Cylinder head replacement: 6 to 8 hours ($1,100 / $2,300 / $2.800)
WARNING: The cam cover and cylinder head are a machined pair and one can not be replaced without the other. Do NOT damage the cam cover, then try to find another cam cover to replace the one you damaged. Get another head with its matching cover.
Parts to use: https://youtu.be/Osdsv5I_jxM
Cam cover removal: https://youtu.be/Hus0VPtzqYk
How to use an angle torque gauge: https://youtu.be/8WohM6pt58I
My website for contact info and donations: www.RobertDIY.com
Cam locking tools: https://swedishcarparts.com/parts/754-volvo-850-s70-s40-v70-s80-s60-960-xc90-timing-belt-camshaft-tool-made-in-usa-9995452s
Cam locking and draw down tools: https://swedishcarparts.com/parts/1416-volvo-twin-cam-cylinder-head-r-r-and-timing-belt-camshaft-tool-set-made-in-usa-9995452
In this video I helped a viewer replace the cylinder head on his 2008 C30 Volvo. This process should work on the following vehicles:
– Volvo C30: 2007 – 2013
– Volvo C70: 2006 – 2013
– Volvo S40: 2005 – 2012
– Volvo V50: 2005 – 2012
– Ford Focus RS: 2004 – 2011
————————————————-
Disclaimer: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLPVaRK9sDU
Basic car care YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/rspiwin
How to search my videos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gt9w-ZSxs9I
Visit my Website for special tools, my wish list and other helpful information: http://www.RobertDIY.com
Support Robert, become a Patron: http://www.Patreon.com/RobertDIYAfterDark/
){kind=link}
Im lost on the cam locking tool. The only reason I see that it would be needed if you were removing the hubs to replace the seals but not removing the cam cover or cams them selves. Is the tool needed on a complete tear down of the cam cover?
just got quoted $7000 for this job at my local shop is that normal?
Glad, I found your video. Quick question, in general when the 2.5 5cyc skips time is it usually just a head replacement or full engine?
its not just you robert, no one, literally, seems to spot a major failure point on anaerobic sealant in that cover assembly: after aplying the sealant, you have to wipe the excess near the bearing journals with a Q-tip before assembling, otherwise the sealant will run to the journals when you torque it down.
How do I know which cylinder is 1,2,3,4 etc?
Do you recall the casting number for the correct cylinder head that you ended up installing? I briefly saw the numbers go by and it's not either of the casting #s they're telling me should be on mine. Thank you. @25:12
most Volvos after 2009 are not worth this much effort ..what i mean is they are cheap disposable plastic rolling piles ! look at all the fail point in this job .line ,rubber hoses ,caps ,sensors ,brackets 1 thing breaks and it will (TIME AND HEAT) you blow the motor . the average joe or jane has a hard time turning key to start the car now up keep on all these fail points NO WAY !! you wont be seeing these in the 2040 car shows …
Glad you spotted the air con pump issue before all your hardwork went up in smoke for a 3rd time!
Will this procedure work on a 2006 Volvo xc70 base model?
OK thanks, so you dont use the cam locking tool on removal?..or anything to hold the cam shaft in place? Do you install the same way then rotate the cams to alignment? major worry is not damaging the cam cover or head cam journals or have the valve contact the piston.
If you guys are lonely call Robert he’s the free lonely hotline
I always wondered if I should scrap the paint off where the ground wires should go.
I would like to make a donation. Is it possible on Patreon to make a one time donation, or is it always a monthly "membership"
Nice video!