A step by step video on replacing the timing belt, water pump, idlers, and tensioner on a 2008 Suzuki Forenza (Chevy Optra, GM Daewoo Lacetti) http://youtu.b…
A step by step video on replacing the timing belt, water pump, idlers, and tensioner on a 2008 Suzuki Forenza (Chevy Optra, GM Daewoo Lacetti) http://youtu.b…
You must be logged in to post a comment.
){kind=link}
Oh yeah , get some air pneumatic tools I see you have a compressor.thanks again amigo!
It is not 18 pound feet! It is 18 foot pounds. Also good work ! Thanks for the video
I hope its not gates #42408 cause that’s what I am getting for my forenza through rockauto.com LOL
The tensioner is spring loaded iirc, but the spring won’t come out unless you completely destroy the tensioner. If the threads for the tensioner bolt were stripped you would never be able to get the bolt to tighten. The process of tensioning the belt is critical and needs to be done as shown. I highly recommend the use of a quality torque wrench for tightening down all the timing belt components. You say the arrow slips, does it return to its correct position when you reach cylinder #1 TDC?
Hello, i am having trouble with tensioner, Is there a spring behind it? someone told me there may be and i lost it, Everytime i get it right like the marks and tighen 13mm and i turn crank it slips(the arrow), is tht because i never torqued it even tho i tighten crap out of it, i feel like i put more than 18lb on it, or do u think its a missing spring or maybe i stripped 13mm bolt, or are u leaning toward i need to torque it right? I even bought a new one and it does same thing, thanks 4 ur help
if your new pump doesn’t have the locating tab on its outer circular circumference like the original then just rotate the pump to any position where it doesn’t interfere with your tensioner and you should be ok.
I have a after market water pump and is not the exact one as yours. The water pump I have came with a GATES forenza timing kit, and has 2 weep holes. I tried placing both weep holes at the 12 o’clock position and both times the arrow from the tensioner is hitting up against the water pump. I am pretty its the orientation of the water pump as well, but I just can’t seem to find the correct position for the pump. I put the old water pump back in, and it works fine as that pump locks in place.
The arrow shouldn’t come into contact with the water pump. Make sure your water pump is installed in the correct orientation (rotation) as per the video. Also be sure that the 13 mm tensioner bolt is not tightened down so much that it does not allow for adjustment of the tensioner. Make sure that the tensioner arrow is pointing at the correct starting position as in the video. Beyond that’d I’d inspect the tensioner itself to make sure it is not defective.
Hello, Grjr, thanks for your videos. I am having problems with my tensioner arrow not moving. I have the bolt in the middle and I keep rotating the 6mm hex around the center bolt. All it does it spin and spin until the arrow hits up against the water pump and then I can’t rotate the tensioner any longer. What am i doing wrong?
Great videos, thanks very much!
Thanks for the video, also works for my 2004 Chev Optra.
I watch on Youtube many videos about cars repairs but this one was the best that I saw.
GRJR made a such very good job that I believe not even dealers will be capable to do some video like that. It was amazing how he showed all step by step with such detailed explanation and precision. I liked the way that he started with all necessary tools identified by size and colors. I have Suzuki Forenza and a never saw some good video like this one. Congratulations for this video.
Thanks for sharing your video 🙂
thank you
Thanks for the video, I have learned something from you. Greetings from UK and Portugal.
Excellent vdeo! Thanks for posting. I’ve got the same engine in a 2006 Chevrolet Evanda and i’m planning to do this same operation in the summer. Greetings from Finland!
A cam locking tool sounds like it would be useful, I don’t happen to have one so I had to struggle with the cams while installing the timing belt.
Could you have locked the cam with a locking tool by removing cover and placing the tool on the cam. I’m getting ready to do this to a 2009 chevrolet aveo with a ecotec engine. Liked your way but would you recommend the locking tool on the cam and crank ?
Great Video. Thanks for sharing with the rest of us!
Great video does this also work for 2005 chev optra my timing belt didn’t break I am thinking may have jumped because car will not start seems like no compression. When car stopped it was like a switch was turned off didn’t make a sound. If the belt did jump do I use the same procedure with the timing marks to reinstall
When I did it I just pulled the timing belt over the last pulley by force while having someone else make sure the cams were not working against me. I have heard of other people removing the tensioner and then installing it after the belt is routed around all the other sprockets but you would have to be very careful not to cross thread the tensioner bolt while installing it. I don’t know how well that method works as I have never tried it.
Thanks for the video, I’m at the point of getting the timing belt back on, but I can’t seem to get it over the tensioner pully. I took out the spark plugs so that I’m not fighiting against the compression of the engine to get TDC.
What was the final trick to getting the timing belt on? I’ve even used the zip ties to hold the belt on the cam sprokets.
The crankshaft locks up before it reaches the TDC mark and doesn’t want to go any further? Did the timing belt break on the engine you’re working on? You can try removing the spark plugs if it is the compression you are fighting against…
what if i have the cam sprockets lined up but my crank wont line up in the bottom? like the motor wont turn enough, bent valve maybe?
try rotate the coolant pump counterclockwise to release the tension on the timing belt to put the belt on. then rotate it back
Oh, I wish you were close by, I’d pay you to do my 2004 Forenza. I liked how careful and thorough you were.
Excellent video. Thank you for doing that. You’re awesome. Now it’s time to do mine :((
Thanks for the comment 🙂
Great videos. The only real tough part was stretching that belt enough to get it on. I wouldn’t have tried it without your video. You saved me some big bucks. Thanks!
Thanks, iirc the jack I used is a honda scissor jack
Great Video!!. What kind of jack did you use to move the engine up?
The engine had cooled down by the time I installed the timing belt. The temperature of the engine shouldn’t really effect the timing belt tension in any significant way.
have you made the timong belt replacement with hot or cool engine? And how do you think engine temperature could affect the tension of the timing belt?
The car had about 80k miles when the belt was first changed so the belt was overdue 20k miles. The belt did have cracking along the backside. It’s risky to go over the 60k mile replacement interval.
Mine is at about 48,000 miles 2007. did you have any cracks or signs of wear on timing belt/pulleys ?