I replaced the clutch in an ’00 Forester this weekend thanks to this vid. A
big thanks, Huck; there isn’t much info on this process out there for the
visual learner. I’d like to share a few things I learned along the way for
the unexperienced like myself:
-Count the tranny-engine bolt/nuts removed before you try to separate the
two. I wrestled for over an hour before realizing that I had missed one
hidden under a little bracket. (It was indeed amateur hour in my garage.)
-Don’t assume the flywheel is ok and buy one along with the clutch kit.
Also, you will need an E16 reverse torx socket to switch the back plate.
-When mating the engine back to the trans, put it in gear. That trick could
have saved another hour or so.
-Lastly, without meticulous (and some downright silly) notes with
corresponding ziplock bags, I’d still be putting that thing back together.
I do it the same way on my 3 previous subarus I take the engine out and
take care of all small things so I don’t have to keep getting back to it
they way he does it is a good way to do it if ur not changing or checking
for anything else
Hey man, I have a Legacy 93 1.8 (engine ej18), but I dont know how to
remove the engine, I can’t find any slot where to grab it, and I don’t want
to ruin it. do you have any tips?
This is a tremendous help. I’m pulling my engine as I type 🙂 Question, why
do you remove the PitchFork at 10:50? It appears to be tied to the tranny,
not the engine block. Thanks again!
@bearjibster Lifted the engine out with a tractor. Ran into one problem.
Took a bolt out of the engine mount instead of the main nut. Took a day to
figure that out. All in all 3 1/2 days. Keep track of your nuts. Thanks a
million
pull the motor, inspect rear seals, give it a tune up, check timing
pulleys/waterpump (half the work is done for you when you have the engine
out of the car). these are HIGHLY serviceable motors. when you do the
clutch, replace EVERYTHING. pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot
bearing, grease the throwout arm and make sure its nice and shiny so this
should be the only time you pull the motor.
wow alot of people are asking why pull the engine to do a clutch, well last
time i checked he’s the one turning the wrench and the one who did the
repair, so he can do it however he wants, yes with a hoist pulling
ransmission prob bin easyer, without a hoist it might be a royal pain to
drop the trans, i have never done any work to a sub i work on light duty
diesel trucks, its like pulling an engine for headgaskets you just do a
much cleaner and better job:) sometimes the extra work is worth it
Yea the manual i found o line says to remove hex cap then insert a 10 mm
bolt and yank a pin out thats holding the fork in place. My problem is does
the cap pop off some how or do i screw it off.
the advantage of taking out the motor is you can give it a full going over,
replace gaskets, timing belt, inspect heads, and give it a full tune up all
at once so you don’t need to open the hood again for months. doing a clutch
tomorrow on a motor with 240K, just replacing gaskets and a tune up for
another 50k miles!
You are the man! Burned up my clutch in an 03 impreza outback trying to
follow a snow cat. I know…stupid. Replaced the clutch with no experience.
You are a godsend.
At my age I would rather work from the top than work from underneath. To
get the tranny off and out of the way you need to jack the car way-up!!!! I
dont’t have a lift. Also, you need to remove exhaust, propeller shaft, axle
shafts. You have a good chance of damaging balljoints trying to release the
front wheel hubs from the a-arms. You need to do this to get the front axle
shafts off the tranny.
Your are extremely good at this, I thought i could change my clutch but
after watching this i think imma leave to the professionals. Wish you were
in my country. Great VID!
@mg556linked Nah!!! Don’t feel offended at all. Everyone has there method
of working. I just did it to show people. I just find it easier this way
because depending on the car, the stupid rad fan gets stuck on the power
steering pump.
You make it look pretty easy. But, I have always put other cars high on
stands and pulled the transmissions down and out to do a clutch. Is this
way easier for the Subaru? I am unsure of which way to go. It will be my
first time for one of these, a 270K miles Forester. The cluch arm will not
come back to rest, and the clutch will not fully release when the pedal is
depressed. Hydraulic parts are new. There could be a broken/worn out fork
or pivot, I suppose.
I rigged a vicegrip on the top of the fork so that the pin is pressed up
against the fork near the bottom (no gap – whereas if left alone the pin
fits in the grove – too much gap). with this rig in place the pin only
needs to move very little -means slave is strong enough to push fork (pedal
feels nice/tight from the top) and am able to drive. is it possible that
the fork pivot (inside bell) has broken? how much should the slave pin move?
){kind=link}
OATBACK!
lol very good video!
love it, thanks
goodness you do this the hard way. have you ever pulled the trans and just
sit under the car to change the clutch? MUCH EASIER and faster
I replaced the clutch in an ’00 Forester this weekend thanks to this vid. A
big thanks, Huck; there isn’t much info on this process out there for the
visual learner. I’d like to share a few things I learned along the way for
the unexperienced like myself:
-Count the tranny-engine bolt/nuts removed before you try to separate the
two. I wrestled for over an hour before realizing that I had missed one
hidden under a little bracket. (It was indeed amateur hour in my garage.)
-Don’t assume the flywheel is ok and buy one along with the clutch kit.
Also, you will need an E16 reverse torx socket to switch the back plate.
-When mating the engine back to the trans, put it in gear. That trick could
have saved another hour or so.
-Lastly, without meticulous (and some downright silly) notes with
corresponding ziplock bags, I’d still be putting that thing back together.
I do it the same way on my 3 previous subarus I take the engine out and
take care of all small things so I don’t have to keep getting back to it
they way he does it is a good way to do it if ur not changing or checking
for anything else
Hey man, I have a Legacy 93 1.8 (engine ej18), but I dont know how to
remove the engine, I can’t find any slot where to grab it, and I don’t want
to ruin it. do you have any tips?
This is a tremendous help. I’m pulling my engine as I type 🙂 Question, why
do you remove the PitchFork at 10:50? It appears to be tied to the tranny,
not the engine block. Thanks again!
Fantastic video. I gotta do this to fix a bad rear oil seal. They had
already done clutch job 40k miles ago… I
@bearjibster Lifted the engine out with a tractor. Ran into one problem.
Took a bolt out of the engine mount instead of the main nut. Took a day to
figure that out. All in all 3 1/2 days. Keep track of your nuts. Thanks a
million
dont need a lift to drop it , just like you dont need a lift to take the
engine out
I don’t know how old you are, but when you have been crawling under cars
since 16, you get fed up. I am now 40!!! 😉
way easier! all the work is from the top. plus the motor only weighs under
200lbs
@HuckThis1971 ya most my subaru buddies can pull these in less than 2
hours. great vid man:)
pull the motor, inspect rear seals, give it a tune up, check timing
pulleys/waterpump (half the work is done for you when you have the engine
out of the car). these are HIGHLY serviceable motors. when you do the
clutch, replace EVERYTHING. pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot
bearing, grease the throwout arm and make sure its nice and shiny so this
should be the only time you pull the motor.
wow alot of people are asking why pull the engine to do a clutch, well last
time i checked he’s the one turning the wrench and the one who did the
repair, so he can do it however he wants, yes with a hoist pulling
ransmission prob bin easyer, without a hoist it might be a royal pain to
drop the trans, i have never done any work to a sub i work on light duty
diesel trucks, its like pulling an engine for headgaskets you just do a
much cleaner and better job:) sometimes the extra work is worth it
Yea the manual i found o line says to remove hex cap then insert a 10 mm
bolt and yank a pin out thats holding the fork in place. My problem is does
the cap pop off some how or do i screw it off.
Thanks for all the positive responses!!!!
You’re listening to RammStein lol
the advantage of taking out the motor is you can give it a full going over,
replace gaskets, timing belt, inspect heads, and give it a full tune up all
at once so you don’t need to open the hood again for months. doing a clutch
tomorrow on a motor with 240K, just replacing gaskets and a tune up for
another 50k miles!
ohne dich,
You are the man! Burned up my clutch in an 03 impreza outback trying to
follow a snow cat. I know…stupid. Replaced the clutch with no experience.
You are a godsend.
Yes! If you have the space and a lift!!!
At my age I would rather work from the top than work from underneath. To
get the tranny off and out of the way you need to jack the car way-up!!!! I
dont’t have a lift. Also, you need to remove exhaust, propeller shaft, axle
shafts. You have a good chance of damaging balljoints trying to release the
front wheel hubs from the a-arms. You need to do this to get the front axle
shafts off the tranny.
thanks for posting this vid it has helped allot big up yourself
Thanks for the comment. All the vidoes I make is to help out others as much
as I can!!!!
Your are extremely good at this, I thought i could change my clutch but
after watching this i think imma leave to the professionals. Wish you were
in my country. Great VID!
Thank you much for the great video!
@mg556linked Nah!!! Don’t feel offended at all. Everyone has there method
of working. I just did it to show people. I just find it easier this way
because depending on the car, the stupid rad fan gets stuck on the power
steering pump.
Junk!!!
You make it look pretty easy. But, I have always put other cars high on
stands and pulled the transmissions down and out to do a clutch. Is this
way easier for the Subaru? I am unsure of which way to go. It will be my
first time for one of these, a 270K miles Forester. The cluch arm will not
come back to rest, and the clutch will not fully release when the pedal is
depressed. Hydraulic parts are new. There could be a broken/worn out fork
or pivot, I suppose.
Great vid thanks I know I can do this myself now
These young kids ay, goin for that bling facta. Made me laugh out loud.
I rigged a vicegrip on the top of the fork so that the pin is pressed up
against the fork near the bottom (no gap – whereas if left alone the pin
fits in the grove – too much gap). with this rig in place the pin only
needs to move very little -means slave is strong enough to push fork (pedal
feels nice/tight from the top) and am able to drive. is it possible that
the fork pivot (inside bell) has broken? how much should the slave pin move?
Yup, or not equipped with a lift.