Justin at All wheel Drive Auto, explains how to prepare a cylinder head on a Subaru, when replacing head gaskets. He shows both the wrong way to do it and th…
Justin at All wheel Drive Auto, explains how to prepare a cylinder head on a Subaru, when replacing head gaskets. He shows both the wrong way to do it and th…
You must be logged in to post a comment.
){kind=link}
If 50Ra is typical finish requirement for block finish… what type of grit
paper would you need for a job like this 600?? Thats a fairly rough finish
even for machining standard…
thanks for your clear explanations. us simple-minded folk really appreciate
it
What grit sandpaper do you use for final block sanding step? same grit
throughout process?
Hey Justin, my subaru is currently in the shop for a hybrid swap and my
mechanic mentioned if i wanted a standard Resurface for the heads or a
“high” performance resurface.. could you explain the difference is?
:S
400, than 600, sometime even finer, what ever it takes to make them mirror
like, yes same process on the block
Ugh… take it to a machine shop. $40 and PERFECTLY FLAT
From my experience as an automotive engineer and machinist. I agree with
justin. The plastic wheel will destroy the aluminum surface. Before you
pull the “plastic can not hurt metal” card just think about how fast those
bristiles are impacting that aluminum
220, than 400 than 600 as needed
You need to use a Straight edge and feeler gauges to check for warp
What grade sand paper do you use on the heads and do you also repeat this
same process on the surface of the block?
Hey justin, I have read your articles on HG failure and they are really
informative and I really appreciate the time and effort u put in. I am from
Australia and own a 2002 Outback(EJ251 engine) with 150k miles, got no a HG
problem. however there is another issue, whenever i try to accelerate in
2nd gear or above, there is a slight delay and a knocking noise from under
the car. I suspect the prop shaft cv joint. is that something you encounter
on customers cars from that era as well. cheers
Great tip Justin! That’s a way better method for in-shop cleaning. What do
you use to clear the debris left from sanding? (whiz wheel’s send it into
the air and everywhere) I know aluminum dust is a major contributor to
Alzheimer disease and memory loss. How do you clean it without breathing
it? (love your stuff- just subscribed)
awesome justin, i haven’t had to do gaskets in a long time, last set done i
replaced the gaskets and still overheated, found out the block was warped.
what you did is exactly what my father did to clean up the old gasket
residue.
how do you know if you need to send the head to a machine shop(aka warped)
what about the block side? same procedure?
I have been doing heads that way for years and years works awsome
u saved me lots of money thanks ; )
A failed head gasket doesn’t mean your engine is bad.. Granted, it can be
an expensive repair, but much cheaper than a new engine or a loan on a new
car! After replacing your gasket, your engine may continue to run for
another 200K+
Thats a pretty silly statement in my opinion but to each there own, I
sincerely hope what ever you replace it with doesnt let you down.
Id tell you but I forget, In all seriousness we encourage the use of a
respirator type mask when doing any type of sanding, we have a 3m mask with
replaceable filters. Hi pressure soap and water parts washer for final
clean.
As long as you are careful and clean up any debris carefully there will not
be an issue.
Justin, Great tip! Thanks. what grit of sand paper are you using?
Justin, 2 questions about the block. How do you prepare the block surfaces
for the gaskets? How do you keep the sanding crud out of a block that still
has the pistons inside? I just purchased my repair parts from you. Thank
you.
I always made it a habit to just get my heads machined for any resurfacing.
I was asking myself why not just get them machined? But you stated in the
end “Need to be machined”. Scary that’s what they do at the dealers. And
they’ll probably just be back later on. “Do it right the first time, so you
Dont have to it again..”
boxer engine?
myself i like 320 on thes surfaces, i work in a gm dealer dont get me wrong
i know for a fact some guys use thos in a gm shop, my dealership says block
sand only, but one thing i wished you would ahve mentioned NEVER use thos
stupid brown roloc disks #31 its destroys the head with uneven surface, AND
the aluminum oxide particals going into the oil gallerys and shit, DONT USE
THEM, but i could not agree more to NEVER use air tools on any sealing
surface!
what type of sand paper are u useing
Cosworth uses about the same technique for the final surface prep on their
race engines.
so you bought a 2012 subaru and it has head gasket problems? warrenty? how
can you not like these cars.. my STI has 224k miles on it. and i still run
low 12’s at the track. many subarus i work on have over 300k on them. when
you buy a car you pay for the warrenty! i gotta ask why you dont like it.
Yes, the same block sanding on the block service, you just have to be
mindful of the dowel pins.
100000000000% agree my man! never ever ever use air tools on a sealing
surface that contains any time to pressure, hell i dont even use air tools
on front cover gaskets for example, working at a dealership they want
speed, but they also want it done right!
So, what grit do you use on the sandpaper? Thanks for the video!
Sorry Alexander but You will never find one machinist to ever agree with
that statement. You are more than welcome to do things how you see fit, but
its not what is taught at the professional level.
We block sand the block, we also use a shop vac and have come up with
several ways to plug off the oil, coolant and combustion passages. If you
are really concerned you can also remove the oil pan and flush anything out
that may have collected, just take your time and do your best and you will
come out just fine -Justin