Good work i did one like that once and lost paitench i often now just take
the gearbox out as i fond the extra work is well worth it when lining up
things such as the frishon plate on the flyweal. Also im amazed as im te
first to leave a comment.
i am a complete novice and i got annoyed with so called mechanics letting
me down so i thought id have ago using this video on my GTI 6, yeaaaaap
shes in and running 100% better cheers rasta big up! 1.5 days later
Hi Darren firstly excellent videos they are really helpful, thank you. If
you wanted to change the release bearing as well, is there enough room to
lower the gearbox down and change it?
Great videos, some really good tips if like me you`ve never changed a 306
clutch before, i would say tho that there is really no need to take of the
clutch arm off, the release bearing is just clipped to the fork it will
stay on the gearbox shaft whatever you do, to save time leave the arm on,
great vids tho thanks for taking the time to upload, keep up the good work
๐
hi I just changed mine on a 2.0 hdi. I didn’t need to take the arm off or
the mounting bolt. or bracket.also on mine I melted the top and bottom
bushes of the release fork so I had to drop the box to change them. and
also change the speed sensor. the blue plastic bit is called a clutch
aligning tool. I used a proper one worked first time.
@Boxman363 The XUD runs a “pull” clutch not a push, you have to take the
arm off to allow the arm to spin far enough to get the gearbox off the
engine ๐ Trust me ๐
@darrenjlobb Yer i see it now at 5:23 a pull clutch,i should have worded my
previous comment don`t take the arm off if you have a push clutch !, my 306
has an XUD9 with a BE3 gearbox and runs a push type clutch, changed it
today your vids were a great help many thanks ๐
Good video! Changed a few of these pull-type clutch gearboxes over the
years and as you rightly say this isn’t a job for a novice (unless there’s
someone around to help manipulate that heavy assed gearbox back on the
input without straining it or your back) On my Xantia the locking pin on
the clutch release lever had seized solid. Took a combination of heat, a
good dose of Plusgas and plumbers freeze spray before it would shift. After
that it was fairly straight forward.
I taught myself pretty much everything i know…altho alot of stuff you
pickup off the net, and from other mecanics etc… the clutch is a bit of a
pain, just cos thers so many bits and bobs you have to take apart to get at
it!
@Oneandonlyshearer On the XUD the release bearing is part of the clutch
(pressure plate) as its a pull clutch…so gets replaced with new
clutch…on the push ones (HDI etc) you need to change it seperately as it
clips into the bellhousing on the trany inputshaft…
Hi mate, the sensor is on the back of the block, pointing inwards towards
the flywheel, this is then wired straight to the dash, theres no ecu
involved on the older TD’s.
Cheers buddy, servicing this weekend so will have a scout for it. Seems to
be a very common thing on the forums, would say 75% of the problems are
corroded sensors/connections :-S
Great, looks fun, but a bit tedious, I always treat my clutch with care
because this looks like a lot of work. Who taught you how to do this? Or
did you just teach yourself? It sound like you have much experience doing
this job.
Hey darren, trying to help a friend with his phase 1 xldt, he has replaced
the clutch and everything (to the best of my knowledge) is all bolted up
correctly. The car will go into gear but the clutch wont engage properly,
it bites very slightly (car will roll slightly) Have you ever seen this
problem before? Thanks
top bloke for putting these videos on mate.. studied car mechanics at
college but the teaching was wank so left and im trying to teach it 2
myself.. this is the 1st of your videos ive watched but ill b adding you 2
my favorites 2 watch the rest.. keep it up mate its very very helpful
thanks daz great vids just finished fitting a new clutch to my 306
cabriolet 20l petrol and it was almost exact the same. we had trouble with
the drivers drive shaft so just left it in and pulled the box of it just
saved me 150.00 happy days mate thanks
Nice work mate, your guide on changing the rear beam really helped. Bought
myself a bit of duffer which had the rear axle totally seized on the
bearings, so swapped it for a breakers piece. Just on this one, my
Tachometer is really intermittent, heard there was a sensor for it on the
flywheel?? Is that true? Apparantly a common fault, but after doing a bit
of rooting, it looks to me as though it’s all in the ecu. Its a ’97 turbo
diesel. Keep posting mate, fascinating!
 Clutch Change Guide Part 2')){kind=link}
nice work, slightly confused why you didnt just lower the jack with the
transmission on to allow you to use the special tool?
Good work i did one like that once and lost paitench i often now just take
the gearbox out as i fond the extra work is well worth it when lining up
things such as the frishon plate on the flyweal. Also im amazed as im te
first to leave a comment.
did you change the release bearing? does it run on the gearbox side or does
it clip into the clutch? im confused!
i am a complete novice and i got annoyed with so called mechanics letting
me down so i thought id have ago using this video on my GTI 6, yeaaaaap
shes in and running 100% better cheers rasta big up! 1.5 days later
Good job mate. Haynes manuals drive you round the bloody twist. See chapter
6 section 3 for the rest of my comment ๐
ajc I had the same problem as a fully qualified mechanic I realised that
the cable was knackered so replace it job done,
Hi Darren firstly excellent videos they are really helpful, thank you. If
you wanted to change the release bearing as well, is there enough room to
lower the gearbox down and change it?
Great videos, some really good tips if like me you`ve never changed a 306
clutch before, i would say tho that there is really no need to take of the
clutch arm off, the release bearing is just clipped to the fork it will
stay on the gearbox shaft whatever you do, to save time leave the arm on,
great vids tho thanks for taking the time to upload, keep up the good work
๐
nice work
hi I just changed mine on a 2.0 hdi. I didn’t need to take the arm off or
the mounting bolt. or bracket.also on mine I melted the top and bottom
bushes of the release fork so I had to drop the box to change them. and
also change the speed sensor. the blue plastic bit is called a clutch
aligning tool. I used a proper one worked first time.
@Boxman363 The XUD runs a “pull” clutch not a push, you have to take the
arm off to allow the arm to spin far enough to get the gearbox off the
engine ๐ Trust me ๐
@darrenjlobb Yer i see it now at 5:23 a pull clutch,i should have worded my
previous comment don`t take the arm off if you have a push clutch !, my 306
has an XUD9 with a BE3 gearbox and runs a push type clutch, changed it
today your vids were a great help many thanks ๐
Good video! Changed a few of these pull-type clutch gearboxes over the
years and as you rightly say this isn’t a job for a novice (unless there’s
someone around to help manipulate that heavy assed gearbox back on the
input without straining it or your back) On my Xantia the locking pin on
the clutch release lever had seized solid. Took a combination of heat, a
good dose of Plusgas and plumbers freeze spray before it would shift. After
that it was fairly straight forward.
dam that comment wasent there when i wrote this
I taught myself pretty much everything i know…altho alot of stuff you
pickup off the net, and from other mecanics etc… the clutch is a bit of a
pain, just cos thers so many bits and bobs you have to take apart to get at
it!
All sorted, friend had the wrong cable >_> fitted old cable and it runs no
problem Thanks for the vids, very very helpful ๐
Hi, Thanks for the Video Clip, been a great help.
@Oneandonlyshearer On the XUD the release bearing is part of the clutch
(pressure plate) as its a pull clutch…so gets replaced with new
clutch…on the push ones (HDI etc) you need to change it seperately as it
clips into the bellhousing on the trany inputshaft…
Hi mate, the sensor is on the back of the block, pointing inwards towards
the flywheel, this is then wired straight to the dash, theres no ecu
involved on the older TD’s.
@wigga02 No worries, im self taught….best way ๐ dont forget to subscribe!
Cheers buddy, servicing this weekend so will have a scout for it. Seems to
be a very common thing on the forums, would say 75% of the problems are
corroded sensors/connections :-S
Great, looks fun, but a bit tedious, I always treat my clutch with care
because this looks like a lot of work. Who taught you how to do this? Or
did you just teach yourself? It sound like you have much experience doing
this job.
Hey darren, trying to help a friend with his phase 1 xldt, he has replaced
the clutch and everything (to the best of my knowledge) is all bolted up
correctly. The car will go into gear but the clutch wont engage properly,
it bites very slightly (car will roll slightly) Have you ever seen this
problem before? Thanks
top bloke for putting these videos on mate.. studied car mechanics at
college but the teaching was wank so left and im trying to teach it 2
myself.. this is the 1st of your videos ive watched but ill b adding you 2
my favorites 2 watch the rest.. keep it up mate its very very helpful
thanks daz great vids just finished fitting a new clutch to my 306
cabriolet 20l petrol and it was almost exact the same. we had trouble with
the drivers drive shaft so just left it in and pulled the box of it just
saved me 150.00 happy days mate thanks
Nice work mate, your guide on changing the rear beam really helped. Bought
myself a bit of duffer which had the rear axle totally seized on the
bearings, so swapped it for a breakers piece. Just on this one, my
Tachometer is really intermittent, heard there was a sensor for it on the
flywheel?? Is that true? Apparantly a common fault, but after doing a bit
of rooting, it looks to me as though it’s all in the ecu. Its a ’97 turbo
diesel. Keep posting mate, fascinating!
Great video, just did the clutch on my 206 2.0 HDI and this helped a lot !