Recently I got a check engine light on in my Saab.
Unfortunately the code was P1681: ECU internal fault!
So you don’t have to experience this scare, I’m going to show you a must have for all 2.0t Saab owners!
ECU Spacer Kit:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334229328551?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=334229328551&targetid=1645685075248&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=1024955&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685075248&abcId=9300841&merchantid=6296724&gclid=CjwKCAiA0cyfBhBREiwAAtStHE4290AV0g9hKwILL7BVig6TuNAF-pPR4kCq8E125eJuD9VOkYHNjxoCj4EQAvD_BwE
Heat shield:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-350305
Auto Autopsy’s video:
Let’s fix this thing!
){kind=link}
Your Ecu has been in that position for 16 years, do you think it’s necessary at this point? I’ve considered doing the same think for my 2008 but then figured any heat damage would have occurred by now. What are your thoughts?
I have the similar kit after my first ECU failed, but the second ECU failed after 4 months in summer. It is my third ECU now. I think it may help, but the amount of heat there is just too much. My first ECU last 9 years.
The hot start issue is a saab ecu programming issue . Your ecu needs to be updated so the car doesn't act like a hot carburated engine with a choke stuck on . Secondly the codes you are getting mean the ecu is bad . Main power relay and throttle body correlation is a type of failure of the ecu
Hey there. You're right to suspect the throttle body. The butterfly that piviots on a shaft meters the amount of air required and the ECU controls this and the fuel supply. When the shaft wares the aluminum housing more voltage is required to move the butterfly. So the throttle position sensor tells the ECU more movement required from your accelerator input but it becomes more and more difficult to move the butterfly as it wears. You get to a point where the ECU is sending the maximum voltage to the butterfly but it wont move to the right position that the throttle position sensor needs it to be. You then need a new throttle body. You will not get any codes on a cheap ECU reader. The ECU is not able to compensate for this ware. Most throttle bodies can be repaired if this is the case. Engine cutting out is only the beginning. When the car chuggs at idle and then a warning light you will know this is whats wrong. The engine code for this fault will then indicate a vacuum leak. You will think the manifold is sucking in air somewhere but no its the throttle body. Hope this helps someone. I like the autopsy clips as well. Love Saabs. * Love your wife worship your car! Cheers from downunder.
I like your heat adhesive ,not the kit the plate looks like aluminum which is like putting a frying pan under the ECU. I made my own out of G10 1/4 inch fiberglass and bought m6 rubber isolation mounts off amazon. Machined my own spacers for front bracket
Taiwan saab guys made a relocation kit too.
Replaced my ecu 1 month ago for 600 dollars,got p 2135 few days ago and now p 1681 ,is it sure to be ECU?
I couldn’t tell ya if anyone does those fixes in the US. Seems like sort of a lost art, obviously the prospect of having to dig into my ecu scared me. I got very lucky it was only the battery. I feel better with that spacer kit in there though. I appreciate the comment!
P1681 especially if you happen to get something like P2135 is a more or less clear indication of throttle body needing a replacement. ECU going bad is of course possible as well but it's the P0xxx codes more likely indicating that. The ECU is typically fixable though (as far as I've understood) , it's a matter of replacing the MC68377 and the flash memory apparently that would do the trick. There are a couple of places here in .fi that do those fixes, no idea if anybody has started to do that in the US. Maybe northridgefix could do that? 🙂