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This stuff is AWESOME for finding coolant leaks! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OIGTTE/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creat…
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Get a ONE-22150 Lisle bucket funnel and let it run the air bubbles out of
it. You have trapped air in it. Yours is probably a 2002 2.5 if I had to
guess.
Thanks a ton! Putting a rebuilt engine in my Outback. Old motor had 190k.
Started it up and it idled rough. Timing! Stopped the engine, took off
timing belt covers, was definitely a few teeth off on the driver’s side cam
pulley. Thought install was perfect…even used your binder clip trick.
Noticed some “skid marks” on idlers leading me to believe the belt jumped.
Thoughts? The crankshaft is really hard to turn now that the clutch is
installed and it’s in the car. Car is in neutral.
Yes, but the mileage, performance, and heat would be terrible. Drill four
holes in it near the bubbler.
Hey Brian, I just got my heads done and now I can’t out the t-stat in cuz
it boils over. Top hose hot, bottom cold. I took the t-stat out and she
runs fine. Can you help me figure this out? I been told that I might have
air in the system. Is it possible? I got the job done about two/three
months ago. From the get go the car was boiling over.
Could be. I’d vacuum test it. Exhaust like smoke from the oil cap is
normal- with pressure is not. Oil on the PCV is also normal- as long as
it’s not excessive.
This one has over 200K miles.
*put*
like..:)
IIRC it was a design defect with the original gaskets… They made a new
version that supposedly fixes the defect.
On this one the owner opted for something like that- except I drilled six
holes three on each side of the thermostat to pass the C02. That way the
engine still warms up and the check engine light is less likely to come on.
First post :-). This is common for Subaru I guess.
Brain. Not sure if you remember my issues. Replaced a 2.5L in a 2005
Outback. Ran it for a short time with the cam pulley on driver’s side out
of proper timing. I’ve gone about 4k on the motor, but I’m burning oil,
have exhaust (significant) coming out of the oil filler tube, have oil in
the vacuum hoses and PCV valve (which I just replaced tonight), and exhaust
that sounds like beat boxing…not a natural rhythm. I’m guessing damaged
valve rings or valveland.
I’ve got a 2007 that has the same issue- drivers side. I believe it’s due
to the EGR system that heats the back of the drivers side head unevenly.
It’s usually the back that fails.
I would love for you to Train me brian! LOL
Resistance across the secondaries. ~12k-ohm on both pairs (1-2, 3-4). I
guess I don’t know for sure, but doesn’t appear to have any shorts. For
that matter, I don’t know if the wireset is good either. Should I change
both? Happy 4th! Thanks again for all of your help.
Will do.
Neither car is mine. I do MANY Subaru head gaskets on many different cars ;
)
Subarus are know for head gasket problem you have alot of video on them.
Do you have verified spark now?
hey Brian, happy fathers day!
Your tensioner may have been colapsed too quickly? Or the tensioner pulley
pivot bolt might be stipped? Or install may have been flawed.
no compression on both the side cylinders? I had a similar issue. No
compression on 4th. (driver side closest to firewall. I have read the
forums back and forth. I decided to to a rebuild. Haven’t finished yet but
Im almost sure you have a head gasket problem.
Thanks alot man, very helpfull videos
Nice video Brian. How many miles on this Subaru?
I wonder – which head gaskets have you seen to be the most resilient?
Graphite? Steel?
would you buy a 2002 legacy gt with a leaking head gasket? 5000? how much
to fix?
brilliant graphic explanation
I’m at the point where I’m just spending money hoping it will fix things.
New coil pack, new wireset, new plugs, dielectric grease. Still no
ignition. I think what I thought was oil on plug 2 is actually uncombusted
fuel. If you have fuel and spark, are we missing the oxygen? Intake valves?
I’m at my witt’s end.
It’s either a head gasket failure- (SUPER likely if you’re over 140K miles)
or it’s a worn out radiator cap or melted radiator cap seat (replace
radiator).
on why the driver side gasket goes bad before the other… non-equidistant
exhaust headers. The uneven headers cause a much harder load on the 4th
cylinder. I purchased a 2002 WRX with no compression on cylinder 4. None
what so ever. Doing a complete rebuild, but I am expecting the head gasket
to be pooped. Maybe even the piston ring. But now you know. Also, if you
replace the exhaust headers with equal distance ones, the Subaru boxer
engine will sound more like a honda vtech.
???? I think there was a glitch on Youtube. lol That comment clearly
doesn’t fit or make sense. I would look for fluid condition all around. I
also like to look at the dipstick for the oil and see if it’s clean or has
black and brown vapor stains on it. Said stains can indicate excessively
long oil change intervals.
Find a mechanic who works by himself, they give you a more honest job and I
bet you can have it replaced at max $500. Dealer job doesnt worth even if
they let you fuck their moms for that amount of money!! Cheers
What I am hearing you say is that the head gasket leaks antifreeze out and
air in. Then an air lock inside the water pump causes ineffective cooling,
which causes recurrent overheating and (boiled over) excess fluid in the
overflow reservoir. So, it isn’t necessarily pushing exhaust gas into rad
fluid and isn’t necessarily pushing coolant into the combustion chambers.
Right? Thanks again for posting these….
Is that thermostat housing plastic?
Thank you for the reply.. I did manage to get it worked out, I did get the
heads surfaced and the one was warped a bit, still over heated so I just
drilled an extra hole in the thermostat itself and thats taken care of the
issue so far, helped me get the air out I suppose
How do you KNOW the coil is good?
Compression on those cylinders was good. As it turns out, the issue was
pretty simple. The key in the cam pulley is a press-fit pin that slides
into a slot on the camshaft. The pin was not pressed into the pulley all
the way and allowed the pulley to slip. I pressed the pin in, keyed it
correctly, redid the timing, and it fired right up. I can only hope that it
didn’t do any major damage running like it was. I’ve put about 2k miles on
it and no issues so far.
hi your vids have saved me heaps of cash (awesome buddy thx ) do you or
could you or are u goin to do a vid on how to change head gasket while
engine still in situ i have a legacy 2001 ej25 although i have managed to
do a few jobs with the help of your vids i am a little intimidated to do
this job without seeing how it is done thx wayne from nz
The headgaskets went out on my ’06 Impreza with the 2.5 with less than 60k
miles on it. Supposedly Subaru had redesigned the gaskets by then, but mine
went out anyway. I’m happy to say that Subaru stepped up and replace them
under warranty, but I’m also sad to say that this will be the last Subaru
that I will ever own EVER. 20 years with the same EJ engine and they still
can’t design their freakin’ headgaskets correctly? It’s beyond maddening.
Is it possible to run it without a thermostat?
Brian, your videos are awesome and have definitely saved me thousands.
Seriously. I need to reinstall my harmonic balancer (’05 Outback MT). I’ve
read that I can put the car in 5th gear and torque the crank bolt without
the special tool to hold the pulley. Will I damage the engine by doing this?