Starter gear not engaging, loud grinding or kicking out? Here’s how to properly shim a starter and check clearances.
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Some starters required shims to provide clearance between the flywheel and the pinion gear. Some people also use flat washers in place of shims. To know about the shimming procedure, you need to know how to remove and install starter.
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You guys have been asking for stickers. They're finally here https://teespring.com/deboss-le
So your telling us we have to pull the motor to change the starter effectively I see a sold truck in my future lmao
Great explanation if you have the transmission removed. I need to check mine with it assembled. I will probably end up removing the transmission. There is no way to accurately slide the wire in to check the lash with the drive train and headers installed. I'm sure there are keyboard commandos who will tell me about the hundreds of starters they have correctly shimmed without removing anything. Good video however shimming just one side removes the support that full contact with the block provides you.
I much prefer the way that my starter is bolted on; it has a stud to hold it in place while you install the top bolt; but yours is under and you have to hold it and bolt it at the same time. But it is easier because of space I suppose!!!
Someone stole your transmission. You have bigger issues.
what is a shim?is it the metal gasket you add on ?
Couldn't help but notice that your transmission is missing. Does that help with your procedure?
Thank you so much for the info my mechanic had me buy a box of those shims and I didn't know what they were used for and how many why even had me buy them but now I know exactly what to do and I'm going to get that starter motor on first thing tomorrow thank you
Caution: Always disconnect the battery cable from the starter when doing this.
If you pry the drive out with the battery cable connected THE STARTER WILL CRANK THE ENGINE.
You are basically manually engaging the solenoid when you pry the gear towards the flywheel.
Im on my 5th orileys starter under warranty in 4 months. I set them up perfect and the bushing in the nose cone just craps out in no time. Once it goes the pinion just deflects off the flywheel no matter how you shim it. Its getting harder to get good rebuilt starters for the old stuff.
Good video A+++++++++++++
I really needed to see this thanks for posting
I have a question, so if one of my starter bolts got screw and I only have one starter bolt to hold the starter now will it hold with shims with no problem?
It's more fun to do in the gravel with no lift and a lowered truck
Thanks for simplifying the process!
great quality video!
i have a starter made in china—some books show you need a 1/8 inch clearance between the bendix shaft and the flex plate teeth-working on a complete rebuilt 1977 350-i had old 168 tooth plate ,kinda rough ,i bought rebuilt to use to get it running,but starter woud kick out and stick,so i bought a new flex plate–168.it was so tight it took 5 shims to take up the gap ,then it stuck teeth on the drive bad shape ,i went and got another one the first one was a gmc rebuilt, ok the china one the bendix shaft is a lot thinner than the gmc was ,so now i have to much clearence fron shaft to teeth -and i cant get it closer-when you have to much clearence what do you do then thanks
The best video installing & Shiming a Starter