How to replace the rear wheel bearing assembly on a 2001 to 2006 Toyota Camry..not a fun job if you live in an area with road salt is used..torque for the re…
How to replace the rear wheel bearing assembly on a 2001 to 2006 Toyota Camry..not a fun job if you live in an area with road salt is used..torque for the re…
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Had the same problem with a Highlander, hub bearing seized to backing assy.
Inserted a solid steel rod through one of bolt removal holes so that it
was resting against the backing plate close to the bearing , look closely
to determine where to put it for best effect, it must be in the correct
place, placed a heavy steel plate on the floor and rested other end of the
steel rod on the steel floor plate. Then hit down on the protruding lip of
the hub bearing assy in the area directly above where the rod is resting on
the opposite side, Used a large hammer, after about 4 solid strikes from
the hammer it started to move, 4 or 5 more and it was out. Did not remove
the brake shoes, or anything else. Do not put much strain on the brake
cable.
I’ve been struggling with getting the bearing out of a 2008 Corolla. 4
bolts in the back came out nicely, but the thing is welded in place. Been
killing it with PB Buster and a BFH, to no avail. I don’t have an angle
grinder or anything. Any recommendations on getting this thing out?
Thank you! Canadian much? Newfie in florida has a 09 highlander, similar
set up. Why did my rear hubs fail at 80,000 miles? Who knows. The
description is top notch, you saved me 300$ labour at the shop!
I did mine with a 4 inch 3/8 bolt a nut and washer…Along with a slide
hammer…
Took like 10 minutes because this is actually the real way to do it.
thanks for the video…I was trying (e.g. blow torch, hammer w/mallet, used
penetrating fluid, but wrong ratchet socket) to get the bolts of my
bearings, but would later get advice from friends that I didn’t have to as
it was still working good.
lol..sounds like you lucked out of having to replace them
Grease contact points of e brake pads
I put the anti seize in the bolt holes…didn’t want the bolts to touch the
pads while installing with anti seize on them
It may have helped a bit..it was pretty rusty though
there is a website called “boltscience” .I did a lot of reading on there a
few years ago when a friend and I disagreed on using oil on lug nuts..I
said it may cause them to loosen..after researching this I found that as
long as only the threads (not under the bolt face where it meets the
surface)oil/ antisieze will not significantly alter torque specs..if too
much is used in a closed threaded hole it can cause a hydraulic resistance
inside the bolt hole..so used sparingly it should be no issue
you may want to re-think using anti-seize on those bolts. the specified
torque is 45 lbft with dry clean threads. with anti-seize on the bolts when
torquing to 45 lbft you’ve gone over the spec since anti-seize is a
lubricant.
Thanks for the link..pretty cool method he used by rebolting the caliper
mount to the hub….I have a slide hammer but didn’t use it once I saw the
state of the bearing and hub…The mechanic in the video is in Japan where
there is no road salt…I will remember that trick if my neighbour needs
the other side done..I’ll try anything to avoid a recurrence of that
nightmare 🙂
Why no anti seize on hub bolts
its a lot easier to use a breaker bar and a pipe then use the wrench
It sure isn’t a fun design to work on