DIY: Volvo T5 C30 S40 V50 C70 Engine Oil Replacement

DIY: Volvo T5 C30 S40 V50 C70 Engine Oil Replacement

Video tutorial on how to replace the engine oil and oil filter on a Volvo 2.5L straight 5 cylinder turbo’d engine. This car I am working with here is a 2007 Volvo C30 T5, but this same engine was also used on the S40, V50, and C70 Volvo models, as well as some Ford models. A similar procedure can most likely be used on other Volvo models too.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-3/8″ ratchet
-17mm socket
-filter cap wrench
-new oil and filter
-ramps
-drain pan
-T30 torx driver

Procedure:
Ensure the vehicle has come up to full operating temperature and then elevate the front.

Volvo typically recommends an engine oil replacement at 12000km or 7500 miles or it should be done at least once a year if that mileage isn’t met. Whichever comes first. You will also have a warning light on your gauge cluster stating maintenance is required in the test display along with an orange warning light.

Start by removing the belly which is held on with 7 T30 torx screws. It’s best to start with the rear first and then slowly move your way to the front.

This is actually supposed to be clipped into the subframe by the control arm, but someone installed a cable tie instead. You’ll see towards the end of the vehicle once I reinstall the belly pan on how it clips into place.

Here is the location of the torx screws.

Now the two areas where it clips into the subframe.

Using a 17mm socket, remove the drain plug. Have the pan directly below the drain plug and once you get to the end of the threads, pull the plug away quickly so you can minimize the amount of oil on your hand. Be careful as well because the oil it hot from the engine. This should be done when the oil is hot as improves oil and allows it to drain better.

Remove the air duct off of the radiator support. This uses 2 8mm bolts, one on each side.

Once those two bolts are removed, then pop up the duct, it clips in on both the radiator support side and going down below to the air filter box.

Now remove the lower portion of the duct which feeds the air box, this just clips into place. To remove the filter cartridge cap, this requires a 36mm socket. Unfortunately, I didn’t have one on hand, so I used an adjustable wrench instead. It’s an extremely tight fit, in a pinch it will work when going from the alternator side. You can order a special socket online, I do have one on order and am just waiting for it to arrive.

Remove the cap. The filter cartridge will be inside, remove that as well.

Compare the old and new filters to ensure they are the same.

For the filter housing cap, the new filter should come with a new o-ring. Remove the old o-ring using a pick or small

Install the new o-ring and ensure it’s properly seated. Also, apply a light layer of oil to it so it doesn’t bind when screwing on the cap.

Just to give you a peek of the filter housing before installing the filter.

Install the new filter cartridge.

Now install the filter cap. The torque spec for this cap is printed right on the top, but if you’re unsure it’s 18 ft-lbs or 25nm.

Reinstall the duct, first starting with the lower portion. It just snaps into place.

Then install the upper portion which also snaps into place first.

Reinstall the bolts.

Clean the mounting surface on the oil pan for the drain plug. You can also apply a small amount of oil to the drain plug gasket to help with lubrication when tightening. The torque spec for the drain plug is 25 ft-lbs or 35nm.

Replenish the engine with oil.

The owners manual does outline which is the best weight and type of oil required for your vehicle. Be sure to check the oil level of your engine, you should have a level between the minimum and maximum lines. Start the engine and check for any leaks.

Reinstall the belly pan. The belly pan clips onto the subframe first, it does have tabs for this. Then install fasteners, first to hold it into place and then finalize everything so it lines up correctly. Remove the vehicle off the ramps, turn it off, allow it to sit for a few minutes and then check the oil again. A finalized oil level check should be done when the vehicle is on level ground.

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Comments

tom thompson says:

very clear video

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