Flushing the brake fluid is a good idea when changing the pads. This keeps the brake fluid fresh, and prevents the rubber brake hoses from deteriorating prematurely. Using normal brake grease on clips/pins and anti-squeal paste on back of pads is also fine. You don’t have to use anti-seize in these areas, but it’s ok also.
The reason for bleeding is to get rid of air in the brake lines, so your brake pedal doesn’t feel spongy when you step on the brakes. As a result, you do replace a few spoonfuls of fluid by doing this, but that is not the main reason for bleeding your brakes.
The reason why your front pads are fine is because they were changed once already. The rule of thumb is you usually replace your front pads twice before replacing your rear pads.
The thread lock is only used so the bolts don’t loosen due to normal vibration while driving. You will not have any problem removing them next time you change the pads.
Thank you gentleman! That was a very informative video on how to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 camry. I’m a mechanic, so after watching your video, I was able to change the pads with no problem. Removing and replacing them went smooth as silk. The only thing I would do different, as vivalv59 posted earlier, I would put the jack stands in the normal frame area. Putting them there is much safer. Other than that, I would not change a thing.
Very good video Tnanks. I have never used thread lock on the caliper bolts when chaning brakes. I do not remember seeing that in the chilton manuals that I have used. Do you ever have difficulty remving the bolts after using this?
Also I bought my 20007 Toyota Camry at 50,000 miles and at 54,000 miles the rear pads are low but the fronts are still fine. I have never seen that before. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the excellent video.
Second question.. great video by the way!! When you say, “bleed until there is no more air bubbles”, is there absolutely going to be bubbles there? And how did they get there.. are the bubbles created when pushing back the piston, or from the previous normal braking process?
I thought the reason for bleeding was to actually get rid of a few spoonfuls of oil, because the oil doesn’t circulate in the braking system and the piston always operates in the same small pool of oil, so to get some fresh oil in that area..?
Informative. I replaced my brake pads, after watching the video (also flushed all brake fluid). Couple comments: I didn’t need for the brake line clamp tool, just pushed the pistons in and removed some brake fluid from the MC prior to ensure it doesn’t overflow, simple. Recommend using the” normal” frame area for the jack stands, “much safer.” I used normal brake grease (clips/pins), not the high temp anti-seize grease. Used anti-squeal paste on back of pads. My brakes are nice and quiet 🙂
Is it a must, no. When you push the brake caliper piston in the brake fluid will simply be pushed back towards the master cylinder (MC). Yo will need to keep your eye on the MC to make sure it doesn’t overflow. I always etract some fluid from the MC prior to starting the work. On a nother note; it’s a good idea to flush the fluid when you change the pads, then you will need to open the bleeder…
){kind=link}
Anti-seize compound is not recommended (08:41) instead use clear silicone paste
Flushing the brake fluid is a good idea when changing the pads. This keeps the brake fluid fresh, and prevents the rubber brake hoses from deteriorating prematurely. Using normal brake grease on clips/pins and anti-squeal paste on back of pads is also fine. You don’t have to use anti-seize in these areas, but it’s ok also.
The reason for bleeding is to get rid of air in the brake lines, so your brake pedal doesn’t feel spongy when you step on the brakes. As a result, you do replace a few spoonfuls of fluid by doing this, but that is not the main reason for bleeding your brakes.
The reason why your front pads are fine is because they were changed once already. The rule of thumb is you usually replace your front pads twice before replacing your rear pads.
The thread lock is only used so the bolts don’t loosen due to normal vibration while driving. You will not have any problem removing them next time you change the pads.
Thank you gentleman! That was a very informative video on how to change the rear brake pads on a 2007 camry. I’m a mechanic, so after watching your video, I was able to change the pads with no problem. Removing and replacing them went smooth as silk. The only thing I would do different, as vivalv59 posted earlier, I would put the jack stands in the normal frame area. Putting them there is much safer. Other than that, I would not change a thing.
Very good video Tnanks. I have never used thread lock on the caliper bolts when chaning brakes. I do not remember seeing that in the chilton manuals that I have used. Do you ever have difficulty remving the bolts after using this?
Also I bought my 20007 Toyota Camry at 50,000 miles and at 54,000 miles the rear pads are low but the fronts are still fine. I have never seen that before. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the excellent video.
Very good valuable information thanks for posting
Second question.. great video by the way!! When you say, “bleed until there is no more air bubbles”, is there absolutely going to be bubbles there? And how did they get there.. are the bubbles created when pushing back the piston, or from the previous normal braking process?
I thought the reason for bleeding was to actually get rid of a few spoonfuls of oil, because the oil doesn’t circulate in the braking system and the piston always operates in the same small pool of oil, so to get some fresh oil in that area..?
Informative. I replaced my brake pads, after watching the video (also flushed all brake fluid). Couple comments: I didn’t need for the brake line clamp tool, just pushed the pistons in and removed some brake fluid from the MC prior to ensure it doesn’t overflow, simple. Recommend using the” normal” frame area for the jack stands, “much safer.” I used normal brake grease (clips/pins), not the high temp anti-seize grease. Used anti-squeal paste on back of pads. My brakes are nice and quiet 🙂
Is it a must, no. When you push the brake caliper piston in the brake fluid will simply be pushed back towards the master cylinder (MC). Yo will need to keep your eye on the MC to make sure it doesn’t overflow. I always etract some fluid from the MC prior to starting the work. On a nother note; it’s a good idea to flush the fluid when you change the pads, then you will need to open the bleeder…
why do.u.need to open the.nipple of.the.brake fluid?
GREAT VIDEO 🙂
Thank you