control arm is a “one to use bolt”. I paid note that you did replace all of the other bolts/nuts. Now I think, because the load on the bolt would be along the edge of the bolt and not on the thread/fastener you’d be OK with reusing this bolt. I did not see the green tint on that bolt, indicating it was self-locking so maybe the manual is incorrect??
Thanks for putting this together! It really helped me with a few little German kinks I was unsure about 🙂
Yes, you’re correct, the final tightening the bolts should be done at curb weight
Shouldn’t the final tightening of the strut and inner control arm bolts be done after the car is on the ground (so the bushings are not stressed)?
Great vid! However, I think you guys should make a new vid tightening/torquing the Lower Control Arms & Sway Bar Links to the subframe at static curb weight!!! If anyone does this w/o raising each side to static curb weight, the bushings are going to wear prematurely!!! New vid using proper procedure for torquing, else I’d recommend adding a disclaimer to this one. Other then that, great vid guys! Helped me out a bit with my 1st CA/TRE kit install! 🙂