How To Diagnose and Replace a Rear Caliper Using an Infrared Thermometer shows how to use an infrared thermometer to find a bad caliper. This method will also work on front calipers as well….
How To Diagnose and Replace a Rear Caliper Using an Infrared Thermometer -EricTheCarGuy
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If you guessed ‘diagnosing brake problems’ yesterday, you were correct. How
To Diagnose and Replace a Rear Caliper Using an Infrared Thermometer
-EricTheCarGuy
You had the same problem with vacuum bleeding that I do — air leak at the
bleeder nipple. Annoying. Hey, Eric, GREAT VIDEO. Another future
Ericthecarguy classic.
Is adjusting the parking brake tension any more difficult in this
configuration?
It seems like the hub is blocking the starwheel that you’d adjust the brake
with, unless you don’t adjust tension from there.
What about lithium grease on the slide pins?
Replaced calipers on 76 Corvette a number of years ago. Hard to get old
ones off but once off, it was pretty easy to put new ones on. Be sure to
pump brakes a couple of times when new calipers are on before you go for a
test drive. If not, you’ll be pumping like crazy to get it stopped the
first time you try to stop. Saw that happen once.
You have the most bizarre combination of high tech tools and smarts, and
downright dangerous half-assery that no shade tree mechanic should feel
comfortable with.
On My Toyota Truck going aftermarket with the front calipers caused a pull.
Because the left caliper and right caliper were being manufactured by two
different Companies. The left side didn’t even fit the same.
In my (limited) experience, it’s a good idea to torque down banjo fittings
(or whatever people call them, the fittings on the calipers and various
other parts). I tightened the banjo bolt on my fuel rail with a 1/2″
wrench, not all that hard, and I noticed a small loss of power when opening
the throttle wide. I undid it a few days later, torqued it to spec, and the
power was back.
On the handbrake / ebrake, aren’t those self adjusting ones?
And is silicone grease the same as silicone paste?
Why you wouldn’t like to rebuild it using rebuild kit and polishing the
piston?
And you should lubricate the caliper bracket under the shims so it prevents
the rust to appear and jam the pads.
Great in depth detail.
As mentioned Eric… With vacuum bleeders you need to create the vacuum
first before opening the nipple. Pumping the lever with the bleed nipple
open is not doing anything ;)
GREAT VID!
I’ve got that same thermometer from Harbor Freight. It works great. I’m
finding a million uses for it, including at the barbecue grill. Also good
for checking ice temperature on the back deck in February.
When I find a caliper that does not go in , I open bleeder or crack line
loose .If caliper then goes in ,it is most likely the rubber hose ,if still
stuck then defiantly the caliper
Never confuse a screw hole with a stud hole, otherwise you might end up in
a tight spot…….! :)
I really like how you employ simple, yet meticulous methods in something as
elementary as brake calipers! Good work, 10/10, would recommend.
When you took that rotor off it appeared to be drum brakes i have never
seen a combo like that before are my eyes playing tricks on me?
You know what’s interesting? My Corolla sat unused for 5 or so years, then
was used heavily for a year or so. Its brakes were so bad, they would
barely stop the car. I went in to replace the brakes (my first time ever
doing brakes) and I expected a lot of resistance from the rotor. It slid
right off, no tugging necessary. But this Corolla didn’t have any sort of
rotor screws or threads for them.
Hy Erick, your car have not ABS? If it have, you can not do brake bleeding
like that, right? How you bleed air from ABS pumps?
This is timely, because today I took out an old car I bought years ago and
the brakes began to engage themselves. The front rotors are a little hard
to turn, but I don’t think it’s in the calipers. As I’m going down the
highway, the brakes slowly begin applying themselves slowing the vehicle
until the ABS kicks in to fight them from locking up.
It’s like the brake booster has some sort of leak or maybe a bad spring as
all the brakes engage themselves very slowly while cruising at ~55MPH
How are you wearing a sweatshirt ! Im in Pennsylvania and its hot, arent
you in ohio?
Great video eric
Slider pins normally require a rubber grease (pin lube) as normal anti
seize will cause damage to rubber.
Ebrake shoe adjustment spot on
At the dealer honda has released a update that moly grease should be used
on the pad shims and pad friction points. So between the pads shims and the
bracket they now say to used moly grease M77 is the honda term. Most likely
aftermarket something exists.
I’m Sorry, Eric, but, I Don’t understand why you change the caliper?, maybe
because the piston is glued!!
Thanks for your video!!!
If you just depress the brake pedal there is no need to crimp off the brake
lines
You can put some teflon tape on the bleeder threads to stop the air coming
in.
I find it best to pump up the vacuum bleeder then open the bleeder valve.
That does a long continuous pull. That prevents a bubble in the brake line
from traveling back up the line during pauses. This is a big issue on
motorcycles as the lines run straight up. I have found a vacuum bleeder the
only way to do it as once the bubble reaches the R/L manifold, you will
never get it out via the pump method.
Be careful on that little cup turning over and sucking brake fluid into the
pump. It will corrode the pump.
Now what if the slide pin boots trap air in them, because of the lube??
Seriously, what asshole gave the 1 thumb down?! GREAT video Eric, the
world needs more teachers like you.
I have found, that ignoring the lubrication aspects of the braking system
is frequently done by both professionals and amateurs.
One of your better video’s Eric. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for video Eric, we both have similar ideas for diagnostic job :-)
Hey Eric, there is this awesome PC game called Car Mechanic Simulator 2014!
You should play, it is a mechanic’s game, but most of the things in real
life installing progress isn’t on there. Just to give you a little of a
head start for your free time. 😀 And I would love to see you play it.
I really liked the addition of the MCM style tools needed breakdown. Nice
job Eric!
You’ll know your brake caliper is sticking when you will smell those
burning pads, its real nasty smell. I had this problem on my 01 Ram and it
would actually hop around (rear end) cause rear caliper was randomly
sticking and wheel itself would get hot.
Great video, just did the brakes on a friends car two days ago. She has
vented front rotors and one of them had the inside flange ground completely
down and half way through the ribs of the venting. The only reason she said
she had a problem was because her brakes failed to work. Upon inspection I
found the fluid ran out of the system because the caliper piston
finally pushed out far enough to lose its sealing capability. If you never
seen it before, I can send you a pic of the rotor.
Also a note for your welding ventures, DO NOT USE brake cleaner to clean
metal prior to welding. It WILL kill you instantly. The arc will flash the
brake cleaner off into phosgene gas.
Thanks Eric, A lot of great tips in the video.
Very good video
Hey Eric, love the vids. Being an astute viewer, I’ve notice before that
everything you do in a break job is second to none, but I just can’t get
over the fact that you pinch the flex line. Wouldn’t it compromise the
integrity of the line? They are not just made of rubber, there is bradded
steel in the line as well, that keep the hydraulic pressure contained. I
for one do not, in any circumstance pinch a flex hose. It could possibly
burst under a panic breaking condition. You know what happens when you
fatigue metal by bending it back and forth. I just want to know your
thoughts on that. Everyone has there own methods and I respect that. I’m
not in anyway trying to disrespect you, but trying to get more insight into
this method. It’s just what I was taught many years ago. And yes I also
believe silicone grease is a must on all break jobs.
Great vid, thank you
But where is Brian…….camera man
I bought an 02 Maxima two years ago. The rear calipers have the integrated
parking brake and when I bought it the calipers were painted black under
the shims and the pads held the vehicle with both brakes off, (foot and
hand) on a slight hill. I had to grind off the paint under the shims and it
released the pads!
I had a similar issue a couple years ago. It ended up being a collapsed
brake line
I find that when using a vacuum bleeder you’ll have a much easier time if
you build up vacuum before opening the bleeder valve and then continue to
pump
This video could not have come at a better time as I am doing the brakes on
my element next week, thanks etcg your videos are giving me the knowledge
and confidence to start doing my own car maintenance and repair.
With that brake bleeder, you are supposed to build up the vacuum first in
the line and reservoir before opening the bleeder and allow the vacuum to
pull the air from the caliper. Then repeat the process until all air
bubbles are gone when you open the bleeder valve. The hardest part is
holding the clear line on the brake bleeder valve while you pump and build
up the vacuum first.
Great vid overall Eric, but I would question the emphasis placed on the
usefulness of the infrared thermometer. Even a small temperature
differential between wheels will be noticeable by a human digit, using
sensible precautions of course!
Hey Eric, you didn’t tighten the top caliper bolt! 28:10
funny thing i just had this issue with my car last night, verry nice timing
hehe
Love the Info. Only thing I would add would be to try and compress the
piston again after removing the brake hose to be sure it is a seized
caliper and not a collapsed brake hose. Again, Great Video, Love them All
Eric I’m loving how your influencing diagnostics lately before replacing,
well done, good way to be certain! SD!
I had the same thing happen on my 2004 element. tried lubing slide pins
first. but ultimately had to replace the caliper.