http://www.fcpimport.com/Subaru-parts/ ▻ We’re here today to walk you through a rear brake pads and rotor replacement for a 1999 Subaru Legacy. Subaru Disc B…
http://www.fcpimport.com/Subaru-parts/ ▻ We’re here today to walk you through a rear brake pads and rotor replacement for a 1999 Subaru Legacy. Subaru Disc B…
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Dood freaking awesome!!! Super helpful! !!
First make sure you’re turning the right way, the bolts are opposite you so it will feel like the opposite direction. Then try a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil, some speak highly of brake fluid also but they say you must leave it overnight. A little heat from a heat gun and gentile persuasion can also go a long way.
Any ideas for getting the bolts that hold the calipers off? Mine are stuck on pretty good (I don’t think the rear brakes have ever been changed) and I can’t for the life of me get them off.
We didn’t touch the brake lines, other than making sure the fluid doesn’t overflow under the hood, you really need not even worry about it for this job.
What about bleeding the break fluid?
Thank you for posting this video! Saved myself$170.00 after finding this video!
Great video, Thanks for the good info.
i hear the gurgle
Great video thanks.
Good call, we’ve got a front replacement video too: /watch?v=V8NzH_8SzTg
Rotors have a minimum thickness, it’s usually ‘written’ by being cast into the metal. If you are unsure, measure what the minimum thickness is at it’s thinnest point using callipers and replace as necessary. I’ve just done the front rotors on my 1998 Legacy and I’ve just ticked over 200,000km. Check out my vid if you are interested in the front rotor replacement.
No we did not.
Did you take master cylinder cap off before you pushed pistons back ?
Thanks, thanks, thanks for making this video!!!!
on my rear brakes the mini drum is blocking my new rotors from going on, is there anything I could do to fix this?
did it all sweet when tightened lugs wheel got hard to turn
Thanks, very helpful video.
this video and the one for the front brakes have been so helpful. can’t wait to get into it my self
Thanks
I wish mine had been as easy as yours looked to be…old pads didn’t want to come out, then new pads didn’t want to go in…actually had to file a bit off one of them before I could call it done…but DIG THAT NEW BRAKE SMELL!!! 🙂 Thanks a bunch, vids like this make the internet what it should be!
Thanks for yor videos, I have a 99 B4 and it was a great help.
Thanks for the comment, my thoughts:
1. These are zinc coated so no oily film from the factory they won’t rust on their own & cleaning them with brake cleaner may actually damage them
2. Anti-seize creates friction but stops rust, it won’t loosen your bolts any more than they would on a new car w/o rust
3. These have a teflon back, grease wouldn’t have hurt but it’s not necessary
4. A c-clamp is great advice
5. I don’t think it would have been any easier it’s pretty simple already
Thanks again!
1.your suppose to clean all new rotors with brake cleaner. That is because they coat it with a oily film so it doesn’t rust while it its sitting around
2.you DO NOT ever want to put anti seize on the wheel studs. You dont want to risk your lug bolts to loosen up while your driving
3. Place grease on the back if the pads aswell
4. Dont ever use pliers to compress the piston use a c-clamp
5.dont be lazy and just separate the caliper and the caliper bracket its much easier installing the pads
you got it
It’s virtually identical on the 2000 Legacy’s, you’re also right to note that if your rotors aren’t scored you’re probably good for a little longer before replacing them. Hope that helps!
Did my 1st pad replacements 20 years ago on a Toyota Tercel, without a video — just figured it out as I went, but I’m a bit nervous about doing pad replacements on a today’s more complicated vehicles. Your videos are great but would they be useful for replacing front and rear pads on a 2000 Subaru Legacy L ? Also, I’ve never replaced my rotors. Unless they’re scored, do I really need to replace them? The car is 12 years old, but most mileage is freeway (little braking).
Now as you finish your brake job, you cannot just jump in the car and go 60 MPH and go to a full stop. no no no. you have to follow the Manufactures method of properly seating the pads and breaking them in agaisnt the new rotors. .
OH and also check the brake resevoir and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid accordingly.
yup have fun.
as well as reducuction in sound. and if it helps if anyone has a large C Clamp reuse the old brake pad and clamp the pad to the caliper piston to get it back into the caliper.
Clean the rotors before you mount them if they are coated in Zinc, do not use brake cleaner, it will just take off the zinc coating. just wash the rotor with soap and water and dry it with compressed air.
Reassemble and press the brake a couple of times to seat the pads correctly onto the rotor.