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2015 Outback. Soft intermittent clicking when turning the steering wheel either direction. Clock spring?
The torq solutions solid ball bearing replacement is a great upgrade for anyone looking for a performance option its more exspensive than oem but i love the feel of it with also upgrading the shifter bushing a solid setup with almost zero play but if you just want a simple replacement the oem is the way to go
I've been putting up with this in my RA forever – you have given me no excuse not to do the job now.
Any special recommendation on a 2017 Forester? Thanks much.
I have a 2004 Forester x and the driver's side rear cam cap seal is weeping oil and dripping onto the header. How much approx do you think a shop would charge to replace it? It looks like you would have to loosen the head bolts, pry out the old one, insert the new one and retorque.
It's in an awkward position I don't fancy tackling myself. I'm wondering if I cleaned the area with brake cleaner and apply high temp rtv to try and seal it.
Much appreciated, I love my Subaru and your videos.
Make sure it's oem I had a cheap one break on me and stck in 3rd gear
It is the worst doing this in a drive way and with the wrong punches
I have a 2001 Forester I found a bunch of these shifter Parts aftermarket, in the back of the car and was wondering what the hell is this, and then I had to do my clutch and then I looked and I'm like oh oh okay so I put them in with the new clutch and my shifter is rock-solid now.
On some Subaru's the unit is serviceable (i.e. there is a nut and bolt holding the two pieces together) and you can buy the bushing separately and swap them out.
On others it is not. But you can easily cut the fixed bolt off and replace it with a stronger nut and bolt. That way in the future you can replace the bushings easily without having to drive the roll pins out.
Where I'm from Subaru sells the whole joint for $140 ($90USD) so it's a waste of money replacing the whole part just because the bushings are no good.
It's no different to suspension bushings i.e. Why would you replace say, a whole control arm or sway bar just because the bushings are worn.
Here's my tip to make this job easier and cheaper.
For the $40 you paid for the entire joint you could get new bushings, new roll pins, nut/ bolt, loctite and a proper set of roll pin punches to do the job.
It's way easier to remove the transmission mounts, (only 4 bolts) so you can get better access to strike the roll pin rather than tapping at it for ages at weird angles.
It then literally takes a few taps to knock out the inner and outer roll pins. The added benefit is you can also do an inspection on the transmission mounts while they are off as they also wear out.
There are quite a number of people on youtube showing you how to do this job who spend ages tapping at awkward angles with the wrong type of punch and eventually getting it out.
A proper Roll pin punch has a convex tip and edge. The edge sits on top of the roll pin to allow you to drive the pin out while the rounded tip sits inside the roll pin preventing the punch from slipping off when you strike it.
OMG… my 03 shifter feels like a broomstick in a bucket of jello. I am ordering a replacement link RIGHT NOW. Thank you for this!!!
I replaced this u-joint on my 2004 Impreza wagon about 2 years ago. Unfortunately, I went with a cheap ebay option (was around $20) and the shifter is now back to being sloppier than ever. Definitely going with an OEM joint this time!
I'm moving to SC soon!
My car has been undriveable because I tired to do it myself, IT WONT COME OFF, IT CANT COME OFF, I HAD THE GREASE BOILING ON THE FORK SHAFT AND IT DOSNT MOVE
I'm envious of your ,
Rust & rot free vehicles