Short video tutorial on how to replace the lower front ball joint on a 6th generation Honda Accord (1998-2002). I assume no risk or responsibility in my tutorial. If in doubt consult a professional.
1998-2002 Honda Accord Front Ball Joint Replacement
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This is is a great video. I have one tip on the ABS sensor: You can gently
tap on the back side of the sensor(side opposite bolt) and remove it. I
figured this out after breaking the passenger side trying to “wiggle” it
out. The cost for a new one is $28 at local Autozone and one hr. of my time
anyway.
@ deeerkila4life – yes you’re right that you can use a pry bar! I
should’ve stated that before. I just coincidentally went for an alignment
and they said it is loose. Great tip for all!
you suck! why don’t you show everything, you fag!
was planing to change mine , but it looks to complex. ill have to see more
video . or see this one again
Why do you have to hang the brake calipers on a wire?
Great work! I appreciated the detail and explanation.Thank you!
good video, thanks, you sound really Canadian…would also explain all that
corrosion…damn road salt!
that steering knuckle is so cracked tho
TOTAL DISASTER!!! Well I tried to do a lower ball joint job for the first
time. this was on a 2004 accord and the set up seemed exactly the same.
Same suspension design and bolt sizes. The auto parts store loaned me a
pickle fork and press kit. I tried to slowly pry up the ABS with a putty
knife and thought I was getting it, but the screw side snapped away from
the sensor. Sensor is still stuck in there. The pickle fork instantly
ruined the tie rod and upper ball joint and didn’t work on the lower ball
joint. Grease dripping from all 3 now. I will never use a pickle fork
again. The spindle nut came out fine but cv shaft would not come out at all
and I was hammering for a long time. Went back to the store and they didn’t
have any axle shaft puller, but they did open up the Haynes manual. Manual
says lower and upper ball joints NOT REPLACABLE on 2003-2006 accords. Must
replace suspensions parts with them. Why did the dealer want to replace
them then? This just has been a total nightmare I don’t even know how to
get the car back together now.
This video had a lot of pounding going on lol
What size was the ball joint separator?
@ LongTimeTTFan – detail is a good and bad thing. Some criticize for me
talking way too much with too much detail but here is my thought – if
you’re going to show and tell then you might as well explain what the
part/component does and how to PROPERLY repair something. Some vids I see
online just show how to pull it out without explaining anything and I’ve
always believed that knowledge is POWER. Its your car – safety is
paramount no matter how insignificant a part might seem.
Great video.Thank you very much.
Only suggestion I got is there is a wonderful tool called a pickle fork, it
works wonderfully to separate balljoints and tierod ends.
Turn the castle nut upside down. Don’t beat your components, use a fork,
they’re stupid cheap.
Five stars dude!!! Iv looked through forums, posts, and other videos. I saw
yours, sat down, took notes, and im ready. Thanks a ton bro you saved me a
500 dollar bill!
@ Scott Duty – I knew the joints were loose when the car needed a wheel
alignment and the stealership said the lower joints were getting a little
loose. This Accord is a V6 model so the front end is quite heavy putting
and the roads here have many bumps and potholes leading to premature wear.
I’ve had a 91 Civic that was on the original ball joints at 500, 000 kms!
YMMV
This video will hopefully help me replace my lower ball joint on my 91
Honda accord. This will b the second time I’ve had to replace it but the
first doing it myself.
@Dongha- The upper joint was still very tight so there was no need to
replace the upper joint. Upper ball joints can be quite pricey when
purchased from Honda. I tend to use genuine Honda parts as I find their
quality to be considerably higher quality (and more expensive) and if I’m
going through the troubles of removing major parts on my car that I’d
rather put in high quality parts once than to replace it over and over and
over again.
Also how do we know the top of the ball joint is not replacable, i need
some tip to understand whether it is replacable or not..
I appreciate your good work here in clearly explaining how to do it. I had
forgotten what a pain it is dealing with rust. How do you know a lower
ball joint is bad? Does the handling suffer or do you just look for tire
wear or looseness?
hi, what is the sledge hammer pounds that u are using. 4 pounds or so.
You do not have to take all that apart just to change the ball joint! You
must be an hourly mechanic!
What purpose did it serve to detach the upper control arm?
Hi. Why did you detach the upper control arm castle nut again?
Was just wondering how much time this takes from start to finish for both
lower ball joints?
Excellent instructional video. Well produced. Thanks
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. High quality
video. Clear and detailed explanation. You are very meticulous. The video
is very informative. Watching you do it is like having a tour of the
procedure. Thanks a great deal again.
Is there any chance of looking at the base of the lower ball joint for the
“B” without taking things apart? I’d like to have my parts ready before
starting. It’s sad that this can be either $50 for two lower ball joints
or $380 for both arms. Great video! Love the detail and tips.
Great video….How did you determine you needed to replace both ball
joints?
Just curious why you not changing the upper joint while you’re at it?
Excellent video….thank you for sharing. 🙂
you’re welcome!