8:08, love the curious chicken!! LOL
Also, you tend to mumble a bit sometimes, and those are the really good
parts that make this video relatable. Good job on editing, makes it easier
to watch. Just make sure you lock the auto exposure on the camera so that
it doesn’t change when your white sleeves get in the shot.
Use slider lube for the caliper bolt/pins. Petroleum based lubricants such
as WD40 and anti seize will eat away at the rubber boot the the bolts go
through and will allow moisture in, causing the caliper bolts to seize up.
and you can touch the rotor, just not with dirty greasy hands as the grease
from your hands might contaminate the pads.
Thanks, I found this quite useful. BTW, the book torques are 62 ft-lbs for
the 17mm screws and 32 ft-lb for the 14mm screws. I found it easier to
slide (well, pry) the bracket off the rotor with the pads on there, and
remove them after it’s off. No danger of marring the rotors if they’re
going to be re-used.
nice video, but there were a few things that you should have done
differently. WD40 should not be used when reassembling a braking system.
use anti seize for between the wheel hub and the rotor. you can also use a
bit of anti seize on the anchor (the bracket that holds the pads) if WD40
gets on to the brake pads/shoes it will reduce their braking efficiency,
increase braking distances and reduce the life of the pads.
as for the caliper piston, i didn’t see anything wrong with the way that
you retracted it. you used an old brake pad to evenly distribute the force
from your clamp. the only thing that i do differently is I use a large pair
of channel locks, so I can get a better feel for the amount of resistance.
Excessive resistance could indicate that the caliper is beginning to seize
and should be replaced.
STOCK / OEM SCISSOR JACKS ARE KNOWN FOR FAILING UNDER MOVEMENT. PLEASE
INVEST IN A LARGE SCALE FLOOR JACK OR JACK STANDS PRIOR TO YOUR WORK. YOU
CAN FIND MORE NISSAN ROGUE INFO AT NICOclub(dot)com
1. DO NOT spray any lubricants onto the face or the rear of the rotor. that
lube will melt, dribble(like it did in the video) onto the braking surface
and contaminate your pads. if you want to use a tiny bit of brake grease
between the hub & rotor, thats fine. only use high temp brake
grease(sparingly). 2. That “handle” is the noise maker that lets you know
when your pads are done. more Nissan info at NICOclub(dot)com forums.
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8:08, love the curious chicken!! LOL
Also, you tend to mumble a bit sometimes, and those are the really good
parts that make this video relatable. Good job on editing, makes it easier
to watch. Just make sure you lock the auto exposure on the camera so that
it doesn’t change when your white sleeves get in the shot.
Great video!! I’m thinking about doing the brakes on my 08 Rogue and this
gives me the confidence to do it. Very good camera work and audio.
i broke the top bolt i got confused. i turned the bolt to the left instead
to the right.i have no idea how to remove that broken piece
Thank you!
Very nice job on this video. Very helpful and informative.
Use slider lube for the caliper bolt/pins. Petroleum based lubricants such
as WD40 and anti seize will eat away at the rubber boot the the bolts go
through and will allow moisture in, causing the caliper bolts to seize up.
and you can touch the rotor, just not with dirty greasy hands as the grease
from your hands might contaminate the pads.
Thanks, I found this quite useful. BTW, the book torques are 62 ft-lbs for
the 17mm screws and 32 ft-lb for the 14mm screws. I found it easier to
slide (well, pry) the bracket off the rotor with the pads on there, and
remove them after it’s off. No danger of marring the rotors if they’re
going to be re-used.
YOUR PISTON DUST BOOT DIDNT GO BACK IN CORRECTLY AND NEEDS REPLACING. YOUR
RISKING PINCHING IT. I SUGGEST A REPLACEMENT.
nice video, but there were a few things that you should have done
differently. WD40 should not be used when reassembling a braking system.
use anti seize for between the wheel hub and the rotor. you can also use a
bit of anti seize on the anchor (the bracket that holds the pads) if WD40
gets on to the brake pads/shoes it will reduce their braking efficiency,
increase braking distances and reduce the life of the pads.
Thanks for the video. does this model have the CVT transmission? would
enjoy to watch a detailed cvt fluid change when you get the time. thanks
Great video, wish everybody had the video quality and personality of this
guy!
Very nice ! Thank you
as for the caliper piston, i didn’t see anything wrong with the way that
you retracted it. you used an old brake pad to evenly distribute the force
from your clamp. the only thing that i do differently is I use a large pair
of channel locks, so I can get a better feel for the amount of resistance.
Excessive resistance could indicate that the caliper is beginning to seize
and should be replaced.
very informative! thank you
STOCK / OEM SCISSOR JACKS ARE KNOWN FOR FAILING UNDER MOVEMENT. PLEASE
INVEST IN A LARGE SCALE FLOOR JACK OR JACK STANDS PRIOR TO YOUR WORK. YOU
CAN FIND MORE NISSAN ROGUE INFO AT NICOclub(dot)com
1. DO NOT spray any lubricants onto the face or the rear of the rotor. that
lube will melt, dribble(like it did in the video) onto the braking surface
and contaminate your pads. if you want to use a tiny bit of brake grease
between the hub & rotor, thats fine. only use high temp brake
grease(sparingly). 2. That “handle” is the noise maker that lets you know
when your pads are done. more Nissan info at NICOclub(dot)com forums.