Saturn S-series Cooling Fan Troubleshooting
Disclaimer:
I am not a professional mechanic and this video is not meant to be a definitive how to.Always consult a professional repair manual before starting your repair.I am not responsible for any problems that you might incur by watching or following this video.
){kind=link}
Here's a tricky one for you, I have a 97 SW2 that if you unplug the sensor the fan comes and when you test the power and ground it test good and when you also ohm out the sensor it's good so I replaced the sensor just because I had removed it and the fan still doesn't come on and it over heats any ideas? Oh and great videos very informative thank you
Here's a tricky one for you, I have a 97 SW2 that if you unplug the sensor the fan comes and when you test the power and ground it test good and when you also ohm out the sensor it's good so I replaced the sensor just because I had removed it and the fan still doesn't come on and it over heats any ideas? Oh and great videos very informative thank you
Hi i Have a 1999 saturn sl1 and the only problem is that it overheats
Go to the junk yard and get a coolant reservoir cap from another Saturn, 15 psi written on the cap. I had some baffling problems with the cooling system, turns out it was the reservoir cap. If the cap doesn't hold to the right pressure anymore the boiling point of the coolant will decrease. It will boil over before your cooling fan ever comes on and you will think your car is running hot because you will smell the hot coolant escaping out the lid. Then the engine will overheat when enough coolant escapes. The boiling point of a liquid goes up under pressure so when the lid fails the coolant will boil at a cooler temp, like I said, before the cooling fan even comes on, once it boils it is gonna have to escape and it will probably come out of the reservoir cap. I troubleshot the whole cooling system with its electronics. Then I went to the junk yard to grab a few temp sensors and its connectors. I threw a radiator cap in my pocket just for the hell of it. I put the new lid on and turned the connector to the temp sensor 180 degrees and reconnected it. I waited for the engine to heat up with anticipation and a prayer. When it started to rise to the point it would normally boil and come out the lid it didn't, and when I smelled the engine it didn't smell that hot. At about 9/16 to 5/8 on the temp gauge to my joy the fan came on. The temp dropped to normal in mere seconds, victory. I thought at first turning the connector on the temp sensor had done it but then as I thought about it I figured it didn't matter which way you connect the connector. Long story short if your lid is not holding to the 15 psi written on the lid you will see these symptoms: the temp gauge will rise above the normal operating temperature, when it reaches half way it is close to boiling already because the lid is not holding the pressure required to raise the boiling point, the temp may drop back down temporarily a few times if you are starting and stopping, it will go up when you stop and down when you go. But if you stop long enough or park the car the car will begin to heat up, the temp will go just past half way and the coolant will start escaping the lid. The temp will jump around pretty good as pressure is released and then builds and so on. So obviously you are losing coolant in the process so your coolant will be going lower. You will wonder why your fan never came on when your car was apparently overheating even though the temp only made it a little past half way. You will wonder if maybe the gauge is wrong, maybe the temp is hotter than it says. So really the car is not overheating, of course you smell the boiling coolant escaping the lid and pouring on the ground but that is because it has boiled at the lower temp due to the failure of the lid. So get a new lid.
Rich, unfortunately I ended up braking the connector from the sensor attempting to test this on my 97 SL2. The fan came on but I am unable to reconnect it to the cooling temp sensor. I may have also damaged the sensor as the gauge reads at the halfway mark. Is this going to be an expensive fix if taken to a mechanic? Thank you.
Rick thank you for all the video s you have done and will they are very helpful.
nice work Rich !
richpin06a we always see you working on Saturn S Series cars but how come you don't do any Saturn L300 V6 Videos we want to see how to videos on the L series car its a challenge
hey Rick thank you for all the video s you have done and will they are very helpful. I have a 95 Saturn sw2 obd 1 system will this test help has well if the older models? I believe they should engine looks the same. plus I have a rattle noise coming from engine when there's a load putting into drive and reverse any suggestions thank you
Hi Rich, nicely shot video. Question: if you remove the CTS connector to turn-on the fan, then how can a dirty/corroded CTS connector prevent the electric fan from turning on? It seams that removing the connector from the CTS causes an open the circuit and isn't that what a corroded CTS connector would do?
im working on a saturn sw1 with a 1.9 engine and i pulled the wires off the temp sensor and then started the engine but the fan did not kick on, then i put a ground to the relay then the fan kicked on..what do you think problem is, may be ecm?
This is what i had to do. But not before it blew out my water pump.
What would you suspect is the culprit is just the opposite was happening. In that, as soon as one starts the car, the radiator fan comes on immediately, even in winter and the engine totally cold. Would the coolant temp sensor be the chief suspect? Also, would you expect any current to be detectable at the connector if the engine was cold and the engine not running? I would appreciate you insight on this. Thanks Ron
1998 sl2 , runs ok until the gauge goes to have way then the car shutdown and will not start until the car cools off the electric fan does come on only one time then when it gets to have way again it's shutdown any answers thanks.
quick question rich my fan on my pickup is always running. I had a cooling system that was undercooling. I changed the thermostat and now the temp gauge goes up, but fan is always running even after trucks been off for 8 plus hours. I was thinking of changing the cooling temp sensor, and giving the cooling system a flush. I'm guessing a good sensor unplugged like you said would turn your fan on, so a bad sensor would keep it on.
one thing i never understood is WHY they went form an aluminum intake on the 1st and 2nd gen cars to a plastic one on the 3rd gen (i own a 2002)…most cars i see for sale that are 3rd gen the plastic intake is cracked..On my car, i replaced the plastic one with a a;aluminum one from a 2nd gen
Great stuff as always Rich. My daughters 96 SL2 is having an issue with the electric door locks were they are chattering (locking unlocking) constantly. I pulled the relays for the time being and figure one of the switches in the doors is bad. You ever troubleshoot that issue before?
i just unplugged the AC because it doesnt work anyway and press the button in the cabin when i want the fan on.
A possible better way would be to use a 21 watt 12v bulb instead of a multimeter, some voltages dont actually have any current capacity, a load is needed, and its really visual :-).
Do you know if the sensor is like the old type that just switches on at a threshold temprature or is it a fancy pants variable resistance thermister?
Im just being nosey 😀
Wish I still had my Saturn. 🙁
Nice video Rich!! However, you should've also went over the fan relay as well IMO, as well as hot wiring the fan to the battery (unless you covered those in the past?)
Thank you for this! My saturn overheats if I'm in traffic and this pointed me in the right direction.