VW Timing Belt Oil Seal DIY Golf Cabrio Jetta (1 of 4)

VW Timing Belt Oil Seal DIY Golf Cabrio Jetta (1 of 4)

4 Part Series how to change the timing belt, camshaft, crankshaft and intermediate shaft Oil seals, spark plugs and drive belts on a Volkswagen Golf Cabrio o…

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Ramirez03412 says:

Hey I took my 95 jetta for a distributor replacement but they didnt take off the timing belt and set it to TDC? They just pointed the distributor at the number one cylinder, so im guessing they did it wrong?

Marknidan9999 says:

Awesome video. About 30 seconds in there was a splash guard removed. I need a part # or something as my car doesn’t have this part and I think it should…

Anthony McMahon says:

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umajunkcollector says:

On VW front wheel bearings, cpnsidering the CV joints and axles, I would think it is going to take some know how and special tools. If I had to replace the axles (for CV joints), I’d probably do the front bearings too. We have a little front end vibration and had the tires balanced first, found a rim is slightly bent. Tires/rims, tie rods, ball joints, struts/springs, bearings, tranny and CV joints can all cause front end suspension problems. I did struts once – fun stuff! NOT! gettin too old!

umajunkcollector says:

Before you do bearings, do some homework, or it could be catastrohic. We almost lost a wheel on our Dodge van from bearing failure. It’s not that hard, but make sure you grease them well, and don’t over tighten them when you’re done “loading the bearings”. You’ll also replace the seals, but it is pretty easy to do.I think that it is no worse than changing a tire when you know how to do it.

umajunkcollector says:

Did you replace that tensioner idler pully? If that seizes, BINGO! Those are cheap shit parts, so if it failed – even if rrepalced – it cold destroy a new belt. That tensioner is as important to replace as the belt, if not moreso. I’ve had my share of cheap shit replacement parts too. What did it end up being?

umajunkcollector says:

Now that I got the 01 Cabrio running, we sked it at the shop for timing belt and front end alignment. We lost two VWs from timing belt damage to the engines (1.7 L). IF that belt breaks = engine overhaul! So it is preventive maintenance to replace it about every 75K miles. I am getting the seals, water pump and idler/tensioner replaced too – all for under 300$!. A VW dealer wanted over 1K$ for this job! Both my belts broke on the road – and we junked the cars instead of the big $ $ $ repairs.

umajunkcollector says:

Thanks for this vid, very helpful and appreciated. 

utubin67 says:

thanks! appreciate you taking the time to make these videos and answer questions John. God bless you.

bearing01 says:

You mean wheel bearings? That’s something you can probably do yourself. If your car has rear drum brakes then you can do it with a hammer/chisle. If it’s disk brakes you may need a bearing splitter/puller… but you can usually buy those for under $50.

utubin67 says:

Please Author give me back your comment!

utubin67 says:

Okay John my timing belt is replaced and mechanic said I need spark plugs really bad for some reason.. but now the noise is still there so I asked the mechanic to ride with me and he said my rear bearings are bad. So, now I have to do that job. Is that a job a mechanic needs to do on the lift? Any help is appreciated.

utubin67 says:

please forward all tips to paypal 🙂

I mean at least a cup of coffee

bearing01 says:

The tensioner pulley/roller is on a bearing. In the video I replaced mine. Mine had the center hole off-center (eccentric) and I turned it to shift its position to tighten the timing belt. Newer tensioners have a hydraulic mechanism that automatically sets the tension. I’d replace that whole mechanism or just throw it in the trash and put on a simple one like I used. If the tensioner goes then the belt will go slack and come off.

utubin67 says:

this noise had kind of a ‘revolution’ sound to it.. almost like there was something going on with a tire? But I’m pretty sure it was related to this issue causing my car not to start.. moreso than the possibility it was just a coinicidence.. I just new the car was going to break down. But right before it stalled there was a bit of a pitter patter sound up front under the hood. I wish I was a mechanic sometimes.

utubin67 says:

I saw the belt.. it looked dry as the day it was made.. so I don’t think it was that.. but thx everyone for suggestions.

utubin67 says:

Well there were no leaks and car never ran hot… I’m just hoping this mechanic knows what he’s doing.. he says it was the timing belt and I saw the belt the teeth were ground down in spots.. sure didn’t look new but I’m sure the last mechanic was a crook who said he replaced it b/c it sure looked good and old to my eyes.. Also an engine mount was shot so I replaced that.. I should get my car back tomorrow.. what/where is the bearing located would the mechanic see if there’s a problem with it?

bearing01 says:

Bearings will make a whining noise (almost like a skateboard) as they are dieing.

bearing01 says:

Other than that, a leaky oil seal can leak oil on the belt and that can deteoriate the rubber. My bet is a bad pully or bearing somewhere.

bearing01 says:

Last time you changed the belt did you change the tensioner pulley? I don’t know how many miles on your car or if you have the auto-tensioning type pulley… but perhaps the tensioner died and let the belt go slack. That or the bearing in the pully went out and that’s where the noise came from. The pully finally died & loosened up due to a bad bearing. That or the water pump bearing went out (cheap pump?) and it wiped out the belt.

utubin67 says:

I have a 99 vw cabrio.. not too long ago about a year or so I replaced my water pump and did the timing belt also.. but it broke on me this week. I was hearing a whirling noise when driving over 30 mph.. then this one night about 2 days after the start of the noise.. it died after a start.. then it just cranked and cranked but never turned over. What could have caused this belt to go bad so fast on my car? And btw.. what a crapload of work to do this job. My quote was $450

bearing01 says:

If the bolts are rusty then apply heat with a propane blowtorch to the bolt heads. Then try to remove while they’re hot.

ayalalouie says:

I am trying to remove the pully and the harmonic balancer but cant get the screws to loosen like in the video, any other idea on how to do this

bearing01 says:

Should come of wit a light tap. Maybe wrap a rope around its inside, pull it tight and then tie a weight like an old brake disc or something on the rope. Pull on the rope & weight with a yank to pull off the pulley? /John

JimD1959 says:

John Thanks for the very informative video! I’m working on a 2001 Jetta 2.0. I’ve taken off the 4 6mm Allen bolts but can’t get the crank pulley to come off. I saw you tapped yours with a rubber mallet, but have been hesitant to use force on it. Suggestions?

Thanks again!

bearing01 says:

You’re welcome.  Thanks for commenting. /John

doofus mc says:

WONDERFUL STUFF ! really solves the puzzle about these seals. Thank you so much

bearing01 says:

I’m glad I could help. /John

Ben Dreis says:

OHMY GOD!!!
Thank you. I was searching google for two hours now & the info at the 5minute mark just saved my professional credibility.
Could not figure out why I had no spark after this job. I dont even know why I took off the intermediate shaft but I spun it when I put it back on not knowing it was the distributor gear.

Thank you souper mucho!

bearing01 says:

Thanks. /John

TheMable73 says:

maybe some tougher gloves , video is helpful

bearing01 says:

Thanks.  Good luck. /John

casperakaauto says:

good video iam about to do this over the weekend vw all the way bro>>.

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