Buy these struts at http://apxautoparts.com/apx/1999-2004-volkswagen-jetta-iv-shocks-struts-full-set.html Step-by-step instructional video that takes you thr…
Buy these struts at http://apxautoparts.com/apx/1999-2004-volkswagen-jetta-iv-shocks-struts-full-set.html Step-by-step instructional video that takes you thr…
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You don’t. On the passenger’s front side you can loosen the two near
sub-frame bolts (not all the way out) while supporting the sub-frame, then
lower it the available inch or so which will drop the assembly enough to
remove the strut. If you use the special VW/Audi spindle housing spreader
(or make one) to spread the housing apart the whole thing comes out pretty
easily… well… famous last words, right? Just remember to tighten and
re-torque the sub-frame bolts properly.
If you go to about 5:20 in the video you will see that you have to hold the
strut rod still using an allen key and then use a ratchet wrench to tighten
the top nut.
The Jetta doesnt really have a traditional strut mount. There is a metal
upper spring seat plate which almost never needs replacing. The main
“mount” is really a big rubber bushing with a bearing. You can clearly see
in 5:30 that we installed the new bearing and used a new mount/bushing.
That’s a great review.
This is wayyyy to much work I just did coils on my mk4 05 gti and you don’t
have to do half the stuff this guy says
Thanks for contributing this info. That tool would certainly come in handy
as it can be difficult to hammer the strut out of its socket.
If one was to reference the Bentley shop manual, you will note that the
three (3) 13 mm bolts holding the lower control arm to the ball joint
requires these bolts to be “ALWAYS REPLACED”. The reasoning is the fact
that those three (3) 13 mm bolts are torque to yeild bolts with a 15 ft
lbs. torque spec, and then a 90 degree further tightening procedure. The
axle nut is also specified as: “ALWAYS REPLACE”. This info is from a 15
year VW TDI specific shop located in the Los Angeles,CA area.
Absolutely. We did the same thing on the front left side of this vehicle
and I pointed this out in a comment way below. If I still have the video
footage, I will try to post a followup video.
Is there a diagram anywhere on how to reassemble the top mount? i took the
whole top mount (above and below fender) out and didnt pay attention to
what order it goes back in and i may have even lost pieces. when i put it
back in it was very loose and the top nut would not tighten far enough to
snug the top bracket to the bottom and pull the strut up against the fender
well. so if you could please help me out i would really appreciate it.
If you’re concerned about this assembly making noise and/or breaking
through the strut tower, while driving, you might wanna replace the strut
mount @ 5:30, instead of holding the whole thing together with the top nut.
Great, now I’m scared to use my spring compressors that I just bought.
I battled for ages trying to hammer it out, then went to local shop, paid
£5 for the tool which is just a 1/2 inch drive bit with an oval shaped
protrusion. one 90 degree turn and the strut slid out effortlessly. Some
people have had success filing an allen key flat on 2 sides and using that
but for the cost of the tool it’s a no brainer really.
the rear is trailing arms. shock replacement in the rear is super easy.
just unbolt everything
5.40 Is this the correct way? Think it’s not. First bearing -than bushing-
then special nut.
also if you choose your way be carefull with brake line ive seen them rip
apart when weight of spindal assy. drops f.y.i. thanks
I did mine without taking off axle nut and spindal assy.? just used a
massive pry bar.
Guess I’m missing something? Thought this was a rear strut replacement
video?
please help! just replaced my Girlfriends front struts on her 1999 jetta
(new body) with all new quick struts. Everything went together properly but
the top mount is raised from the strut tower about an inch. is this normal(
I don’t know foreign cars that well but it doesn’t look correct to me) how
can i fix this if it is wrong?
I know that the Beetle requires the exact same part numbers, so I assume
the installation process is the same. The only difference I can think of
would be accessing the top mount on the rear shocks. I am not exactly sure
if there is a difference there or not.
I just spent 3 hrs trying to get the strut back into the socket on the left
front. Then I got frustrated, found this video, and got the front right on
and off in 45 min. Thank you SOOOO much. P.S. most of the 45 in was spent
running to Sears for a 30mm socket. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!
Hello MustangManiac. Are you by chance an SMU grad? Anywho, thanks for
pointing this out. I posted corrections in a comment below but it got
buried way down there: Axle nut tightening (12-point hex nut) • Weight of
vehicle must be on its wheels. • Tighten new 12-point nut to 200 Nm (148
ft-lb) and immediately loosen 1/2 turn (180°) • Turn wheel 1/2 turn (180°)
(roll vehicle), then tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft-Ib) plus 1/6 turn (60°) Thanks
for the info!
when i try to tighten the top strut bolt after everything is done, the
shaft of the strut itself spins with the bolt. how do i keep the shaft from
spinning to tighten everything up properly?
No you do not have to take off the whole spindle. I have seen posts on some
of the Jetta messageboards out there where they explain how they do it.
Do you HAVE TO take off the whole spindle and break assembly to remove the
strut?
Nice video man,
Hey can someone tell me if there is a difference between the vw cabrio
struts and regular vw struts and does anyone no where I can get a picture?
Is this the same for a 2005 Beetle 2.0?
: ) Sorry to scare you. We just don’t want anyone getting hurt because we
didnt take the time to properly warn you about the dangers of coil spring
compression.
Thanks for the feedback guys. Someone pointed out to me another critical
point. There are two torques on the axle nut and I only mentioned one. This
is the correct process: Axle nut tightening (12-point hex nut) • Weight of
vehicle must be on its wheels. • Tighten new 12-point nut to 200 Nm (148
ft-lb) and immediately loosen 1/2 turn (180°) • Turn wheel 1/2 turn (180°)
(roll vehicle), then tighten to 50 Nm (37 ft-Ib) plus 1/6 turn (60°)
Just a heads up to anybody else doing this, I believe this video is
incorrect on a couple of things. To me the most important one is with the
torque number for the 30mm 12 point axle nut. In the video it says “Only
torque the axle nut to 38 ft./lbs.,” but that should be 138 ft./lbs. Also,
for the 3X13mm ball joint bolts, and strut nut & bolt, those are torque to
yield/1-time use bolts, like most of the subframe bolts on the MKIV VW’s.
Those really need to be replaced, or at least use Loctite
What year is your Cabrio?
same goes for the 2001 golf im guessing yes? Im replacing strut/shock etc
at once to adjustable coil overs..
No mention of the strut housing spreader tool? Makes the job a lot easier!
Sorry, I just discovered that mustangmaniac1983 posted this very same
information about 2 months ago.
why cant the damn krauts just make these like americans do and have three
bolts holding the top mount in place seems stupid to have the easiest part
of the job, taking the strut out of the tower..be the only real pain to
this job
Not sure if this is due to the shaft of the rod spinning. If it is, move
the boot up and hold the strut tod in place with a wrench and see if you
can get it loose.
I need some help here asap when trying to remove the top mount nut with the
weight of the vehicle like mentioned the damn thing just spins and does
nothing any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I’m assuming i can
probably but an allen wrench to it but then i have to run off and get a
offset wrench those aren’t cheap again any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated thanks
Should I have an alignment after replacing my struts. Or dose this
procedure not effect the front end alignment.
Hey! I’m Hannah.I did -45 lbs in 2 month.More here hddiet.gs#gRNI