How to Replace the Timing Chain and Tensioner Guides on Nissan 4.0L Motor

How to Replace the Timing Chain and Tensioner Guides on Nissan 4.0L Motor

This video demonstrates replacing the secondary timing chain tensioner guides on a second generation Nissan Xterra. This satisfies the TSB EM09-007 and covers the following vehicles:

2005-2012 Xterra (N50)
2005-2010 Pathfinder (R51) VQ40 engine only
2005-2010 Frontier (D40) VQ40 engine only

Additionally this job covers removing plenty of components to actually get to the timing chains if you would like to jump to a specific portion of the video you can use the links below.

6:40 removing the fan clutch/Fan assembly
14:54 Alternator
17:55 throttle body
26:05 Starter
31:10 Air Intake
34:56 Finding TDC

Lastly here is a (non-exclusive) list of tools/parts that you will need for the job:

Engine Oil Filter 15208-9E000 1
Drain Plug Washer 11026-01M02 1
Secondary Timing Chain 13028-ZK01C 2
Tensioner Shoe 13097-ZK01C 2
O-Ring, Front Cover 15066-2Y510 2
O-Ring, Front Cover 15066-5E510 2
Crank Shaft Seal 13510-7Y000 1
ThreeBond 1217F (sealant) 999MP-1217FPP (1) (2)
Oil to replace drained oil
Coolant reclamation system/ replacement coolant
Torque wrench
10mm, 11mm, 12 mm, and 13mm, 17mm, 19mm wrench’s and sockets
Socket extenders
Dead Blow hammer / mallet
Screw Drivers of all persuasions
Pry Bar / Chisel set
Gasket scraper
Car jack
Jack Stands

FER TO AN APPROVED MANUAL FOR FULL STEP OUTLINE AND DETAILS FOR THIS PROJECT. THIS VIDEO IS NOT MEANT TO REPLACE A FACTORY SERIVCE MANUAL.

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Comments

Patrick Gentz says:

I have an 06 Pathfinder with a 160k that rattles for a few seconds on startup until it builds oil pressure, is that a sign that the chains and or guides need to be replaced again? The dealership replaced them at about 60k. Not sure if it's time again.

FIRST FIRE1 says:

Hi..
Would you please tell me if I have to do the same with my 2005.. because I have an issue with the oil gauge it drops.. see this video please
https://youtu.be/suwYuVfa9p8
I am looking forward to seeing your reply
Thanks

Alexander Tremper says:

I watched this video a while ago and was puzzled by the tool J-48761 not working to lock the flywheel or whatever. Today I got my answer. When I added J-48761 to my cart on FreedomRacing.com, a popup came up and said this was only for AWD. The appropriate tool for 2WD is J-44716.

mike kopisz says:

And…if you're in there,replace the water pump…much easier to do it in one shot….Great Vid btw…I still prefer working on my Diesels though. Lol

mike kopisz says:

**Also,if only replacing guides on the uppers,USE OEM SHOES/GUIDES…the aftermarkets have a slightly larger I.D. and dont snap in on the tensioner plunger/piston…

mike kopisz says:

Use a rubber strap wrench on the heads of the vct's on the cams for fine tuning the cam timing…makes it so much easier vs pulling the upper plenum and valve covers to set the marks(unless you're doing all the tensioners,in that case it all has to come apart)…..just completed my first one, but I needed to pull both inner and outer covers and front cam caps to get to those 2 pain in the ass screws for the upper tensioners….also,the water pumps can be a bit of a bitch if its never been replaced (mine was on a '05 with 189k on it,all original)…soaking in PB Blaster helps with that…the good thing is,Honestly, these are pretty dummy proof to time cause of all the marks…overall labor time on the one I did was about 6hrs,start to finish,including removing all 3 tensioners..I also recommend using as little RTV as possible, as there are oil passages in the cover that can create an obstruction when the rear cover is being reinstalled..

mike kopisz says:

Use a rubber strap wrench on the heads of the vct's on the cams for fine tuning the cam timing…makes it so much easier vs pulling the upper plenum and valve covers to set the marks(unless you're doing all the tensioners,in that case it all has to come apart)…..just completed my first one, but I needed to pull both inner and outer covers and front cam caps to get to those 2 pain in the ass screws for the upper tensioners….also,the water pumps can be a bit of a bitch if its never been replaced (mine was on a '05 with 189k on it,all original)…soaking in PB Blaster helps with that…the good thing is,Honestly, these are pretty dummy proof to time cause of all the marks…overall labor time on the one I did was about 6hrs,start to finish,including removing all 3 tensioners..I also recommend using as little RTV as possible, as there are oil passages in the cover that can create an obstruction when the rear cover is being reinstalled..

roadblock525 14 says:

What kit did you buy and from where?

majorgeeek says:

its only changing the timing chain and guides for God's sake – no big deal – some people over react to doing mechanical work – if you don't enjoy the DIY then don't DIY

Billy Uttz says:

I bought a Nissian Pathfinder used, 2006 VQ40DE engine and it has a noisy timing chain. I've looked on line and CA and WA made Nissan replace the chain I understand. I'm in TN, are any Nissan dealeships addressing this issue and how? Also I have quotes from $1000 to $2800 to replace the parts, what would a fair price be if the replace only defective parts that Nissan know are at issue?

Walt Reedy says:

Ry, I hope you can help. The XTerra is randomly missing. I discovered one of the variable timing solenoid connectors was loose and reattached it. Engine ran fine, but when I started three or four times later, it was missing again. If I turned the engine off and restarted it might run fine. My friend read the computer codes and these are the codes: P0300 P0021 P0345 16 degrees advance timing #1. If I had messed up the timing when I was changing the chain won't it have missed from the start? If I had missed by one tooth won't it mess up the three cylinders on that side? I hope you can help me understand and get this thing back to normal. Thanks.

Larry Beth says:

I really appreciate your video. I'm in agreement with other postings here as to why Nissan used cheap plastic chain tensioners on the secondaries, couldn't they have used Delrin at least? Or maybe a roller bearing type of tensioner? So sad that so many Nissan owners will have to pay big bucks to have this done.

MilesB says:

Nice video but a waste of time and money in my opinion. There was a Nissan service bulletin for this stating no impact to performance or risk of damage. I can verify: 110,000 miles later I'm still running fine. I had that sound since I bought the truck. Would do it now only because I'm over 120,000 miles.

john Carter says:

Man Nissan really screwed a lot of people over with this Xterra suv. I wish I knew all this stuff before I bought mine

Mickey Bauer says:

Dude you did an excellent job but i can't believe you did all this without addressing one of the main issue on these engines, the main timing chain guide (the big one on the left). If you look at the close up shot at 1:18:24 you can already see the top hook broke off and it started sliding down. Once this happens, the main tensioner will have nothing to push against and your chain will start rattling like mad. This is SUPER common on these engines and especially with these original brown guides.

https://maxima.org/forums/6th-generation-maxima-2004-2008/567566-replacing-timing-chain-tensioner.html#&gid=1&pid=6

Nissan will go to hell for refusing to fix these under warranty for thousands of customers. It was an obvious cost cut compared to the previous model on maximas. Some even say it was deliberately designed to fail prematurely. They obviously didn't expect it to fail this soon. Mine started at 30,000mi (04 Maxima)

Volodymyr Buchak says:

Good vid,brother,now since you’re expert on nissan’s 4.0,i have a question.My 2014 X just started to blow antifreeze out of expantion can as soon as it heats up a little,i changed the tstat,waterpomp,check for any colling system leaks,back to point one,is it a headgasket?

Jonathan Edwards says:

I've been struggling with installing the overpriced flywheel locking tool. Looks like I have the same one and couldn't get it to work, installing it where the starter came out as you showed at around 41:00. Finally after studying figure 1 of the TSB a little more closely, and finding a post on a Frontier forum (same engine) I realized that "Ring Gear Stop Tool" J-48761 is not installed where the starter is installed, but rather on the driver's side by removing an 'inspection plate' that provides access to the flywheel. There is one single 10mm bolt that secures that plate. The threaded hole in the bellhousing fits the 4mm allen bolt that comes attached to the locking tool. This is confusing as hell, because the FSM clearly states to remove the starter motor and install tool J-44716 to lock the flywheel, but the TSB says to use tool J-48761. Arghhhh… Looks like you don't need to remove the starter at all!

Thanks for the great video. Hopefully the lessons I've learned will help others out here.

marian matusik says:

Yours video and patience is excellent. That job , I paid 2300.00 in dealer shop for that. Too complicated to do it in cold with no garage .

DJ Tech12zz says:

$1500-$2000 ??? Try $4278.00 direct quote from Nissan dealership. You bet your ass I’m gunna use this awesome video as a reference to change all my chains and I’m gunna do the water pump as well. Thank you so much for making this video for us. So many on these pathfinders are making that same noise as mine. Aka the sound on the video. I hear a 05-12 pathfinder making that noise at least 3 times a week from different people driving a ticking time bomb and not knowing it.

Excellent video!!!!!!!!

giovanny almenasdiaz says:

Wow excellent video … next project on my 08 pathfinder… question were I can get the flywheel lock tool ?

Christopher Wilcox says:

Look at how many views….. very helpful…..

Denny Watkins says:

Unbelievable dude. Great job.

Rob Cannon says:

How did you remove the power steering bracket bolted to the block?

Walt Reedy says:

I've just installed the new chains and noticed some slack on the engine's left side where the chain goes over the guide above the water pump. All of the marks lined up so it's not that. The slack is about a tenth of an inch. If I rotate the crankshaft the chain will tighten up. Continuing to rotate it will bring the slack back around. I've checked the tensioners (new) and they're working. Is this slack normal on the left side? I don't want to put the cover on till I have an answer. The chain is from a kit that replaced all three chains, tensioners and guides. Thanks for any and all help.

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