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I show you the quickest and simplest way replace your control arm, which is also known as a wishbone.
There is NO driveshaft removal and I show you how to do the job with basic hand tools.
Lower Control Arm Wishbone Replacement Volvo V70 S60 S80
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This needs to be done with both wheels off the ground, or the sway bar link will put pressure on the strut and it will force the spindle sideways making it difficult to align the ball joint into the wishbone.
Great job, Thank You.
Hello. Well dont I wish I watched your video prior to todays shenanigans. my mechanic changed my wishbone today and did undo the drive shaft.
The drive inner CV popped out. ie the ball bearings came out. Now we cant get it back together. Should the bearings be able to come out like that??? Does it mean the CV is actually worn out if it happens. There has been zero clicking or vibration to suggest a worn CV. There did not appear to any kind of retainer or cage to stop the shaft pulling too far as I have had on other vehicles.
Do I need to buy a new shaft.
It's a long shot I know but if you do get this message tonight I would sincerely appreciate some advice as tomorrow I will have to bite the bullet and buy a new shaft as I need to do a long drive to work on Thursday… I'll buy you a pint!
On another note. do you know the J & R drive shaft products?? They are located in the midlands and have great prices… possibly to good to be true??
Many thanks in advance
Nice video but sadly, if you have a 99 Volvo S80 T6 like me, you have to lift the engine about 2 to 3 inches to get at the front bushing bolts on the driver's side. There is only 1/2 inch of space between bolt and engine and I could only get a wrench half the way on the bolt and there is no way to get the bolts out far enough remove the control arm. Another WTF moment from the engineers at Volvo for poor bolt placement that could have been designed better.
thanks bro!!!
Hi SiRobb.. Thanks again for all your great videos. We've still not done the wishbones on our 2005 2.4 D5 XC90 yet (long story) !! Is the procedure basically the same as your video shows?
Thanks for this video, Just finished the job myself , the first took two plus hours , I had the mechanic help to reset the lower ball (twenty minutes on that alone ) with a few close calls on fingers getting crushed. The second one was changed in thirty minutes, the mechanics jaw hit the floor when I used the cargo strap to tension the lower control arm. Impact driver, the auto lift, and the cargo strap trick were huge diference makers.
Thanks SiRobb. Without you I'd have been doing it by the DIY manual (no names mentioned!) and jacking up the engine! It was a bit of a bonus to find that on mine (S60 2.0T), having loosened the 17mm bolts using your method, I was able to withdraw them completely and change them if I wanted.
Something you didn't mention was the proximity of the metal pipe to the 17mm bolt head next to the undershield bracket. In order to get the clearance for the bolt head I had to wedge a small block of wood between the pipe and the subframe lip to force the pipe aside, which was a bit scary as I was worried I was stressing nearby pipe joints too much, but I seem to have got away with it.
Strap idea worked well too. These days all my mates say they are too old to help with jobs like that. Wimps!
did that today with some help from a neighbor it was successful thanks again.
Great video as usual. Just wonder… You managed on original wishbone for 12 years without replacing front bushing? is it right?
Great video keep making more and I'm putting mines back on today with all the bushings and the ball joint are brand new I expect a smooth ride now thanks.
Thanks i have removed the lower control arm i will not be changing the arm but the two bushings and the ball joint tomorrow.
Thanks i have removed the lower control arm i will not be changing the arm but the two bushings and the ball joint tomorrow.
This man is better than the ?experts? thanks for you clarity SiRobb
Great video Rob. Just a question, wouldn't putting the jack under the steering limiter or brake disc lift the whole assembly instead of using a ratchet strap?
Thanks for taking the time to make and post this video! I was at a loss for the last 2 hours on how to install the control arm. Now that I see what I need to do, I should be done in about 20 minutes!
Thanks Rob I have to tackle this job in the next couple of weeks. This is the most comprehensive video I have found and I am glad you showed this can be done without lifting the engine or removing the axle. I do hope to have access to a lift when I do the job so that will be an added bonus. Please keep up the good work brother!!
Unless a person has an impact wrench, they will want to loosen the steering link nut before removing all the control arm bolts. Otherwise the knuckle wants to move all over the place when you're trying to crack it loose.
I did this the way displayed today, after doing it the "normal" way previously (used some GARBAGE Meyle control arms that lasted only a year and 5,000 miles). I would not recommend this technique to the weekend warrior. It's a few more steps to release the axle from the hub, but I found it less stressful. Seeing the axle boot shoved into the control arm was disconcerting. There is just enough room for this technique to work – kudos to you for discovering it.
Should the ball joint also be replaced at the same time?
great video. still confused on 2 subframe bolts. when you say drivers side are you talking UK?
Brilliant video. Thanks so much for doing this. I have renewed confidence in doing this job myself.
You're right mate. Thanks again for help.
Hi Simon, is it possible to change only the bushes as the wishbone isn't damaged?
Thank you for this video. I followed your recommendations and you were spot on. Excellent work.
This video,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOEMdrhalak
shows the worker removing the CV Axle bolt, doesn't seem important, why do you think they do it?
Great instruction. will help me do this work on my XC90
Did you notice any knocks or other suspension noises before you inspected for failed parts down in your front end? I have this knock when accelerating from a stop or braked position and dip into a right turn.
I like this video as using the rachet strap would of made my life easier when I did mine, there is something I would like to share though. I did my nearside first and I didnt undo my drive shaft bolt. so as I took the wishbone off, The whole leg decided to come forward and stretched on the cv joint causing the inners to come apart. It took me a day or so trying to reassemble the drive shaft.
My tip and suggestions are to grab some locktight, a bungie cord and when doing work on the lower leg components – undo the drive shaft bolt and bungie cord it to the coil spring so if the leg decides to fling forward then it will not pull the drive shaft out. Once you put the drive shaft back in along with the rubber spacer then a quick clean up on the drive shaft bolt and put the locktight on and do it.
watching your vid, it shows you was quite lucky that the leg didn't spring out. Still a thumbs up from me.
+SiRobb, I believe that the only reason Volvo wants you to use new hardware, is to ensure that red Loctite or thread-lock is used on the bolts. So, unless your hardware is subjected to a lot of corrosion from stuff like road salt, as long as you use a thread-lock compound, reusing the existing hardware should be acceptable.