How to replace the rear brake pads and rotors of a 2006 Saab 93 9-3.
2006 Saab 93 9-3 Brake Pads and Rotors Replacement – Part I of II
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How to replace the rear brake pads and rotors of a 2006 Saab 93 9-3.
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The ABS light is usually linked to the ABS system and is an indicator of the ABS NOT the brake pad limit.
The ABS light being on usually means a fault with the ABS system which probably requires a garage unless you know what your doing.
Make sure you take the lid off the master cylinder brake reservoir before using the caliper compressor. I have seen master cylinders destroyed by omitting this step. Other than that, great video. I have the 2000 Saab 9-3 SE but it is essentially the same process with the same tools. Thanks.
Dont need the tool use a set of grips but be careful not to catch the seal or use a pair of circlip pliers, I bought a branke piston rewind tool that said it would fit my SAAB but it didnt so used the grips instead
Just search “brake tool” on Amazon.
Hi, could you please tell me the name of the brake resetting tool used on the rear after removing the pads. Thanks.
pads in the front need to be change soon. The rear brakes and rotors need to be change asap… Will see if the ABS light goes out after that. Thanks!
If there is a sensor, it is a wire embedded in the pad. There is not one in the rear pads – I have not done the fronts yet, but I wouldn’t be surprised if there is a sensor there. How are your pads in front?
question: do the rear brakes have a sensor? My rotors need to be change and my ABS light came ON.. Someone mention that is because the rotors have a sensor.. Anybody know?
Why does it sound like you are repeating yourself at certain points?
thank you,very helpfull
Nice looking spanner set !
Like every one else, many many thanks for the video. It save me a lot of time.
I spent a lot of time looking for the TORX tools. I found the sockets at Toolking.com. They didnt have any TORX wrenches. I wound up at Sears. They have a new combo tool. It is called a 6 in one. It fits 6 different heads and the TORX is one of them. I used the 14 mm to remove the upper 18m. The new tool works great and no rounding.
Excellent video! I do have more info regarding the E18. I actually located one (a deep-well) and was able to remove all but one of the bolts– the final one was slightly rounded off and give me a fit. It turns out a 6-point 14mm short-well socket works just as well (in fact, I easily removed the slightly rounded off E18 bolt with it, so in this case better). Just thought I’d share for those of you who cannot find a short-well E18.
Great video! Do you happen to know where would I check to find out if the tools I need are all the same for a 2003 Saab 93 ARC?
Great video! I wonder if you can give us the distance between the two pins on the adapter used for the caliper wind back tool? The centrum-centrum distance. Im about to figure out a tool on my own…Also the diameter of the pins would be great.
Thanks you. I decided to buy the socket kit in the end – cost around £65 here in the UK. Worthwhile investment for the fleet. Unfortuately, we don’t have anywhere like Autozone where you can rent the kit (unless anyone knows any different)
FTR, it’s socket number 7!
Many thanks.
I used the kit that you can borrow from Autozone for free (you pay 60.00 and receive it all back). The base tool itself has two nubs that nearly fit the holes in the caliper piston. In other words, don’t use any of the disc attachments. It is close enough, and if you go slow, it will compress the piston.
I just did this repair on my 2004 Saab 9-3 Linear. Though it was easy to break the caliper pins loose, I did have trouble getting the pins to thread back in once I had installed the new rotor and new pad. I did some research and discovered that caliper pins should be lubricated with brake lubricant every time you replace brakes. I picked up a bottle for 5.00 at autozone. Once lubricated, the pins eventually threaded and the rest of the repair was just as described in the videos.
Can’t find the correct parts to rewind the calliper. What size is the disc socket, and the two pins that go into the caliper?
I ordered the T45 and the E18 socket on ebay for about 4 dollars each. Thanks for the video. I was kind of worried since i havent been able to find a repair manual for this car. Its very informative
Thanks for the video. I’ll be doing it this weekend and this takes much of the mystery and fear away for a first timer such as myself:)
great video. I appreciate the visual. I’ll be doing this myself in 10-15k. lots of common sense, I appreciate the perspective from a DIY-er.
ps…in the UK it isnt an E18 Torx socket but a ‘standard’ brake hex key (7 or 8mm i think) to get caliper off. I’ve used the same one over the years on mark 3 ford escorts and VW bora.
Thanks very much for taking the time to do this……shame i hadnt seen it before i’d tried to force caliper in with G-clamp (and broke G-clamp) not realising that rears are different to fronts!!!! Having then seen your vid i went out and bought rewind tool that stated ‘all saabs’ but didnt fit 9-3. Ended up grinding down one of the tool’s adaptors to fit….it was then a VERY easy job to do. Thanks again – very helpful.
Thanks for this Video, I did the brakes on my 2006 93 over the weekend and the video was spot on. Harbor freight had a eTorx wrench set for 7.99 with a e18 for the rear and an e20 for the front. Had to use a Mapp gas torch to remove the loctite for the rear bolts. Ran a tap through the holes in the mount to clean out the loctite prior to reassembly. Thanks!