This is a video of replacing the timing chain guides and balance chain and guides in a B235R out of a SAAB 9-5 Aero. This procedure was obviously done with t…
theSAABguy: Replace Timing Chain Guides and Balance Chain/Guides in a B235
47
Like
Save
){kind=link}
- Tags:
B235, Balance, Chain, Chain/Guides, Guides, replace, theSAABguy, Timing
- Categories: Saab
Comments
Write a comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
I did this job on my ’97 9000 CSE with the engine in the car. The same exact guide was broken in the same location. Once I took everything apart I noticed the balance chain tensioner was maxed out. I couldn’t understand why or how it happened since the car had no sludge or varnish, was never driven like a boy racer’s car, and only had 90K miles on the clock. My previous car, a VW Passat GLX with a VR6 also had a timing chain guide break. That was a nightmare to replace compared to the Saab’s.
hi im about to buy one 2000 2.3 and had 200k miles, the chain need replace at 300k or need to had in the 200? thanks
now this is good to know, just bought a 9-5 2,3 T Sedan.
Ive started to hear some rattle from the chain in my 9-5 B205 -03. I checked the tensioner and it was stretched to 16mm so i need to replace the chain. :/ So im gonna replace only the chain. But how likely is it that i need to replace the balancechain too? Will it take a year? Two years? Im not really seeing forward to lift out my engine because it just seems to be too much work. 🙁
Use a generic puller that has multiple arms autozone has one for free rental
Need your help. I have a 1997 900 se and I am trying to remove crankshaft pulley, the nut is out but there are no holes for the puller ?
Great video’s! Really helpfull.Thanks!
I have pulled it in the recent past, and desludged. I am only changing the balance shaft chain timing chain and associated components in need. I doubt that the pan is sludged up this early on. It is a good practice for those in need.
rollotwomassey, Not too long ago, I had the oil pan off and cleaned sludge out, put in a set of standard rod and main bearings. My engine is a 204L, and I purchased it with 49k mi on it. The sludging probably took place before I got it, since I have used Amsoil 100% synthetic since then. My chain tensioner measured 18mm,3mm over acceptable. I get nervous about this. Stretched chains are never a good thing. It is tracking straight. I am not thrilled to pull engine. I now have 257k mi.
I never said I would want a timing chain to snap. The whole reason you buy a car like a Saab is that they NEVER need repairs on parts like this. Same thing with older Volvos and Mercs. In theory, as long as you keep the oil changes regular and use fully synthetic your chain should not snap. If they do go bad that’s an indictment of the car’s engineering.
Pull it and clean pan and screen out. Use generic oven cleaner (generic Easy Off) and the pan will look like new. Spray the pick up tube’s interior as well, then rinse with water. You’ll need a new bead of Loctite.
You might as well pull the oil pan when you’re in there. You definitely what a good seal around the hole for the oil pump pick up tube and if you put the valve cover back in while it’s a tight fit you’ll probably scrap off all the gasket maker, best bet is to pull the pan and put it back on last with fresh loctite anaerobic gasket maker.
Are you sure the oil pan needs to be pulled? It looks like a few bolts on the end of the pan fasten into cover, that’s all. I need to do my balance chain on a 99 2-3 2.0L.
You are kidding right? That is totally false. I would never want to snap a timing chain. They do stretch, and eventually break.
I tore my 9-3 2.0t down for machine work how do i time all it back together the machine and cleaning made my marks disapear
Thank you. Sounds like it would be easier to just remove the engine lol.
Apparently yes. You need at least 2 floor jacks to support the engine (blocks of wood to distribute the weight) and have to remove the engine & trans mounts, disconnect the intake pipe, down pipe, crank pulley, etc. Then you can slide the engine towards the drivers side. This apparently gives enough room to get the cover off. Oil pan needs pulled, but unsure of where to stick 2 floor jacks with it gone? I read a saabscene post where a guy did his this way.
Can I do this while the engine is still in the car?
Anyone who can do that in car I give mad props to…
I’ll be taking my 2001 saab 95 engine out (my first time!! :() in the next few months to change the exact same problem (and give the old girl a generally clean up internally) You’ll be more than welcome to stay for free full board with us here in London UK if you fancy helping me out in return. 🙂 I have access to all the necessary tools, spares and a large mechanics garage to work in. Cheeky of me to ask, i know but hey… life is for living. Kind regards to you Jay, Derek Farmer
Thanks much. How much would a mechanic charge to check this?
Not sure if I can post a pic in this reply, but if you just do a google search for saab chain tensioner measurement you’ll see how to measure it. The chain tensioner is located in the back of the cylinder head (near the belt tensioner) and the spring must be removed (12 mm bolt holding it in) before the tensioner itself is removed. If it is carefully removed you can see how far it has pushed out and see if it is maxed out. If it is beyond limits then a new timing chain should be rolled in.
This is what I have read and have been told but I defer to you as you’re a mechanic and I am not. I thought the whole point of a timing chain was, though they can get loud and won’t run the engine as smooth as a timing belt, they last the life of a car. I have a 2002 9-3 [B205R] with 160K miles and, given that the job is prolly an engine-out job and would take a long time, it would cost about $3K at a garage. How do I measure the chain tensioner? I hope my chain never goes bad!
No the engine was not sludged. A chain is not an indestructible item on a car- it’s certainly better than a belt especially when you’re dealing with interference engines, but like any other part on an engine it wears and eventually WILL need replacement. The most common issue with chains is stretching. With a SAAB B2X5 engine you can determine the wear by measuring the chain tensioner. But I’m sorry I disagree with your statement.
Was this engine sludged? You should never have to replace a car’s timing chain. Timing belt? Yes. But not timing chain…
Gave me some confidence points towards building my b234/b235 hybrid. Good video.
will this be basically the same for my B205L? and do they sell kits with all of these parts if so links please?
Since you seem to do all of this so effortless, i was wondering if you could make a video about how to remove the sump with a saab 9-3… i’ve seen that you’ve done this before on your website, and i have a haynes manual, but still, a video is always nice to have. I’m in the middle of swapping my blown (seriously blown) garret for a mitsubishi TD04 T15 #6 on my driveway (just axle stands) and i read everywhere it was a good idea to drop the sump and clean it out (216000km). Keep me posted 🙂
Sadly don’t have a crane to lift the engine out (though may get one anyway).
Got to ask though, how fiddly was it to lift the engine out?
What parts needed to be unbolted / disconnected and where to get it clean out?
Thank you so much jwells24 for that very quick response, on the forums that I had read, some kind of hinted toward that but I could not get a solid answer off of there.
I’m assuming it’s an automatic because this sounds like a faulty Neutral Safety Switch aka Neutral Position Switch NSS or NPS. The problem is the computer doesn’t know if the car is in neutral or park (the only gears the car is allowed to start in). There are a couple quick fixes because a new NSS is quite expensive. A google search for SAAB NSS will yield these fixes.
But just this last week, it started to crank then not turn over, so I let it be for a few min, then it would turn over and run fine, but then one day it wouldn’t turn over at all. I have checked for air, spark and fuel, all are there and it hold a fuel pressure of 40 psi. but what I don’t know is if the fuel is getting past the injectors. This morning I went out and tried it and it started instantly. Went to school, and it wouldn’t start after school. Please help, I’m so lost.
So, you seem to know quite a bit about Saabs. I also have a 2001 Saab 9-5 Aero but the sedan. I have a question that I have scoured forums for and have yet to find a answer. The car about 3 months ago would have all the electronic on with the key in the on position, but when turned to start the car there was nothing… no cranking or anything, I would take the key out and about 5 min later try it again and it would start right up. When its on it runs amazing.