Timing belt, tensioner, and rollers replacement: 3 to 5 hours, with water pump 4 to 7 hours. This is part 1 of 2 of my Volvo S70, 850, V70 timing belt replac…
Timing belt, tensioner, and rollers replacement: 3 to 5 hours, with water pump 4 to 7 hours. This is part 1 of 2 of my Volvo S70, 850, V70 timing belt replac…
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You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Bravo!!!
Many thanks!!!
Counter clockwise is the way. As explained, you can pull the bolt out of the roller and replace the roller that way.
Nope I believe this car has only gotten by on prayer. It all needs replacing. And I have the new parts sitting here. The water pump seriously needs replacing and I would feel better about changing it all out. I wish you would tell me that I have been trying to turning it in the wrong direction because I can get a grip easily if I turn it clockwise but not ccw.
…the nut on the new roller. My guess is that I could only get it torqued to about 10 to 15 ft lbs. I then put something on the treads, hoping and praying that the nut does not come off the bolt. Maybe you should/could put some lock-tite on it.
One guy told me that he got it off by putting vice grips on the washer around the T-45. Try that first.
I suggest you inspect the roller first. If the roller is good, leave it. I’ll send you my timing belt information video that shows you how to check the rollers. If it is tight, leave it, especially if it was changed LAST TIME the belt was done.
This has happened to me twice. Both times I replaced the roller and left the bracket on. The roller has a bolt in it. You can pull the bolt and the screw will stay. Then install the new roller on the old bracket. The problem with this is tightening…
Hey Robert thanks for the videos! I am tackling this job and have been stuck on the almighty torx 45 and am about to strip it. I have tried everything! I think it was a little stripped to begin with. But I have tried new craftsman & lisle bits with breaker bars and can’t get it! What would be the best way to take it off without hurting anything else? I was going to slot it and go at it with a screwdriver. Any experience with it? Thanks!
You said the timing on the cams is off. You need to check compression. A home method of doing this is to pull all of the spark plugs except 1. Then crank the car over by hand and see if it gives any resistance. If you can turn it over twice without any resistance you have a bad cylinder (no compression). Pull that plug and install the next one. After you check all 5 one at a time you will know which cylinders are bad. If you have compression check check for another issue.
I was able to time it correctly, I made three manual turns with the crankshaft without any issues. However, when I tried to start it, you can hear the starter but it wont start up. Any suggestions? Maybe I timed it wrong?
If you tried to start it with the timing “OFF” don’t waste your time taking it to a shop unless you are ready to pay in excess of $2,000 to get the head replaced/repaired. Did you use my video to put things back together before you tried to start it?
I replaced the camshaft seal on my Volvo but the timing on the cams is off now. I marked the gears with whiteout but it cam off. There are no marking on the gears like on yours. Is there any other way to line up the gears? I might have to tow it to the shop. Please help! Thanks 🙂
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Awesome video. You are the man!
I never replace seals that are not leaking unless I have the shaft part out. The crank seals never leak unless you have a clogged PCV system and the same for the cam shaft seals. I have a write-up on the cam seals, I’ll PM the link to you.
As for the car stalling, what codes does it have?
Hi Robert I was wondering if you have a video showing how to replace the camshaft and crankshaft seals on this vehicle? I also have a question regarding my 1997 Volvo 850 T5 car, it seems to have a problem when I drive it and after it is really warmed up it begins vibrating especially if I’m at a stop light and the car wants to shut off. It has turned off and not wanting to start. What could be the cause of this? Thanks a lot for your time and great videos.
NO. Most cars require the crank “harmonic balancer” removal but these cars DO NOT. The only time I would remove the balancer is if I had a leaking crank seal which I have never seen one of these leak in the front.
Great videos Robert. Just assembling my list of tools, and the parts stores are trying to sell me a Crankshaft holding tool for this job, such as crankshaft holder removal tool from IPD. Do I need this for timing belt replacement?
After it does NOT start with the relay unplugged, plug it back in to see if things start working right again. Hopefully you did NOT pinch a wire under the intake manifold or somewhere causing the injectors to open full time.
If you can’t find the problem there, post the problem on Matthews Volvo site and/or Volvo Forums.
So it is getting to much gas for some reason. Is the temp sensor plugged in good? It is located under the thermostat. Before you start the car, turn the key on and see what temperature reading you are getting. Does it run smooth? Also, double check the intake manifold, make sure it is on right and nothing is pinched under it.
Unplug the fuel injector relay at the fan scrod. See if the car starts then. It should NOT. For some reason, I think all of your injectors are full open.
thanks for replying so fast it runs just about under a min and it just floods it doesnt start easy and theres no codes and its a 98 s70 t5
tha ks
Are you saying that you can repeat this process over and over again? Dry out the chambers and start it again? How long does it actually run? If it is flooding, you have an injector problem. Are the injectors sticking open? Do you have any engine codes? Are all of the relays at the fan connected? Does it start easy? I would start with reading the codes. What year car is it?
hi there i recently had bent valves in motor and i took the head in and got it rebuilt now when i put everything back together the car starts for about a min or so and shuts off and will not start after i have to take out spark plugs to let excess gas to dry out what could this be ?
Thanks. Several people told me that the tool count helps a lot so I do my best to remember to post it. I actually film the tools at the end of the job so I don’t miss any.
Nice job Robert! I like the review of tools needed nice touch.
Very nice thanks
Yes, there are a lot of cars that will be similar. Especially if they are DOHC motors. Design runs the same in many cars, just different on the crap you have to pull to get to the guts.
Interesting that this volvo is set up very similar to my lexus some stuff even looks the same, heck aisin has parts on my engine too!
My engine code is B5254T BUT it has the mechanical tensioner, not the hydraulic one on the TB.
My engine code is B5254T BUT it has the mechanical tensioner, not the hydraulic one on the TB.
Yes that is the one. It should be the same for all of the 850’s and early ’98 S/V70’s.
Great video, can you tell me which engine code you have in the video, is it the B5254T ?
Thanks!
As long as the turbo has no shaft play you’re likely ok.
Yea I went ahead and bought that R model. Looks really good so far. I got the head off today, and sure enough, bent valves. Probably half need replaced, I will take it to a machine shop on Monday.
Hey, I was wondering if I could pick your brain. I fount just a bit of oil in the hose between the tubo and intake. Not much, maybe a teaspoon worth. Is this something I should look into, or is a bit of oil in there normal?
Did you do the job on the R? Glad you got the serpentine belt tensioner released.
A 1/2 ratchet is too small, I tried it today. I hear that a 3/4″ is too big, but I have not confirmed this. The way I went about doing it was taping pennies to my 1/2″ breaker bar. Worked very well, I was surprised.
Yes, my 1/2 inch ratchet has to much slack in that hole.
ever think about inserting a ratchet into the tensioner instead of that cube I have the same car that’s what I use. thanks for posting video tho.
You will need to pull the head and change the bent valves. There is a chance, about 10% that a valve cut into a piston. You can get the valves and replace them yourself. You’re likely looking at spending about $500 on that job if you do it yourself. If you send it to the shop, at about $250 to that.
Excellent! Very good and clear video. I am considering buying a 850R tomorrow with a broken timing belt and was wondering how hard it was to get in there. I realize I will probably have to get a valve job. Just wondering if you have heard of the heads cracking on these, and what the chances are my head and/or pistons could be bad?
You are welcome.