my daughter hit a curb going like 15-20 mph with the wheel turned and busted a tire. when we put the new tire on the car started pulling to the right if you let go of the wheel . so we took it to several mechanics and they did not know what to do .so we took it to a body shop and they fixed the pulling but now if u hit a bump it sways really bad do you have any suggestion on how to fix it
…also, the wheels should be checked for play in the bearings after another 50 to 100 miles after initial repacking.
He also did a bearing horrible repacking job and used the wrong grease.
You use the Red Stuff, heavy duty thermal resistant grease. Grease is not just grease like oil is not just oil and you use a packing tool
Krankie, he didn’t do a lot of things that he should have in this video.
I would have serviced the caliper by blowing out the pistons and cleaning and inspecting everything from the seals, to the boots to the bleeder valve and the cylinders and pistons of course.
I would have not spray my rotors to clean the protective film with the bearings exposed like he did.
And I would have checked to see if there is any play in the wheels after fooling around with the bearings….
Hey man you should have serviced your caliper!
Blow out the pistons, cleaned and inspect the seals, boots, pistons, internals of caliper and the bleeder valve.
Might as well if you putting on new rotors and pads.
BTW your bearing packing job was completely wrong and you used the wrong grease.
Also after removing and repacking bearings you should check to see of there is no play in the wheel itself, you do this by holding wheel top to bottom and jerking it back and forth. Must be NO play.
You don’t use the bleeder to push the pistons back. You open it while pushing them back so you don’t force all the rust particles and junk back up through the brake lines. It’s a good idea to change the brake fluid out anyway because brake fluid absorbs moisture over time.
side note: you should not use a vise but an actual brake caliper tool as using improper tools can damage the seals in the caliper.
no need to apply sealant to the hub mounting surface? must be a very good fit.
You really should invest in a brake caliper tool… it’s so easy to screw them up pushing the pistons back the ghetto way! And ALWAYS open the bleeder screw on the caliper when pushing the pistons back!!!!!
Great video, I’m hoping the procedure is the same for an 04 Pathfinder? Looks the same from the outside! Anyone confirm this? Whats the tool called, I thought the video said SST, but I Can’t find it at harbor freight.
I have to agree with everyone and thank you..My 2001 Frontier is sitting in the drive way yelling for new brakes but $350 doesn’t sit well with me. I did my timing time and a several other things but didn’t know how to remove those auto lock hubs correctly… Thanks for posting, this will save me a lot of money my friend. We all appreciate you.
Hi, I have 2005 xterra. Lately when I back out of my parking stall or even driving at hwy speeds, I can hear a loud high pitch squeal…slow driving or fast..there is that squeaking noise…any idea what caues that? I think it might be my brakes. I dont want to take my truck to nissan cause the bill will be huge. I might take it to a heavy duty mechanic..thx man!
i would mail you a blonde or a case of adult beverage of your choice for posting this video.
i am good shade tree mech but was very hesitant about the front rotors of the XTERRA.
thanks again for your time and effort…
ok, take a hammer and tap the hex in as far as you can then slightly tighten it, then loosen it, if stil not moving then hammer on the socket a few times, it might jar the rust and corrosion. If that fails then you can try heat but I’d rather snap them off and use a pair of vice grips to remove the broken studs then you are good to go. That part can be tricky, i feel your pain.
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my daughter hit a curb going like 15-20 mph with the wheel turned and busted a tire. when we put the new tire on the car started pulling to the right if you let go of the wheel . so we took it to several mechanics and they did not know what to do .so we took it to a body shop and they fixed the pulling but now if u hit a bump it sways really bad do you have any suggestion on how to fix it
…also, the wheels should be checked for play in the bearings after another 50 to 100 miles after initial repacking.
He also did a bearing horrible repacking job and used the wrong grease.
You use the Red Stuff, heavy duty thermal resistant grease. Grease is not just grease like oil is not just oil and you use a packing tool
Krankie, he didn’t do a lot of things that he should have in this video.
I would have serviced the caliper by blowing out the pistons and cleaning and inspecting everything from the seals, to the boots to the bleeder valve and the cylinders and pistons of course.
I would have not spray my rotors to clean the protective film with the bearings exposed like he did.
And I would have checked to see if there is any play in the wheels after fooling around with the bearings….
Hey man you should have serviced your caliper!
Blow out the pistons, cleaned and inspect the seals, boots, pistons, internals of caliper and the bleeder valve.
Might as well if you putting on new rotors and pads.
BTW your bearing packing job was completely wrong and you used the wrong grease.
Also after removing and repacking bearings you should check to see of there is no play in the wheel itself, you do this by holding wheel top to bottom and jerking it back and forth. Must be NO play.
Couple of things that could be done better here, order wise.
You don’t use the bleeder to push the pistons back. You open it while pushing them back so you don’t force all the rust particles and junk back up through the brake lines. It’s a good idea to change the brake fluid out anyway because brake fluid absorbs moisture over time.
side note: you should not use a vise but an actual brake caliper tool as using improper tools can damage the seals in the caliper.
What size are the caliper bracket bolts???
Is there a torque value for the bearing nuts or do you just follow the “GutenTight” method?
If you want to get ripped, you should search Google for “Elite Muscle Formula”. They can guide you and help you get the body you deserve.
Hey thanks for your input, and thanks for watching!
Yeah, just force all the moisture, rust and gunk back up through the brake lines and ABS system back into the master cylinder, that’s smart.
You should always flush fresh fluid through when changing the brakes to avoid problems…
Unless you want to bleed the system,You don’t need to open the bleeder screw,just pop the cap on the master cylinder.
Dude you got some arms!!!
that’s all there is to it!!!
Sound advice thanks very much!
no need to apply sealant to the hub mounting surface? must be a very good fit.
You really should invest in a brake caliper tool… it’s so easy to screw them up pushing the pistons back the ghetto way! And ALWAYS open the bleeder screw on the caliper when pushing the pistons back!!!!!
Is there a list of tolls that is need for this job?
Hey thanks for watching!
great video ! thanks for posting.
No prob – and hey all those toys are important!!
No problem at all!
Thanks that helped a whole bunch!!! AAA+++ Anyone got the torque specs for the hub bolts to rotor?
Thanks man. I just got my garage cleared out enough finally to get my vehicles back in. Who knew kids toys can take over a mans workshop so fast!
Should be the same as your truck. SST means Special Service Tool. Thanks for watching!
Great video, I’m hoping the procedure is the same for an 04 Pathfinder? Looks the same from the outside! Anyone confirm this? Whats the tool called, I thought the video said SST, but I Can’t find it at harbor freight.
Thanks for those kind comments! This is the reason I keep doing these videos.
I have to agree with everyone and thank you..My 2001 Frontier is sitting in the drive way yelling for new brakes but $350 doesn’t sit well with me. I did my timing time and a several other things but didn’t know how to remove those auto lock hubs correctly… Thanks for posting, this will save me a lot of money my friend. We all appreciate you.
probably the squeelers on the brake pads indicating that the pads are done – change them out! Thanks for watching!
Yes I suspected it was, pretty much built the same. thanks for watching!
Hi, I have 2005 xterra. Lately when I back out of my parking stall or even driving at hwy speeds, I can hear a loud high pitch squeal…slow driving or fast..there is that squeaking noise…any idea what caues that? I think it might be my brakes. I dont want to take my truck to nissan cause the bill will be huge. I might take it to a heavy duty mechanic..thx man!
The Nissan Frontier 4×4 is the same application
Brunette please:) No problem at all – glad I could help.
i would mail you a blonde or a case of adult beverage of your choice for posting this video.
i am good shade tree mech but was very hesitant about the front rotors of the XTERRA.
thanks again for your time and effort…
Thanks for watching – much appreciated comments.
Thanks for uploading this video. Looking like it’ll fit the bill for my ’02 Frontier 4×4. Way better than Haynes.
ok, take a hammer and tap the hex in as far as you can then slightly tighten it, then loosen it, if stil not moving then hammer on the socket a few times, it might jar the rust and corrosion. If that fails then you can try heat but I’d rather snap them off and use a pair of vice grips to remove the broken studs then you are good to go. That part can be tricky, i feel your pain.
Hey so I’m stuck at step one. I can’t remove the hub because the hex socket screw won’t budge. What should i do?
i used a synthetic wheel bearing grease for both.
what kind of grease did you use on the spindle? same for the hub?
Yes i suspect so, probably the same platform
do these steps go the same for a nissan pathfinder
if I bought every SST for everything I do I would have about 40K in tools that I would use once, but if i had to do it often yes I would buy the SST.
Why does no one ever buy the 12 dollar socket for the bearing locknut?
the rear is shoes.