This video covers the timing drive system replacement for GM’s Ecotec platform which includes 2.0L, 2.2L, & 2.4L displacement engines.
This information applies to the following vehicles:
Make Model
Buick LaCrosse
Buick Regal
Buick Verano
Chevrolet Astra
Chevrolet Captiva Sport
Chevrolet Cavalier
Chevrolet Classic
Chevrolet Cobalt
Chevrolet Equinox
Chevrolet HHR
Chevrolet Impala
Chevrolet Malibu
Chevrolet Orlando
Chevrolet Zafira
GMC Terrain
Oldsmobile Alero
Pontiac G5
Pontiac G6
Pontiac Grand Am
Pontiac Pursuit
Pontiac Solstice
Pontiac Sunfire
Pontiac Vibe
Saab 9-3
Saab 9-3X
Saturn Aura
Saturn Ion
Saturn L100
Saturn L200
Saturn L300
Saturn LS
Saturn LS1
Saturn LW1
Saturn LW200
Saturn Sky
Saturn Vue
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Amazing attention to detail
Should you put a new water pump gear on that to
These videos make shit like this possible.. THANKS !!
So I first removed the top tensioner, (forgot to TDC), afterwards I removed the guides and chain. Next I rotated the crankshaft to TDC. OH NOOO! Now I'm screwed. I just put everything out of wack. How do I know if TDC is on the proper stroke so my cam sprockets wont jam up my valves? This replacement isn't as a result of a system failure , It's just at the 100K spot and I want to keep her alive longer with a new chain kit I just bought from Cloyes. Can I just line up the cam sprockets to 10 & 2, crank to TDC, (key way up on 12), and it's good to go?
Thank you. Very well detailed video. Explains everything about the different designs used. Watching this video and reading different forums about Cloyes products is why I purchased your product for my 2009 2.2 Cobalt. I also did the timing and shaft chain entirely just watching this video during the install. That's when I found out that the old parts were OEM stamped with GM and Cloyes. It's good to know that I'm echnically using OEM parts with improved designs. If the OEM timing & shaft chain, guides, and sprockets are Cloyes, must be great products because my Cobalt has 306,xxx miles and the only thing that seemed a bit loose was the shaft chain. The timing chain was still nice and tight. Sprocket teeth and guides were still good. Thanks Cloyes for a great produt.
Oi tudo bem só do Brasil queria kit pra cherlot capitiva vc teria pra vender 2.4 16v ano 2012
i just learned how to replace my water pump and timing chain for free thanks just saved me so much more money!!!
I have problems with this buick regal 2012 2.4 l. I did 4 times timing chain and still saying code p0016 crankshaft position camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A
A few tips for anyone else doing this (my car is 08 Saturn Sky): You probably need a 3-jaw gear puller to remove the pulley. NOT the Y-shaped/peace sign style. No need to rent the gear puller set at the parts store, just buy a 3-jaw puller.
I had to grind the 3 jaw teeth to fit precisely on the pulley. Once pulling, it was easy to get off. I used the old bolt as the pivot point.
If you're doing a water pump replacement at the same time – the WP gear does fit in/out of the hole for the WP.
To take off the WP pulley bolts, I made a bar with 2 holes to allow me to keep the WP from turning while loosening and installing those bolts. I used an alum bar with holes 1-5/8 apart on center, to put one bolt with a 3/4inch plastic spacer in the WP pulley threaded hole, and using the big WP bolt on the boss near it.
Removing the cam gear on the crank required the 3-jaw puller, it's not easy to slip off/on by hand, there's a good amount of friction at the installed position.
Removing the bolts from the balance shafts is a joke. I did not replace them as I bent my punch when I tried to loosen the bolt. Remember these parts have been going through thousands of heat cycles and everything can be stuck together. The video uses clean, demo-only engines. Not real life engines. Also, IMO, it's not required to replace every piece. The markings on the OE balance sprockets are marked but hard to see without good light.
The main cam gear on the crank had plastic cushioner on it. There was a thin shim on the front of it that covered the part number and the timing mark dot, but it was so precisely fit it was hard to see until I took off the whole gear and touched the shim. In hindsight I might have been able to keep that gear honestly.
The main chain for the cams likes to fall off the crank gear. Have a helper to keep it in place while you work.
The balance shaft gear on the crank has a springy action to it so you can't try to turn the balance chain drivetrian after that's all in place.
The vertical metal tensioner only seemed to fit into place from the top, not the bottom.
Buy a plug/bolt replacement for the top vertical chain guide on the driver side so you don't have to fret about losing that top bolt taking it out of the big hole. Apparently it's prone to break.
Most of the bolts are 89 inch-pounds but the GM book specifies 106 for some of the bolts actually.
I ground a tiny slot mark on the outside of the main pulley to mark TOP and painted an arrow. Hopefully there's no "next time".
Putting the main pulley back on doesn't require a special tool, just used the old bolt. I was able to push and wiggle the pulley on for an inch or so, then used the old bolt to press it down. Easy.
I bought a flywheel holding tool on eBay for $15, easy to use in the starter hole.
Tightening the crank bolt to 100Nm + 125 degrees required 2 passes on the degree bar, about 60 degrees each time, as there's not enough room IMO to go all at once. It's the most bolt tightening I've even done. You NEED a 24 inch or longer bar, I used a breaker bar, ie no ratcheting. The degree measure tool from the parts store is like $12.
Does it matter if the balance shaft sprockets move a bit? Yes mine rotated a bit on disassembly. As long as chain links line up I guessing I’m ok???
280000 miles on my 2.2 and never had to replace it