In this video, we are replacing the front lower control arms on a 2013 Subaru Legacy 2.5i, which is similar to the process used on an Outback, Forester, or Impreza. I will show you how to remove a stuck ball joint in the process, or how to replace the control arm without removing the ball joint. The reason for replacing the control arm is because the rear bushing was dry rotted and needed replaced.
Products Used:
Astro Pneumatic Tool 78620 Subaru Ball Joint Puller: https://amzn.to/3IS4EfK
MOOG RK623344 Control Arm Assembly: https://amzn.to/42noqqj
MOOG RK623343 Control Arm Assembly: https://amzn.to/43rG25N
2x MOOG Sway Bar End Link: https://amzn.to/3C9ncnQ
Neiko 00206A 1/2″ Breaker Bar: https://amzn.to/3qg6tfZ
ARES 12016-15/16-inch Pickle Fork Ball Joint Separator: https://amzn.to/43npEDd
Makita XDT131 18V LXT® Lithium-Ion Brushless Cordless Impact Driver Kit: https://amzn.to/42o8STa
Similar Large Pry Bar: https://amzn.to/43t9nNq
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Hi did you know the measures from the long bolt ?
My 2007 OBW after 18 years. Needed replace
Is it typically the LCA bushings that give out (versus the uppers)? I've got 200k miles on my 2014 Legacy and haven't taken a look under there yet to see if the uppers need replacement.
I am so glad to find this video. I thought the rear bushing had a stud, and I was wondering how I was going to slide out the control arm with the stud sticking up so high. Now I know there is a bolt to drop. Still looks horrible, though, having to use a two-faced open-end wrench on a Rust Belt nut is just asking for the hexagon faces to become one smooth circle. I am keeping my fingers crossed for this to work.
I sure wish you video of applying the heat and working the nuts, including all the waiting, straining, and utterances.
Don't necessarily think you can benefit from knocking down (and out) the ball from the knuckle. I vertically set a two-by-four atop the control arm and used a 5-lb engineers hammer to knock the wood hard and down. The control arm pulled the ball out! Great? NO! Because I just found out my ball joint stud's castle nut refuses to let go of the castle nut underneath the control arm. Since the control arm is now free from the knuckle, it is free to bounce around. I can't get good action against the castle nut! And for a bonus, the tied rod's ball joint stud won't come out of the knuckle, but the knuckle is freely swinging as well, so getting strong forces on it is impossible.
Dang, this auto work is hard on an old man's bad back and chronically-pained joints. :-b
You can over-stress your bolts if apply anti-sieze on the bolt. It can lubricate (at least until it dries).
The torque resistance against your wrench arises from bolt and thread deformations forces plus friction. When you reduce friction with a lubricant, you end up needing to torque against higher deformation forces to get the same overall torque resistance measurement. The Torque Channel has a thorough and clear video showing this on their special testing machines. For example, if you apply anti-sieze and then torque to 100 ft-lbs, the bolt and nut system could exhibit (invisible) deformations equivalent to 209 ft-lbs. This is not news I wanted to discover. I am nearly a newb on car repair and I am trying to replace multiple ftont-end components. I want anti-sieze on everything, but now I just don't think I will apply it. :-b
What kind of compressor will work for this job?
Did you put some heat on that pinch bolt?
has anyone found a decent bushing kit without the control arms? Mine are fine, so i'm trying to only spend $ for the bushings
I can only agree 100% with saving the ball joint boot if it's ok. I damaged mine while trying to separate the control arm from the knuckle..boy oh boy did I make a LOT more work for myself!! That's when the real fun began. Just yourself a favor and have that 14m flange/pinch bolt for the ball joint on hand, get the Astro Subaru ball joint tool, a ball joint (my control arm came with the bushings AND the ball joint from Subaru)
I wish I had pushed in the the ball joint bolt last because it was a pain in the butt getting the frame bushings lined up. I ended up unbolting the suspension bolts to finish it up.
Usually the front bushing is tightened when the car is at ride height. You can put the floor jack under the ball joint and take the weight off the stands under the car.
Good video. Replaced both control arms and for me it turned into an 8 hr job. Especially on the right side.
Did you happen to have any issues with the pinch bolts going in all the way but not tightening?
There’s a free replacement (recall) on control arms for some older Subaru’s. I got mine replaced three years ago on my ‘05 forester. The service manager at the dealership was shocked when I asked for free control arms, he had no idea, but I got them.
I have a Question does 2010 legacy 2.5 Shocks absorber fits on 2010 Outback? Since they are both the same platform & interior?
Thanks
Where can I find those bolts at it, ended up breaking on me