PT 1 Customer States: Everything Leaking! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 AWD https://youtu.be/krLunEpFDBI
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4×4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
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Oh mannnn Ray. We've all been there before. I could feel the struggle throughout this process to ultimately end the way you work so hard to avoid. I had this happen on a 95 Millenia with the 2.5L KL, on a bolt next to the frame rail. I ended up welding threads to the broken off bolt and using it as a stud with a nut. It worked, but I wasn't proud. Glad I could come up with an engine to help you get this thing back on the road.
Trying to weld on a surface covered in lube isnt the best way to get the weld to work.
If welding a nut on failed more than twice I’d switch to drilling it out.
Ouch! Not having a welder, I would have tried vicegrips on the stud with lots of back and forth and patience. I would try pulling the engine and drill & tap & helicoil it with lots of room to work on it straight-on.
Recoil it mate drill it out bigger then tap a new thread .
Been there done that.
You just feel your soul leave your body as your heart ends up in your boot.
I had this on a Subaru before, I bolted the old water pump back on as a guide, then wrapped a 5.5 mm drill in electrical tape until it was a close fit in the old pump. Then drilled the bolt center out which left me with just the threads in the hole. I then grabbed the end thread with needle nose pliers and pulled. It came out like a spring unwinding Job rescued. Unfortunately you now have an easy out stuck in the hole. I never use easy outs (never out) as for me they always end this way. If you can weld to the broken easy out and pull it back out you can still use the old pump method.
As many, many others have learned, Subarus are great until they break.
Find a machine shop worthy of the name and take that engine to them.
Hey Ray, I am a retired Mek a nek, of over 40 years. There was nothing that you could do, Doomed from the start (You felt it) Cross metal corrosion. I didn't read all the comments, But there is some good advice. I have done more than my share of these. YOU CAN DO IT! The longest one that I have done took almost 16 hours. 1st "PB Blaster" about every 10 minutes. Remove Radiator, Grille and any other obstacles. Try a small, strong pair of needle nose to remove Extractor (Righty/Loosey). If that doesn't work then a good tap with a Center Punch May shatter it. Next go buy 2 sets of LH or reverse drill bits. sometimes with these it pulls the broken piece out as you drill. if not then a Heli coil is the last resort. I liked the comment of using the old water pump as a guide, but it looks like you are pretty centered. Most important is Patience. Get frustrated, step back and take a breath. OHMS WATTAGE, OHMS WATTAGE. You Got This!
Sorry if this sounds wrong..couldn't you drill out the hole to make it larger then tap and di
new threads..install a threaded sleeve into the hole and thread a bolt into the sleeve? Just a thought..
Alloys and steel and are the two worst materials to put together yet they build engines with them, Once corrosion starts that road comes with a lot of pitfalls. Ray has done nothing wrong here. Perhaps a non corrosive barrier between the two components may make a future mechanics life less painful. It's often just sheer luck bolts in this situation come out, there are no text book solutions for this but to try what other folk have tried and cross your fingers it works. Sometimes it does and sometimes it just fails. This is what makes this channel extremely great. Well done Ray we know this is tough for you.
Oh man, this is a common problem here in the north with corrosion. Should hit the stud of the bolt with a torch and heated the crap out of it. Welding the bolt on was a great plan of attack but with rust heating stud itself may have have better results.
Cheap shit allor bolts instead of proper steel bolts