How to Replace the Timing Belt and Water pump Subaru 2.5L Part 2: Replacement

How to Replace the Timing Belt and Water pump Subaru 2.5L Part 2: Replacement

In part 2 of a two part series the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, 3 iders and the water pump and thermostat are replaced on a 2012 Subaru Legacy with a 2.5L engine. This procedure may be similar for other Subaru models with this engine made between 2006 and 2014 such as Impreza, Forester, Outback and Baja.

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Elena Jeppson says:

I don't have that specific tool you use for the crank pulley bolt removal. is there any alternative tool to use?

Saxologist says:

I was doing some research on Subaru's and I came across this video – excellent. I changed my mind about buying a Subaru after the "thermostat in the water pump housing".

Bruce Foreman says:

what Brand digital torque wrench are you using?

William Haas says:

You have great videos. Just discovered your channel. Question: I have a 2013 Outback, I think it is a timing chain and does not need replacement. Can you please confirm?

Tyson Elijah Hill says:

Great video thanks!

John Benz says:

Thank You for posting. You did a good job.

Emma Haskell says:

Why is every single "car fix it" video made from the perspective that "we the viewer" already know what we are doing? So many questions left unanswered. Very very typical, even Chiltons manuals are written this way.

wesrace says:

Great video! I really enjoyed watching it, however it looks like the driver side CAM PULLEY IS NOT ALIGNED (right side from video perspective) if you reference the notch in the cover and the yellow line and the white mark. Was the pulley mis-marked?

Mc Luvin says:

Excellent job and very very helpful and step by step how to video

Edgar Longenecker says:

A master mechanic couldn't have done it better!

iwerkalone says:

Well made video enjoyed watching, about to (hopefully) pick up a 2005 Impreza. Only one critique if I may, might help out someone doing this themselves. You guys pulled out the tensioner pin BEFORE checking that all the timing marks were aligned. Would highly recommend checking the marks before pulling the pin. Thanks for posting!

Thomas Schroeder says:

I am a DIY guy, but not a mechanic. So maybe I am missing a couple things that were supposed to be obvious (I watched both videos many times):

1) At about 8:53 we hear; "…, we are at the end of Part 2 and we're going to take the crank pulley bolt out by holding one of the camshafts with the 17m socket."

That confused me. I eventually figured out (I think) that the "crank pulley bolt" you refer to is the bolt that was removed in Part 1 that held the harmonic balancer in place over the crank pulley (one drives the timing belt, the other the serpentine belt). I think the bolt was put back in temporarily to crank the engine by hand as needed.

But, removing it as you did seems like it puts unnecessary stain on the teeth of the brand new timing belt. Am I mistaken? Why not use the special tool, or have I misinterpreted everything?

2) I am completely confused by "34.7 torque plus 60 degrees" when replacing the crank pulley (or harmonic balancer as it was called when removed in part 1). I can't tell if you torqued to 34.7, then cranked the engine crank 60 degrees then torqued to 34.7 again. Or if you torqued to 34.7, then actually turned the bolt 60 more degrees while holding the crank stationary.

Thanks for any help.

MINDTHEPENDULUM says:

I am about to remove the old timing belt but the alignment marks are off by about 2 inches. I turned the crank over 4 full revolutions while checking the timing marks on each cam on each rotation. Always off by about 2 inches. Do I remove the belt then just turn 1 cam back 2 inches to match? It ran fine before all this. I'm doing the timing belt because it is way overdue and I'm about to go on a road trip. Any ideas?

Ignacio Alvarado JR says:

How long did it take you to just do the water pump

Jeremy Goopa says:

Please help (I’m new to this). I got the new timing belt on, completed the clockwise rotations, and had everything properly aligned. After trying what you did at 8:56, the crank bolt did not come out. Instead, I jumped timing and now the crank is a few teeth back. I tried holding both cams to move the crank back into proper position, but had no luck and now I’m worried that I bent the valves because there was a lot of resistance and I even managed to start unscrewing the driver side camshaft pulley a few times. I don’t have much experience with this stuff and am extremely concerned. Please let me know, thanks

Jarred Allen says:

Does anyone have a link to the crank tool???

Schmidty says:

Excellent videos, great camera work and vocal descriptions, one of the best ive seen.
I'm going to give this a try now once I get that pulley tool since I also have a small oil leak behind the covers.

Would love to see you do a power steering pump video too.

jku72 says:

You skipped what a huge pain installing the water pump L shaped side seal is. I’ve been at it 2 a half hours and had the water pump partly in 6 times. Out of the entire job, its the single most difficult part.

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