You can get a better METAL handle on Amazon here for less than $15! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JBDH26/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&…
You can get a better METAL handle on Amazon here for less than $15! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JBDH26/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&…
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Also, I left the black metal sheathing dangling from its wire harness
during the job. No need to remove it completely. It dangled to the right
while the hatch was up.
The wedge technique is easy. Simply roll down back window all the way into
the hatch. Use a wedge (do not use anything that may fall into hatch). I
used a 5 gallon paint stirrer from home depot. I slipped the wedge between
window and outside of hatch. I used it also to gently pry away a wire
harness (to license plate lights) to gain clear view of latch assembly.
Then using a bent coat hanger and flash light, reach down, latched coat
hanger on latch, and pulled up. Voila.
BTW, thanks Brian for giving me motivation. It took 2 hrs. Yes, the most
challenging part was getting the darn hatch open to start the job. The
wedge technique was the easiest for me (thanks to another poster for this
suggestion).
To remove the license plate chassis with ease, ensure removal of the
license plate and its screws. After the key lock also has been unscrewed as
suggested, then pull off the license plate chassis by tugging on the entire
unit itself instead of using a flat screw driver on the edge as this leave
scratches. The entire thing just snaps off and snaps on. Getting this off
is essential to removing old latch and replacing new latch. Remember, if
old latch has cable attached (create slack – see below).
Just clarification. After removing the plastic casing as indicated by
Brian, there will be a black metal sheathing of sort you’ll need to remove
(many screws). After this sheathing is removed, it exposes a metal frame.
At this point, you’ll need to roll window up to allow access to latch. At
this point, remove grommets as I indicate above from metal frame to expose
clear access to latch’s nuts. Use a socket extension(not screw driver)to
remove the nuts. While you’re there, remove nut to lock.
Please also note that to remove the license plate chassis, you’ll also need
to unscrew the key lock mechanism. This is easily done from the inside with
a 10mm long extension like you used to remove the nuts from the old latch
as indicated in my other post (through the holes after grommets are removed
– it’s not a screw driver as indicated).
More tips: The cable itself is attached to back hatch. From the inside,
undo the plastic wire holder (over to the right) from the cable to allow
slack when changing out the latch. The cable ball bearing goes on the top
hole of latch and the cable base slips into and anchors in the other slot
of latch. You’ll have to wedge it in. Other tip include: no need to remove
license plate lights but the entire back license plate chassis needs to be
removed from the back hatch.
Just replaced mine. Tips: There was no way to go in through the latch so i
used a wedge with the window rolled down and a bent coat hanger and flash
light to pull up on the old latch. This worked. Also, if the cable
disconnects from latch, still use coat hanger bent in a small circle to
slip around the cable and ball to get latch open. After removing plastic
and black metal backing, remove 2 rubber grommets to access the latch’s 2
screws with screwdriver (no need to remove anything else).
I followed the video and got the broken handle removed but the cable had
already slipped out of the old handle and I can’t figure out how to thread
the cable into the new handle. I’ve checked every video, google image, etc.
and no luck. Do you have a picture of what the handle should look like with
the cable threaded? Thanks very much for the video, it was a huge help!
Way to go Steve! You’re the MAN!
Thanks so much for this video, Brian. Finally got the darn thing open by
fabricating an unlatching device out of an old, cheap screwdriver with vise
grips and a torch.
The cable housing end is likely over torqued from when the handle broke.
You can replace that cable from the handle-to-latch or bailing wire the
outer cable sleeve end to make the sleeve longer again.
Way to go Dave!
Hey, have you ever ran into the problem that when you hook up the new
latch, there is too much slack on the cable line which results in the cable
not being pulled as much as it needs to in order to open? Any advice on
this would be a HUGE help
I did this last night – it took 3 hours and was not as easy as it looks.
FIRST to get the back hatch open, shine a light up in the hole so and you
can see how to activate the lever to open the back door. The rest is easy
until he says to take the rear motor assembly off – IMPOSSIBLE. I just
worked around it and got the 2 bolts holding the latch off – very hard.
Getting it back together is easy. BONUS!! – AFTER DISCONNECTING AND
RECONNEDTING THE WIRES, NOW MY BACK WINDOW WORKS!!!!
Dorman makes an all metal one I bought it a carquest. .. I’m about to
install it tomorrow. .
No.
I just bought a replacement. Unfortunately, the latch is made from plastic.
If I buy one from metal, how can I be sure that it isn’t made from recycled
metal mixed with copper, thus making it weak. BTW, is it possible just to
drill a screw into the broken part of the handle and repair it that way,
without taking it off??
Had to do that same thing and they do work awesome.
Got my “METAL” handle on ebay in 3 days for $21. Because of this video, I
had the confidence of getting past that MF opening the tailgate, took me 20
minutes of cussing. Moving the power window was a stumble also. BE SURE TO
START THIS PROJECT WITH THE WINDOW ROLLED UP. When you get to the inside,
the power window removes with 4 x 10mm bolts, the TRICK IS TO THEN SLIDE
THE WHOLE MECHANISM DOWN AS A UNIT about 5 inches to make access to the
latch. I did the whole thing in 2 hours. THanks
@slmitc31 You’re absolutly right on all counts. However, despite my errors
I posted this anyway. I knew I’d get criticisms, but I’m ok with that. I
don’t have the time to create masterpieces. It just requires more time than
I currently have. What little time I have to give. I will give it anyway in
hopes it will help some one. Enjoy.
This was incredibly helpful, thanks. rather than deal with all the skinned
knuckles people talk about trying to get those two 10mm nuts holding the
latch itself in, i took out the 4 nuts on the window mechanism (window was
just barely cracked) and was able to move it out of the way, making the
rest of the job a piece of cake. $30 and an hour or so instead of the
hundreds the stealer wanted with OEM parts and their shop
rates…….priceless. Thanks again
I’ve heard of people removing the panel from the inside, but it’s not an
easy thing to do without breaking it. Sadly I bet I could get it in 5
minutes if I tried, but I don’t know what to say that I haven’t said. Be
sure you’re using a light so you can see what you’re doing.
About every 2-3 years the factory handle breaks! The dealership charges
about $268 or more to replace it. This would have been my third one and was
looking for an alternative. Long story short…I purchased the OEM handle
for $32 on EBAY (free shipping!!!) and thanks to this video…I did it
myself in about 2 hours. Thanks for posting this video.
Thank you so much! Your video was a huge help as was your advice on the
metal latch.
Thanks! Saved me a ton of time with the tool tips. Took me 1.5 hrs as a
first-timer.
Good luck!
hey i love the video very helpful i got a big problem i have 2002 and the
rear plate has flat head screws that have been on since new and they are
rusted and wont budge any suggestions????
why they make those shit ass plastic
Sorry. That was a really vague question. It was more of a question as to
the door latch. What changes when the window doesn’t go down? What should I
expect to be harder to do? Does it get in the way when removing and then
installing the latch?
Brian, you are the man. I found that all the info. that you gave me to be
just what I needed to get the job done. Opening the rear door advice was
priceless. The part can be bought on Ebay for less than $20. I also used my
friend JB Weld to give the latch added strength in the area which seems to
break. I sure appreciate you for your ability and the desire to video and
you tube. May God Bless you! Jake.
I missed the access holes. That would have saved some aggravation in
moving the motor.
hello all. to make it 100% faster. remove the rubber plugs on the top of
rear deck panel and accesst the nuts thru there. You don’t have to remove
all the motors etc. like this vid.
We’ve tried the same thing as you said, but after closing the door with the
new handle, it wouldn’t open. What can we do to reopen it?
thank you
The reason it went thru several latch handles is because its a freakin
Toyota its a piece of JUNK
Verify your lock is unlocked. If it is and your handle is metal- then you
need to get through the interior panel by whatever means necessary.
The link to purchase the latch from Amazon is NOT METAL, even though it is
described as a metal replacement part. Does anyone know where I can buy one
that IS metal??
You’re welcome- way to go!
To help, so you don’t have to replace this again, try a metal one – not the
plastic ones – from 1A Auto, part #1ABTH00049, FOR $49.95. sure it costs
more, but I’ve replaced mine 4 times since 2001, just installed this metal
one. On the 2001 Sequoia, you’ll need to remove your license plate and then
with a needle nose, pinch and push out the license plate instert on the
hatch. This makes it real easy to replace.
Guess I have to order the wait for my handle. Bought the one on Amazon. All
metal baby!
That’s correct. Thanks.
You’re welcome man!