This is part 2 of 2 of my Volvo S70, 850, V70 timing belt replacement video. Torque values: – Tensioner Roller, 30 Ft Lbs. – Idler Roller, 18 Ft Lbs. – Hydra…
This is part 2 of 2 of my Volvo S70, 850, V70 timing belt replacement video. Torque values: – Tensioner Roller, 30 Ft Lbs. – Idler Roller, 18 Ft Lbs. – Hydra…
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That one is a little tight but it is easy compared to most. Thanks for watching.
I’m shocked how much room there is to do the t/b on that volvo, I’ve just worked on american cars same as you the last 30 plus years. Good job Robert.
Very cool. And what a great car. Is the AWD system still functioning?
Just got a 1998 v70r, first car and I thank you. I successfully did this and i’m 16!
Good, you should be. I’m nervous every time I pull a timing belt. The thing to remember is to pay attention to details. Also, when you are done, you are to turn the crank over four times (two belt cycles) before you hit the key to start the car. If you do that you will be fine. Do NOT over tighten bolts that you put back on the motor.
im a newb at the mechanic field im in college for it and I haven’t gotten to that subject yet but my Volvo’s timing belt seems cracked and worn I need to change it all I have is the belt not a kit I have most of the tools required in your video and don’t have the funds to pay some1 do to the job and im VERY NERVOUS to start the job
Glad it helped, thanks for watching.
Thanks once again for the video. I used your CV Axle video the other day. Today the timing video. Car fired up and drives fine. I ended up having to do the water pump too (it was leaking). Thanks again.
I would think they’re a different material, they tend to be caramel coloured, sort of see through as well. But the teeth look no different. Actually, all the little Honda OHC lawn and garden engines use run in oil cambelts. My 850 was pretty snug behind the pulley, I was worried about maybe scoring the belt on some sharp casting. But I held my finger to it as it was running and it was fine. I’d use a little water based lube next time for sure.
Wow, are they made of the same material? I have no problem getting the belt on.
Soap and water wouldn’t do any harm. Give it a good blast of air after it’s flipped into position. Actually I’ve worked with cogged belts that run in oil!
Man, I don’t want to put anything on that belt that can cause it to slip, deteriorate, streatch, etc.
That sure is tight slipping that belt behind that balancer pulley! I just did the belt on my 850 yesterday and I think a bit of lube might be a good idea there. Maybe some 50/50 dish soap and water.
Cool, some people do that.
Bit of trivia for y’all, did you know that Mike Nesmith’s (from the music group The Monkees) mom invented Whiteout?
After removing the inner belt cover, it’s a good idea to make another Whiteout mark on both pulleys that line up with some reference point on the cylinder head. That way you know where they are supposed to be should they happen to move. Since you remove the inner cover with its notches, it’s useful to have another set of marks.
Not sure about the S80 crank (harmonic balancer) needing to be pulled. Google some instructions or check SwedeSpeed.
Yes I did turn back the cam sprocket without the belt on. When you have the crank on mark spot, the cams are suppose to clear the valves/pistons.
hey great work.
i have a question is it possible to replace the timing belt on a volvo 2000 s80 with out removing the crankshaft? because i dont have air tools, or the special tool (crankshaft holding tool)
also i saw your mark’s move clock wise , did you turn back the crankshaft back with out the timing belt on?
Smart!
I usually change it with the PCV and oil changes. Usually once per year.
The oil cap gasket gets old and cracked over time and will leak oil also. It’s just a good time to do it. PCV is newly serviced.
LOL, I think the 4 foot breaker bar is a little over kill but “better safe than sorry”.
Why the oil cap gasket? The timing belt has nothing to do with the timing belt change. If you see oil on top of the motor you likely have a clogged PCV.
I used a Lisle torx T 45 socket, a craftsman 3/8 breaker bar and a 4 ft pipe slipped over the bar. I also spayed the T45 bolt on the timing belt tensioner pulley a day prior. Finally I wedged a !/8 ” thick block of soft pine wood in between the top of the breaker bar and the metal side wall of the car so there would be no chance of stripping or slippage. The T45 bolt came free no problem. 🙂 I am going to suggest a new gasket on the oil filler cap while doing the timing belt.
I hope that you will have great success with putting everything back together. Glad you did not experience a belt failure.
Thank you for making this video to share. Your explanations are great and you clarfied some points for me, very helpful! My timing belt was stretched and cracked as the car was well over the recommended change interval. The tensioner just felt out. I went and bought the same torx set today so wish me luck on finishing this!
I have never heard any story about an OEM belt snapping, that was within it’s time change schedule. Most belt companies should have good belts that will last the 115,000 km schedule. All the stories I have heard/read were people that failed to replace them. These are interfierence motors so valve damage will happen if you let the belt break. Another reason the belt breaks is that people fail to replace the rollers, the rollers fail/sieze and causes the belt to break.
Hi Robert. Im in South Africa, so buying parts from IPD or FCP is out of the question, due to shipping costs. The official volvo dealer here is really expensive due to the exchange rate of the Rand to the Dollar. I found a volvo specialist shop that stocks Goodyear cam and serpentine belts. Is it worth saving that extra money, as I have heard some horror stories about OEM belts snapping?
TY WM
Hi, many thanks for the information… many thanks
Tire size and pressure should be on the sticker label inside your petro filler door. If not, look very close to the tire and you will see a set of numbers like 205-55/16.
Hi… thanks for your videos I really like it… I have a volvo 850, but like many others I don’t know much about car… can you let me know the size of the tires please? Thanks. (I’m follow you from N. Zealand)
Great video! The only advise I have has to do with removing the lower pulley. Yours was pretty clean, but if it had oil or dirt around it, the belt ends up with it all over it as well. I advise removing the lower pulley and cleaning the area.
robert G8 vids! i did complete TB service for belt/tensioners/pullies/water pump. heeding your advice, i bought 3 brand new “highest quality”T45’s for removing the tenacious timing belt tensioner pully. it was still stripping after 1st 2 T45’s. it was about 35% stripped. no good. then, i noticed that there is a thin 1/32”-ish collar on the outside of the torx collar…it is one in the same with the torx. you can bite on this with vice grips.
Hi Micinum, I sent a message to your YouTube page.
I have a question for you than no other mechanic could not answer in my country. I have ford focus from 2008 (europe model) with 1.4l engine that is 16v. not it has 45000km on 35 it started to do a rattling noise from 1200 to 2100 rpm when you lift off the gas and when the car is cold, when warm it used to not rattle but now its audible. in ford they told me that they need to check the timing belt but that is a lot of work. could timing belt do this rattle. power is oky, mot test is oky.