How to remove and replace a Toyota Manual Locking hub. This video shows how I pull the manual locking hub off a Toyota 4×4 truck. The video shows my techniqu…
How to remove and replace a Toyota Manual Locking hub. This video shows how I pull the manual locking hub off a Toyota 4×4 truck. The video shows my techniqu…
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Sorry, I don’t have a lot of experience with the Tacoma front ends. Generally though, when a wheel bearing is going bad, you will hear a lot of noise and/or vibration when you load the bad bearing going around a corner. If the left outer wheel bearing was going bad you would hear it in a right hand turn (body roll loading the left outer wheel bearing), etc… Slop in the wheel when you jack it up and rock it back and forth is another indicator also…
Great video. Very informative. What about the front wheel bearings? I have a 98 tacoma 4 x 4 2.7. I am a little mechanical. I just did the front brakes and rotors, new starter etc. I don’t know how to tell if the wheels bearing are good or bad. I suspect that the front right might have a problem. When I spun the wheel after replacing the brake it sounded a little rough and it wasn’t brake noise. Can you advise on that?
Thank you for the video!
There’s a blind hole in the end of the burfield stub shaft that’s threaded 8×1.25 (IIRC). You can stick a bolt in it and grab that with pliers to help pull the axle out a little bit when you go to install the snapring on the end of the axle. That hole can also be used to attach a puller to the end of the birfield stub shaft if you hare having a hard time pulling it out of the knuckle ball. There shouldn’t be a bolt in in when you are driving around.
What happened to the 12mm nut on the end of the axle? When you took the hub dial off
in the first minute there should have been a 12mm nut in the center of the axle.
I love the 2x nuts backed against each other mechanism…I think I’m going to find that useful a few times!
i have superwinch locking hubs but changing to warn will i need any other parts or they’re the same pls.help thx
The dial itself has a shaped o-ring that you should put a light coat of grease on. Also a nice light coat of grease on all the friction parts inside the hub. Anywhere you get metal to metal contact should have some grease.
Thanks Pete, awesome video. One thing I’m wondering – should the hub dial/cap have any grease on it before it’s put back on?
Pete, greatly appreciate the quality of your video. your experience comes through. look forward to more ,as you’re a great communicator,concise and in depth with quality info . you’re a very good teacher .really hit the spot for me . thanks muchly
aussie jim
Love ur videos. I just bought a 1981 Toyota 4×4 and I want to rebuilt the whole truck I’m not really mechanically inclined but your videos are the best thing I have found its like having a personal teacher. Thank u for ur videos and I hope u post more on the future.
There’s two springs in the hub dial assembly (three if you count the detent ball spring) There’s a big spring That pushes the clutch into the hub when you turn the dial. There’s a spring between the pawl and clutch that is used to bind the pawl to the clutch, which allows the dial to retract the clutch when set to “free”. I would bet that somene screwed up the install of the spring between the pawl and the clutch. Send me a message through my channel and I can get you pics of how it goes.
When I took mine apart the spring came out with the hub end cap now when I put it back together I cant twist to lock or unlock. If I install it on free it wont twist to lock and the same if I install it in the lock position.
thank you for taking time to reply…my problem is im in Sudan…and we are bombarded with chinese imitation parts….i was thinking of maintaining the original toyota one i have, but guess i will need to find a way to ship one in…..thanx again…..and great tuts
I don’t have any familiarity with the Land Cruiser series. Master and slave cylinders are pretty inexpensive here so I just replace them as they fail. I’ve never even tried to get the parts to do a rebuild. Should basically involve pulling the guts, honing the cylinder bore, and then new seals. But where I am master or slave are less than $30 USD new so I just get a new one. I even carry a new spare of each in the parts box when wheeling…
Thank you for the video….need help….i have a slowly leaking clutch (94 vx 80 series manual 5 speed)….any vid to show how to dismantle and repair master/slave cylinder?….much appreicated
I recently moved into a property with a huge shop so that I can do more filming. The goal is this summer to do more Toyota repair videos and front hub bearings is on the list.
awsome video very helpuful although i needed to know how to tighten the bearings
Yeah, the “tapered punch” method described in the book has always been a bit of a puzzler, you’re going to ding something up every time…
Very helpful. Great way to get the cone washers out. The way they said in my repair manual was different and I was damaging the hub.
Thanks for making this video mate. watching walkthroughs like this are a big help.
Hmmmmm… that’s a tough one. Maybe a wheel bearing starting to go south on you? I had one once that went bad and it would make a hellacious sound going around a corner when the outer wheel bearing would get loaded. Check for wheel well liner coming off, or something else rubbing a tire. Tough to diagnose sounds over the web…lol… But I have helped a few folks pin down some probs before…
I forgot to mention the rub is not constant. On my 15 min drive home it will happen 2-4 times 10-30 second bursts. And I havent had it happen on one of our recent 50 degree days just when its cold. I havent had it happen in 4wd but it will snow tomorrow here and I’ll have plenty of time to test that out. thnx for the quick response!
…continued…pull the front driveline and then run with the hubs locked and see if there’s noise. In not, then you’ve isolated it. Removing the DL is easy so that’s why I’d go there first. If that doesn’t do it, unlock one hub, then the other. You’re just using process of elimination before you have to dig into the guts of the front end. I’ll be doing a video on the locking hub rebuild process soon….
As long as the noise only happens when you have the hubs locked it is most likely being caused by something in the front axle as engaging the hubs locks in the birfields and inner shafts and starts spinning the differential. There really isn’t much that can go wrong in the hubs themselves. You could also have a bent axle housing and one of the birfield bells is rubbing the inside of the knuckle ball. There’s lots of choices here, but I would try pulling the front driveline…continued…
Does it make the sound when 4wd is engaged also? Or just when in 2wd with the hubs locked? If it’s only in 2wd with the hubs locked I would take a hard look at your front driveline. When you use 2wd with the hubs locked in you’re putting spin in the driveshaft from the front axle instead of from the transfercase. This can cause some pretty strange sounds. Another thing might be wheel bearings, or carrier bearings in the differential. continued in next reply…
Pete, I recently bought my first toy pickup and now when I’m driving with hubs locked but in 2wd when it’s cold out (30 or below) I hear a loud rubbing sound coming from my drivers front wheel area. I took off the wheel and looked around, tugged on things. Nothing seemed loose. I’m wondering if the vibrating and rubbing could be a hub going bad. When I slow down the rubbing sound does too. What do you think?
The haynes manual is like a grade-school reader. The factory service manual (FSM) is like a graduate level textboox. Trust me, if you can get your hands on a factory service manual you will never pick up a haynes manual again. The FSM breaks down every single part of a repair in detail with either a picture or an illustration for each step. They are awesome to work from.
@WheeliePete well i have a haynes book with that in it but its not down to detail. I ll rebuilt it again one day. thanks for the reply!
I’m sorry, I don’t have any of the auto-hubs laying around. I usually yank them off switch to locking hubs on 2nd and 3rd gen trucks. What year are you dealing with? I may be able to e-mail you a page from a factory service manual on reassembly and / or an exploded diagram if I have the right year…
You wouldn’t happen to have any auto hubs you could make a vid on do you? My hub was replaced wrong so my 4×4 wont work
Nice one bud, you know your stuff. I’m watching ’cause I plan on converting my ’89 stock auto hubs to manual. I’m excited to get them babies on, so I can realize I need 4X4 once I’m in a puddle.
Hello WheeliePate, thanx very mauch to try to teach us about your experience on hub locks. I have Land Cruiser prado 70 series that uses electrick hub locks, iam not happy with them, i would like to convert them to manual locks. what do have to do? I just buy a manual kit and essemble it or is necessary to altere something on hub host at may car? thanx i iam sorry for may break english, iam from Mozambique and i peak portuguese.
Cant find inbox icon anywhere bro wher eis it located at.ty.
Hey David, I sent you a private message. Check your inbox.