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New Wheel Bearing & Hub Assembly from 1AAuto.com http://1aau.to/ia/1ASHS00238
1A Auto shows you how to repair, install, fix, change or replace a worn out, vibrating or groaning wheel bearing hub. This video is applicable to the 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, Volvo XC90.
🔧 List of tools used:
• Flat Blade Screwdriver http://1aau.to/oaaj/1AXAA00013
• Pry Bar http://1aau.to/ogy/1AXAA00020
• 15mm Wrench http://1aau.to/onM/1AXAA00010
• 18mm Wrench
• 10mm Socket http://1aau.to/oQE/1AXAA00017
• 14mm Socket http://1aau.to/oW2/1AXAA00015
• 18mm Socket http://1aau.to/opJ/1AXAA00043
• 19mm Socket http://1aau.to/opJ/1AXAA00043
• 21mm Socket http://1aau.to/opJ/1AXAA00043
• Angled Die Grinder http://1aau.to/ob/1AXAA00259
• Blowtorch
• Brake Caliper Hanger http://1aau.to/oH/1AXAA00084
• Torque Angle Gauge
• Pliers
• 1/2 Inch Breaker Bar http://1aau.to/ojs/1AXAA00078
• Ratchet http://1aau.to/oabR/1AXAA00016
• Socket Extensions http://1aau.to/oW2/1AXAA00015
• Torque Wrench http://1aau.to/otm/1AXAA00044
• Brake Parts Cleaner
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Rust Penetrant
• 7mm Hex Socket
• Floor Jack http://1aau.to/orA/1AXAA00068
• Jack Stands http://1aau.to/orM/1AXAA00065
• Large Hammer http://1aau.to/ojK/1AXAA00091
• Rubber Mallet http://1aau.to/oan/1AXAA00413
• Wire Brush http://1aau.to/od2/1AXAA00079
For More Info visit us at http://1aau.to/h/bPc/
⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While 1A Auto strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. 1A Auto is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Would it be the same for 2011 s40 t5?? Thanks
Great video. One small correction, Stop Signs are Octagons or 8 sided. Allen head is 6 sided…
Gros bourrins
My front strut decided to rotate when I removed the hub support assembly! The wheel bearing bolts I'm having a lot of trouble loosening, even with a gun running at 450 nM. Great video by the way.
There's really no need to wallop on the top of the hub flange to get the hub & bearing assembly out. It's wasted effort. Consider the angle of attack of the hammer. That force is being transferred directly to the opposite side of the hub into the knuckle. It would be more efficient (and less likely to cause damage to the knuckle bore) to hit it from the backside of the flange, that way nearly 100% of the force is going into driving the hub out of the knuckle, instead of sideways into the knuckle (and also transferring force into the ball joint, and exerting excess force in the strut which is at its limit of extension in this case.
As Joe Dirt mentioned, a better approach would be using the single-use flange-head bolts on the back as hammer points to drive the hub assembly straight out the front of the knuckle a bit at a time at each corner.
Alternatively, a slide hammer mounted in the axle hole of the bearing would likely pull the assembly out pretty easily.
Worth noting: Don't reuse any fasteners that have the factory red thread lock compound on them. They are usually torque-to-yield fasteners (angle torque), which means they stretch by design. Once they are torqued once, they cannot be removed and torqued the same again without compromising their integrity. Refer to the Volvo VIDA repair procedure for basically anything that involves such fasteners. They warn you every time to use new fasteners unless otherwise specified. This is a safety issue and should be heeded. Especially for something as critically important as a wheel bearing. This goes for the bearing assembly flange bolts (4), as well as the M10x40 (or M10x65 in this case) axle bolt. All are single-use.
When I undid the axle bolt oil poured out.. Could you tell me why?
Hammering from the top of the Hub seemed like a bad idea to me. With this approach either the hub has to bend or the kuckle has to bend. My XC has over 160K miles and lived in a cold climate all of its life so it was rusted in really badly. What I did instead was to reinstall the 4 bolts leaving them 1/4 inch out. I then hammered each of them from the back in a cross pattern until the hub popped out. Easy to do using a regular hammer and since the bolts are supposed to be replaced anyway, it presented much less risk of damage to the knuckle. HTH
The torque wrench will give you a false reading when you over tight the nut first with a impact tool
hammering out is excellent, though people have other way loose it out.