GS500 Starting Problem and Generator Rotor Repair

GS500 Starting Problem and Generator Rotor Repair

Sometimes the generator rotor comes loose. The starter gear is attached to it. When that happens, your bike makes a whirring sound and won’t turn over. Here’…

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Stan Scheire says:

This repair video is one of the best! Very clear & extra informative.
I wonder, the method of locking the gears with an allen wrench, to torque
the crank bolt:
did you ever break a sprocket tooth/cauze a problem? Do you only do it to
smaller bikes, or do you use it all the time?

Kind regards from Belgium 

weedahoe says:

That looked like an electric HF impact gun. Do you like it?

Lajko1 says:

If you ever had to get at the stator, this is how you would get to it and
button things back up. Once in a while a stator will burn out. When opened
up, I was pointing out the stator. A couple bolts to remove and install a
new one. I should have mentioned to insure the magnets didn’t pick up any
stray bits of metal.

Batpimp says:

do you mean electrical power or horsepower? when do you lose the power?
when you start the engine or on the freeway? for better answers to your
questisn join GSTWINS.com

OJ A says:

I tried private messaging you but there is some kind of lock that prevents
me from sending you one. Can you please PM me?

scottiek711 says:

Great video, thank you for posting it!!

ratbike rider says:

It was made from a bolt and worked fine on the first rotor . I tried to
post link to thread on GS twins but youtube is beyond awkward and wont let
me . Search GS500E stripped / damaged crank threads and it should come up .

Lajko1 says:

Oh, what was the reason for removing the rotor? That is the same part for
all years. Was the one on the good engine bad?

x0rify says:

Thanks i will do it. The last time when one of the forks was disassembled,
because of a leakage from the seal, instead of oil there was black dirt,
because of the huge wear inside the fork. I suppose the other will be the
same inside. May be the fork oil have never been replaced.

Singhking01 says:

Thank you very much. I got it fixed just by following your video. My bike
was in my back yard for about a year. THANK You

Lajko1 says:

I’ve been following it on gstwins. Seems others are giving good advice to
fix the threads.

Lajko1 says:

What did you make the spacer from? Sounds like soft steel. Best to make one
from a hard, steel bolt. I probably should have stressed that. Soft bolts
from Home Depot are too soft compared to the hardened steel bolts used on a
motorcycle. An old axle bolt or bolt from the shock assembly can work very
well. Use a dremel or other cutter as they are too hard for a hack saw.

Ricky Ellison says:

Looking for the handlebar setup thats in video hate the standard setup on
the 05 gs500f

Martijn Poppe says:

Thnx for the video! Maybe i will need it one time 🙂 i hope not 😛

Bede Okoro says:

One problem I can’t understand is my loss of power…. I changed my
battery, fixed my flywheel, changed my oil and I can start it if jumped by
a car but it doesn’t last long. Please help soon this is my work bike

Lajko1 says:

Not sure about messages. Are you a member of gstwins dot com? I’m adidasguy
there so if you were to sign up there, we can message back & forth.

weedahoe says:

Thanks. Ive been on and off the fence about getting one for some time. Next
time I will pick one up

Lajko1 says:

Best to log on to gstwins.com. This video isn’t really a support thread for
GS500’s. Your regulator is probably bad or battery. Lots of help on
gstwins.com Get out your volt meter and check things according to the
gstwins WIKI.

Lajko1 says:

When installing forks, that spacer on the lower right fork MUST be loose
when tightening the axle. That lets the forks settle in to being parallel.
Yours might have excessive wear because the forks are bent or weren’t
allowed to “float straight” before that lower right fork spacer on the axle
bolt was tightened.

Lajko1 says:

Yep – many thanks for them!

SawyerScarff1994 says:

I was wondering what oil you usually use when you change the oil. I need to
change my oil and was wondering what is the best oil for the GS500. Thanks

ratbike rider says:

Yeah im trying to get my hands on a tap at the moment .

Batpimp says:

haha love that you have a long hammer IPA there. Hopefully one of mine that
i brought over!

Lajko1 says:

Yes, it is from the disposable tool company. Works GREAT! I couldn’t do
forks without it. Great tool. Lots of power.

x0rify says:

And what can i do, which parts should i replace with new ones?

x0rify says:

Do you know if it is possible to change the fork oil of a Suzuki GS500 1996
model without disassembling and removing the forks. I think i saw on one
video a screw on the bottom part of the fork where the wheel is mounted. It
would be good to change the oil only by removing the front wheel and
unscrew the screws below.

Lajko1 says:

That makes me feel good that I helped get your bike back on the road. Ride
safe! Remember: rubber side goes DOWN, shiny side goes UP.

Lajko1 says:

Stock oil for engines that need oil to flush them out for 100 miles or so
(like engines that have been sitting for a year). For regular permanent oil
I use AmsOil

ratbike rider says:

Swapping parts from a blown engine to a good one ….all went well
stripping the blown engine . But the damned 36 mm spacer bent inside the
shaft on the good engine when i removing the rotor :(. Drilling i out bit
by bit :(.

Bede Okoro says:

Great videos help me with a few issues

Bede Okoro says:

I believe its electrical. When the bike is started I can go for a ride but
2mins later she loses power. Most if not every time it cuts off while
riding, so I start again in mid run and afterwards when I give a little or
lot of throttle there a loss in in power shown on my rpms and then she
shuts off I will upload a video on my page so you can see

Lajko1 says:

That handlebar setup is the OEM clip-ons that were sold in Europe and other
places besides the USA from n1990-1996. If you log onto gstwins.com and
post a question about it you will be referred to all the info about them
and how to get them.

Lajko1 says:

Forks do not have a drain. The screw on the bottom right is to tighten a
floating spacer once the wheel is on and the forks all tightened up in the
triple clamps. It is best to remove and drain by hanging upside down and
pumping a couple times. Otherwise, support bike and remove the fork caps.
Suck out as much oil as you can then put in new to the required level which
depends on the springs you have.

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