Toyota Camry: How to Replace Timing Belt and Water Pump

Toyota Camry: How to Replace Timing Belt and Water Pump

http://camryforums.com/how-tos is the leading Toyota Camry resource for technical DIY guides. The last thing you want to do is to strand yourself because of a broken timing belt or busted water pump. For the full step-by-step instructions, please visit http://www.camryforums.com/how-tos/a/toyota-camry-how-to-replace-timing-belt-and-water-pump-397015

Many Camry owners dread the 60,000 mile marker because of the costly timing belt and water pump recommended maintenance interval. You will be overjoyed with the money you kept in your wallet and a real sense of accomplishment when this DIY job is finished.

The task is an arduous one that will take six or more hours. The cost for supplies will set you over $250. You’ll need a floor jack, jack stands, catch pan, shop rags, ratchet, sockets, wrenches, pulley kit, stud removal tool, and camshaft adjuster kit.

Step 1 – Jack up the Front End

Use your hydraulic floor jack to raise up the front end and place on jack stands. Be sure to use the correct locations for lifting and placement of the jack stands. Never work under your vehicle using only a floor jack for support; always use the jack stands and chock the rear wheels, both in front and behind them, unless you are lifting the entire vehicle and using all found jack stands.

Step 2 – Disconnect the battery

Lift the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Step 3 – Remove passenger Tire

It is easier if you loosen the lugs before lifting the car and then remove them after the car is in the air.

Step 4 – Drain Engine Coolant

Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. Replace the plug when finished. You will also want to drain it from the engine block as well by removing the two drain plugs on the bottom front and rear of the engine. Replace the plugs and be careful not to over-tighten when you screw them back into place.

Step 5 – Remove torque strut

Remove the torque strut, also known as the dog bone, due to the shape and size.

Step 6 – Remove A/C and Power Steering Belts

Behind the passenger wheel is an access panel that is held in place by two 10 mm bolts. Remove the bolts to get access to the air conditioning and power steering belts. Use a wrench on the tensioner pulley to create slack in the belts and remove each belt.

Step 7 – Remove torque strut

On the right side of the bracket is a bolt that is used to pivot the bracket for positioning. Just loosen this bolt.
Remove the nut positioned to the left and down a little from the pivot bolt. Once the nut is removed, the mounting bracket can be swung up and out of the way.
Two bolts are used to adjust the tension on the belt. They are at 90 degrees in relation to one another. They both need to be loosened.

The tensioner bolt on the left hand side is difficult to get to.
Loosen the adjustment bolts just enough to move the tensioner and create slack to remove the alternator belt.

Step 8 – Remove Crank Shaft Bolt

Put a long-handled wrench or breaker back onto the bolt and secure it to something solid that will not move.

Step 9 – Remove Crank Shaft Pulley

If you are extremely lucky, the pulley will come off by hand once you remove the two smaller bolts that hold it in place. You will want to use a pulley removal kit that can be had pretty cheaply. Other types of pulleys use metal grippers that can damage the teeth of the pulley.

Step 10 – Remove Timing Belt Covers

Remove the four 10 mm bolts holding the lower timing cover in place. Set this aside.
Remove the timing belt guide. Make sure to mark its orientation to the engine block.
Loosen the 10 mm timing belt plate bolt. Turn the plate 90 degrees and re-tighten the bolt so you won’t misplace it.
Remove the five 10 mm bolts holding the upper timing belt cover in place and set this aside.

Step 11 – Remove Right hand mounting bracket

With the special stud pulling kit:
Remove the two bolts and nuts that hold the bracket in place.
Place the correct stud puller socket onto the stud and remove it.

Step 12 – Remove timing belt

Before you remove the timing belt, you will have to line up the crank and camshaft positions to TDC or the 12:00 position. Replace the crankshaft bolt without the pulley and crank it until the marks like up to the TDC position. You may want to use something to make the marks more noticeable and mark their position on them. You will line the new belt up with both of these marks.
Once the marks are lined up, remove the two timing belt tensioner bolts; remove the tensioner and the belt.

VISIT http://www.camryforums.com/how-tos/a/toyota-camry-how-to-replace-timing-belt-and-water-pump-397015 FOR STEPS 13-15 of this DIY JOB

55,411
Like
Save


Comments

mike mun says:

That happen to my 2003 Camry I just trade it in for a 2015

Brian Hicks says:

2650 dollars to do it myself? For 200, I can have the work done for me. Wtf is this?

Leslie Horwinkle says:

ok, this one's crap. Step 15 replace components…..big help.

Michael Gee says:

Why in the world would I remove the fuse box? It's not explained and on the opposite side of the engine compartment.

Dennis Bedoya says:

This is not a video for a Toyota Camry they are 4 cylinders not V6, and the Camry on the pictures are the newer model witch it has the same engine that you find on the Scion Tc witch has a timing chain not a belt! This is a scam ppl don't get fool by this crap.

Michael Wilson says:

this video is fucccckkking stupid, remove the spare tyre to make more room for you to work, fuccccking what, jack it up on four axle stands, Why the fuck would you do all that bullshiiiit LOL videos a joke

Ian Ford says:

Great video, very helpful. I clearly saw what I needed to see. This is a Toyota 2.2 liter 4-cyl engine.

ChumpyChicken2 says:

Timing belt is a fucking scam!

angelisone says:

The worst video ever.
Another one not providing the year, model and engine.
You should let my 4 years daughter to the talking.

Mark Sky the Off-Grid RV Guy says:

Looks fun, mine turned into some real headaches, can't get water pump screws in correctly, crank shaft screw won't go back in, not sure how to get crank shaft back to tdc.

Sheheryar Abid says:

Good tutorial. I think it's 2az engine. Pretty easy to work on.

Will Dabeast says:

Shitty tutorial, what years? what size motor? I can do better from a Haynes.

Write a comment