In this video I have a look at a 2010 Nissan Rogue that was dropped off from another shop. They were having issues with it blowing the marker light fuse every time they turn on the lights. They thought the issue was in the rear tail lights but come to find out…. it wasn’t 😉
-Enjoy!
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I called it as soon as you pulled tat stereo out and I saw the precut illuminated wire.
You’re supposed to cut it and melt the end on it or cap it if you’re not going to use it.
Ahh ! give him a Kiss, it will make his day!
It's always phillips vs JIS… poor pozidriv
See… when you're that good it starts to be expected. I still appreciate You and the process.
It never ceases to amaze me how much people don't think. I've used aftermarket radios since 97/98…. NEVER hacked into the original wiring harness, always made sure my connections were solid and ALWAYS,,,,, ALWAYS made sure that any wires I didn't use were insulated and taped up to prevent problems like this.
Yeah, I kinda thinking now that you started a YouTube channel so that you could get 785k atta-boys with each repair.
Thanks Dr. O!
The scary part is that another "shop" couldn't use simple diagnosis to fix that. Wtf
Great video!
Electrical gremlins are my nightmare. But I love watching your logical and process. This kind of content is invaluable.
Why didn't you use the voltage drop method?
I have seen so many cars with blown parking light fuses after a stereo install, it happens often enough that the first place to check is the stereo if it is an aftermarket.
Yep, ALWAYS head for the third party HACK job stuff first, saw that the second you pulled the radio out, that illumination wire free floating…just looking for a ground.. damn
For after market Stereo Installation you will generally find a universal vehicle connector side adaptor (universal because it breaks out the vehicle circuit connections, and it may consist of more than one connector depending on the vehicle) but it has the same mating connector as the production radio, so it maintains the factory connector(s) in case you want to go back to the original radio. Then you have a pigtail that plugs into the new radio (using the radio connector style) which also terminates in unconnected wires. So, you essentially have two connector wire side pigtails that you now have to connect to one another correctly for each circuit.
The failure (over current on the fuse) was due to the new radio install vehicle pigtail circuit shorting out because it was not terminated properly or connected properly. But instead of just preventing it from shorting out using heat-shrink tubing you could have connected it to the radio, which will usually have an interior running light (dim at night function) connection usually with wire color Orange or Orange with a Stripe. The radio senses this line and dims the radio display controlled by a programmable setting. So, a better option could have been to connect the wire to the correct radio input circuit for dim function at night.
Really impressive job, Eric!
I always put the microscope on whatever it is the "last guy" had his hands on after I've covered the basics… For this reason lol
I was in enough suspense to “hold it” for 5 minutes…seriously
Diagnostics are your forte.
Soon as I saw that orange illumination wire unprotected I knew it was that. I did professional mobile electronics for some years and we never hooked up the illumination because it’s unnecessary but you have to stub it out properly.
"BUT all you did was heat-shrink a wire HOW can that cost $150"
"you weren't charged for the heat-shrink you WERE charged to find where it was needed"
Eric O’…Seems there is a reason you always blame it on the aftermarket stuff! Electrons are negative so they flow from negative to positive. But as it flows it leaves behind a charge. So, the Charge flows from positive to negative. Now, is current flow the flow of electrons or the flow of charge???