Car Fix DIY Videos

Video tutorial on how to replace the coolant expansion tank on a Volvo C30. The same procedure also applied to the S40, V50, and C70 models as well. Over time due to the heat and age, these tanks can become brittle, crack, and if excessive can leak. Mine isn’t to the point of leaking, but I have noticed some light cracking so I’d rather just be safe. From what I’ve found, aftermarket replacements don’t tend to fit well or are cheaply made, so for this I have stuck with an OEM unit.

Website: http://4diyers.com
Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/4diyers
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/4diyers
Google Plus: https://plus.google.com/+4DIYers
Twitter: https://twitter.com/4DIYers
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/4diyers/
Tumblr: http://4diyers.tumblr.com
Pintrest: https://www.pinterest.com/4diyers/

Tools/Supplies Needed:
-water bottles
-turkey baster
-hydrometer
-interlocking pliers
-new coolant tank
-new coolant
-distilled water

Procedure:
-make sure the engine is cool when doing this, you’ll need to remove the cap and then remove most of the coolant in the tank
-I used a turkey baster for a majority of the coolant and then a hydrometer to remove what little was left
-my coolant was between the minimum and maximum markings, so roughly 750ml of coolant was removed from the tank
-the old coolant can be reused if you put it in a clean bottle, I just purchase a jug of concentrate coolant from the dealer instead
-once there is minimal coolant remaining in the tank, using interlocking plier, remove the clamps on the two top hoses
-after they have been removed, the hoses can be pulled off
-gently grab onto the hose and give it a slight twist to help it remove, these can sometimes stick in place
-this can be a little difficult, place a rag on the edge of the fender in case you slip, it can be sharp so it reduces the risk of harming yourself
-if you find the hoses are cracked or deteriorating, they may need to be replaced
-after they have been removed, direct the tops up so coolant doesn’t drop out
-pull up the tank, this takes a little force
-it just clips into place on the inside of the fender and in front of the shock tower, some wiggling might be needed to help assist it up
-when that tank is disconnected, you can remove the rear hose
-again there is another clamp, using the interlocking pliers, remove it and push it back
-pull off the hose and direct it up so it doesn’t drip coolant
-the tank does have baffling, so it can still have coolant inside, be careful so you don’t dump any remaining coolant out
-there is a little tree debris left under the tank, so I’ll give it a quick vacuum before putting everything back together
-first start by installing the lower hose
-these hoses have notches where they align with a tab on the connection
-pull the clamp back into place
-now clip the tank back into place
-this will take a little force, you can probably use some like lubrication that won’t damage the plastic or paint such as a silicone spray
-push on those two last hoses, these too have notches which need to be aligned with tabs on the connections
-reinstall the clamps using the interlocking pliers
-for replenishing the tank with coolant, I just purchased some from the dealer, they sell it in a judge which comes in a concentrated glycoil
-this is then mixed with distilled water
-distilled water is needed as it does not contain any additives which may cause build up or corrosion in the engine’s cooling system
-you can also reuse the old coolant if you wish
-try to keep it a 50/50 ratio between coolant and water, I have kept the level just below the minimum line, this will allow us to verify the mixture and determine if it needs to be adjusted when tested with a hydrometer
-leave the cap off, then start the engine, turn the heater to the highest setting and allow the vehicle come up to operating temperature
-monitor the coolant level, the existing and newly added coolant should eventually mix
-turn the engine off, allow it to cool down, and then check the coolants boiling and freezing points with a hydrometer
-the freezing point should be at -37C, -35F or lower
-the boiling point should be at least 106C, 223F or higher
-if the freezing point is too high or the boiling point is too low, then add more glycol
-when the coolant is cool, ensure the level is between the minimum and maximum lines, reinstall the cap and you’re done

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.