Replacing upper and lower ball joints on 2001 Dodge Durango 4×4

Replacing upper and lower ball joints on 2001 Dodge Durango 4×4

The actual times was about 40 minutes. But I could not expect anyone to watch all of that! I also had to edit out myself coughing and hacking severely a few …

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autoserviceny says:

What are you doing using a torque wrench for more leverage? You should have
just used that craftsman with a pipe at the end so you do not mess up the
expensive torque wrench.

juniorloz says:

Ok man, this is just funny, sit, stay, informative too!

AgawaBay says:

Great video, I could watch you doing crap all day like this. Mine is shot
and 170 bucks to pay for it to get done… Wish I had the tools!

danny Jaramillo says:

Great Video! These how to videos are so much nicer when they show you every
step that was needed to get the job done. I hate when the commentator says
“Now, disconnect the ball joint” then they do a scene jump where the part
is out of the vehicle and the commentator is standing there nice and pretty
without a single grease stain.

MrGreatisthelord says:

Hey good job man. I’m doing the same job on my Dakota now. I noticed you
didn’t torque anything down to spec. Is that ok?

chvydrptop says:

PS why not use the air gun the tighten up the c clamp when reinstalling the
lower ball joint. Bad idea?

hackfreehvac says:

Yeah, not much rust in this area. That’s why people like buying used cars
from Arizona.

hackfreehvac says:

LOL! The Coke. 🙂

hackfreehvac says:

Oh it’s over 20 years old and buried under my work bench. LOL! Good ol’
belt drive. Seems that most new ones are noisy pancake pumps.

hackfreehvac says:

The lower ball joint is not pulling out of it? You may need a second
person. One to hold a big pry bar in there to keep tension on it as if he’s
trying to separate the joint, and the second person to smack the outer part
with the hammer. The shock of hitting it with the hammer is what makes the
pressed part come apart but you need constant tension pulling the joint
apart with the pry bar for it to happen.

hackfreehvac says:

It was very tight. The impact would take a lot plus I would not have the
“feel” as I do by hand. Just one of the few times I don’t use the impact.
🙂

hackfreehvac says:

I only use a “ball joint tool” for the lower ball joint that is pressed in.
The upper ball joint I just remove the nut then use a pry bar to hold
steady pressure as I want the joint to separate, then smack the knuckle
there with the hammer and usually with a few blows the joint pops right
apart. No pickle fork or anything else. I use the same technique to
disassemble tie rod ends as well.

Walter's Playground says:

Is there anything this guy can’t do? Auto mechanics, HVAC/R, electronics,
computer programming, … I look up to you man!

hackfreehvac says:

Perhaps next time I MOVE that bench and that compressor. LOL! Which might
happen if I get a new project car and have to rearrange things.

Raylan Givens says:

2:28 That’s called “PRODUCT PLACEMENT” – casually throwing in a very
recognizable product. After watching that, you have more respect for what a
car mechanic goes through. ESPECIALLY when you bring him a rusty POS and
try to ask for “cheap” repairs. I have my specialties and intricate car
repair like that IS NOT ONE. I’m happy to pay for stuff like that to be
done by someone else.

hackfreehvac says:

If the upper is bolted in, it’s already been replaced. Unless they changed
them at some point newer than 2003. Stock ones are usually riveted in . But
who knows. I assumed mine had already been replaced because they had bolts
and not rivets. Once the bolts or rivets are out and of course you already
removed the hub assy from the ball joint, it comes right out. It’s the
bottom ones that need a tool. The bottom ones last longer though.

Wes Haynie says:

seems you have experience with cars cool. keep it coming.

Connor MacLeod says:

Hi Im in dire need of replacing the upper control arms and all bushings. Do
you have this in your videos.

hackfreehvac says:

I think I just used the red grease to lube the threads on the tool.

hackfreehvac says:

HA HA! Thanks bro. And your name reminds me of BRUNSWICK. So I may as well
add that I throw a 16 Lb Roto Grip and TRY to maintain a 200 Average when
possible. 🙂 Seriously I’m just a person who’s not numbed down by vaccines
or fluoride so my mind is always spinning. 🙂 I’m not the best business or
office minded but I am a GEEK with gadgets.

hackfreehvac says:

A few years back I had a channel of us doing home made turbo installs, and
other car repairs. But I deleted the channel. Which sucks. Because the hard
drive with my archive crashed and I lost most of the old projects. 🙁

hackfreehvac says:

I was done by 9PM.

chvydrptop says:

Great video, what is that red stuff you are putting in the lower ball joint
hole? Anti-seize?

hackfreehvac says:

Luckily there are not that many bolts to remove in the job. Air tools is
nice though. 🙂

Amber Green says:

thank you very much for posting! Helped us out a lot!

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