My Impreza RS developed a knock after I fixed the head gaskets and fitted a new timing belt tensioner. It was loudest between 1000 and 2000 rpm. Since I did …
My Impreza RS developed a knock after I fixed the head gaskets and fitted a new timing belt tensioner. It was loudest between 1000 and 2000 rpm. Since I did …
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dsean,
I don’t see why the engine would quit unless you somehow changed the
timing, which seems very unlikely. Maybe you disturbed either the crank
sensor or cam sensor. Check the wires to both.
just wondering. how many miles were on this tensioner. i have a wrx wagon
with 127k on the original and i’m guessing its this, that makes it sound
like there’s piston slap/rod knock.
I forgot to put the crank bolt back in and it loosened up just enough where
the sensor wouldn’t read the sprocket. Tightened it up and it started right
up. Stupid mistake. But found it the knock was my tensioner. Any tips on
installing
Awesome video!!!! Thank you!
I done this on my wrx and while I put slight pressure on the tensioner the
car shut off and won’t start now… Any suggestions? Timing marks look
inline, I didn’t press down hard just slightly and it quit. Thanks
Congratulations. It seems like this is a common problem. I have had at
least two bad brand new tensioners, but you have to be careful if you have
to compress them to install. You can mess them up in a vice!
Thanks so much for the video – We had an engine noise from our 2001 Outback
– was not sure what it was. After we opened things up the tensioner
appeared to have some oil on it but when starting the engine it was not
bouncing like yours – however applying a little pressure with the inserted
screwdriver the noise went away! It took us quite a bit longer than you –
we had one rusted bolt which stripped off holding the lower shield – we
ended up accessing the fan through the oil access – thanks!
Great video! I’m sure this is my issue, going to find out tomorrow!
Mine rattles like hell on a cold start up at any RPM. It started doing it
approximately 1500 miles into a 3100 mile trip. I drove it the rest of the
way but I will not drive it anymore. I decided to go the with the more
popular route of a Gates tensioner. I found that it’s not that expensive on
Amazon.
Sad to say my engine developed a serious knock after yesterdays RallyCross
at I96 Speedway. Had to get home on some kind fellows trailer. Likely my
son-in-law and I, who shared the driving, overreved it several times. It
was clearly not the timing belt tensioner (which rattled when cold -a Beck
Arnley free replacement!). The knock developed as we started driving home
and within a mile it was scary and we pulled off.
One more comment, sorry to blow up your comment section…but the Gates
part number for my engine (and yours, I assume) is T43138. If you look that
number up on Amazon you can find it for 68.74.
Look at my videos if you want to hear what my car sounds like…it’s bad.
that tool you used to remove the cranks half pulley, was it easy to make?
should i try and make it myself or just spend the $50 and get a grimmspeed
one?
My engine is in pieces and number two connecting rod spun a bearing, messed
up the crank and one conrod. I have a new crank (they are all the same so I
got an STI crank).
You got a Beck Arnley tensioner too! Mine failed within 2k miles.
“see thats what it is” my favorite line.lol
Good video by the way.
After a full rebuild (rod bearing #3 spun) I replaced my water pump, timing
belt, idlers, tensioner etc, but oddly enough, the new tensioner failed
2-3000km after the rebuild. The screwdriver to the ear on the cam cover
really enhanced the rattle – you could tell it was coming from here and not
the rest of the engine. Another tensioner and another cam belt (just in
case) and its now been fine 30,000km later.
You can see it at about 2min 40. I used a piece of aluminum plate about 1/8
thick. Drill 4 holes to match the holes in the crank pulley. Also one
larger hole in the center to allow the center bolt socket to go through. I
drilled several smaller holes the filed to suit. Four bolts big enough to
fit into the cavitles in the crank pulley were fitted to the plate with
nuts. The pry bar could be any sturdy 4 foot metal bar but I just happened
to have an aluminum U section from a shower enclosure!
Great video…I will check mine now. Cheers
Removed right side cover (facing engine from front). Tensioner wheel was
bouncing up and down same as in your video. Noise did get louder with cover
off. Rolled the dice and bought the new tensioner without using your double
check pressure method. I used two 3/8″ socket extensions about 3″ long and
a long bar to “lock” the harmonic balancer while removing the big
crankshaft bolt. Problem gone once part replaced. Took a few hours but was
first time working on this car. Again, thanks!
Outstanding video for a DIY instructional, I am about to perform this but
will only take off the right side cover and see if the noise is more
prominent with cover off. Based on Google searches this appears to be such
a common problem that if that cover is removed and the noise is louder you
can almost bank on that being the issue, Your method is foolproof though.
Also, should “Bob’s your uncle” be used when knuckles are bleeding? 🙂
Thanks much