Disassembly of the exhaust, bolts, brackets, oil filter, draining the oil & removing the oil pan. Tried to get some good shots with a wrench in one hand and …
Disassembly of the exhaust, bolts, brackets, oil filter, draining the oil & removing the oil pan. Tried to get some good shots with a wrench in one hand and …
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Nice video
@towrecker Ya smart ass!
So how exactly did you remove the two nuts between the oil pan and engine.
I cannot seem to find an easy way to do this. I don’t want to have to
remove the crossbeam and supports that are in the way but at this int Im
not seeing a better solution. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
@darwinlachance Sometimes I do, lol….. this time I had some help from my
video software…….. I pushed it too fast and sounded like the chipmunks!
@sctflasher379 Thats before I have my coffee! LOL
The entire pan ? Would depend on used or new….. Unless it rotted out or
badly bent, a new gasket should help….
@More350Power Ok so I went to the nearest home depot and got myself one of
those joint attachments for the ratchet and I finally managed to get that
sucker out of there. Thanks. I did have to go smaller than a 10 mm. Now the
problem is getting the screw back in there when I put the new pan on. I
know that they are suppose to be screwed on in sequence from inside to out.
But I am too tired right now to even start that brand new problem. This
heat is a killer especially underneath a car.
thanks so much for uploading this vid.. now i can change my integra’s oil
pan.. tnx man
@towrecker Hmmmm, I wouldnt mind one of those….
@666TECHNO666 Not sure on that one, havent done a lot of work on Mazda’s,
but it should be similar to what I did. I just make sure I had clearance to
the oil pan bolts and room to drop it down. The toughest part was the rtv
the factory used, though holding only in a few places, was a pain.
Well, how long it takes depends on if you have all the tools. Being I took
my time and did the video…. the longest part was seperating the oil pan
which was glued in place with grey rtv…. If I was to do a start to finish
I would say a few hours and that includes cleaning the oil pan, the mating
surfaces etc and putting all the brackets and exhaust back. If I had it on
a lift, it would not take as long. Some mechanics charge 40 bucks an hour,
some less and some as much as 95$
Awesome video! doesn’t look hard. =D
Did u have to take off that crossbeam? Or will it come off just fine
without it off? If so what location and how did u support the engine?
@More350Power I have about a dozen , but I was thinking a ford 460 lol
Your really good at this!
@joeysmissy I think it was in the 60’s when I did this. Bad for draining
the oil, but not hot like it is now. I also used a torque wrench with mine
since the replacement was cork rubber, kept from cracking or crushing it. I
had fun getting the two nuts back on, but I think the thread sticks out far
enough I used a shallow 10 mm socket to start it and a deeper one to
tighten.
what car is this
I removed the short supports, two of them that went from back of engine to
trans and the other went from the exhaust to trans to something else…. it
was well worth it. The two nuts I used a 1/4 inch socket set with a shallow
deep well to loosen them… i might have used a swivel attachment also. I
might have tried using a regular 10mm socket and not snapping it on the
ratchet extension all the way and backing the nuts off. Its a pain the
first time you do it….
hey, i have an 89′ mazda familia/323 that has a drain plug that wont come
out(have to replace whole oil pan), was wondering if you know anything
about this car and what needs to be removed to get to the pan???
@More350Power and a good torch would have cut that exhaust off quicker lol
, you said you liked them loud lol
@joeysmissy No, there shouldnt be much difference between the manual and
auto trans. I just thought there might be less room with an auto. On those
two nuts by the trans, I used whats called a ‘swivel’ or a universal joint
attachment. I used a 1/4 inch drive socket set with a long extension, put
the swivel on the end of the extension….. then the socket on the end of
that. You have to manipulate it a bit, but the two nuts do come off. I cant
remember if i used a deep well or not though
if you spray those rubber hangers with some good penetrating oil , they
almost fall off , by the way 🙂
Keep in mind I did this for my personal vehicle, so I took my time, cleaned
the oil pan, straightened it out…. let the engine drain with the pan off
over night. cleaned and smoothed out the bottom side of the engine,
especially the aluminum front and back…. It would have taken a lot longer
had I needed to drive the studs out and replace them on the exhaust…. Up
on a rack, not videoing, mebbe a coupe hours for me….
@More350Power but I don’t think that “powerwheels” will hold it up 😉
@towrecker I was thinking that after the fact, I usually spray everything
with PB or something….. just wasnt thinking right lol Thanks man
@More350Power ever dan time!
U talk fast
@towrecker Hmmm, not a bad idea! Got a 394? >:}
@More350Power thanks anyway, turns out i bought the new oil pan for
nothing..after trying 2-3 hours to get access to it i took at the stripped
drain bolt with vice grips and a mallot…replaced the drain plug with the
new one…
@MrBlueroads LOL, lubricates all your joints!
@joeysmissy There were two bars, one on the back of the engine which was
easy and the one you saw at 4:00. Once you get those out of the way you
should have as much access to the oil pan as you can get. Its a tight
squeeze. Especially the two nuts near the trans that hold the pan on…..
do you have a manual or auto trans? Dont know if that would make a
difference. This one has a manual…….. no cooler hoses to deal with
etc…
Hope it makes sense. I actually followed what was in the factory repair
manual but the two nuts on the oil pan between the engine and trans were
the most difficult to get to…
@joeysmissy I may have tried a 3/8 drive on those two nuts, but I cant
remember what worked on that. Just a word of caution, when you do get all
the bolts out and get on to removing the pan….. the front and back halves
of the engine are aluminum. The RTV they used at the factory can be sticky
and a pain to remove, but be carefull on those ends, if you damage them the
pan will leak….
This is a 2006 nissan sentra 1.8 se, 5 speed
Man, those exhaust bolts came out nice! Rarely does that happen. This is
why I would need a lift. Working on the ground is such a pain in the
ass…Especially for a fat ass such as myself! LOL! Great work bud
Thanks man! I have never gotten an exhaust apart without cutting, twisting
off, or chiseling off bolts. I wish I had a lift, would have made videoing
better….. im not mr slim either LOL
@mrRhwalden Especially when you have to remove everything to get to it LOL!
Thanks for watching!
worse one I ever did was a ford tarus… v-6…. but all I had to do was
remove the crossover pipe…. and things don’t rust as bad here in cali
@More350Power I do have a manual. One thing I have noticed so far is the
two nuts that are the hardest to get are different from the other screws
holder the pan in there.Are these the two you are talking about? I have
tried all my ratchets but none seem to be able to fit in that tight
squeeze. I know that all the other screws can be unscrewed with a 10 mm
socket but what about those two nuts? Are they the same size? thanks for
the help.I am now on day two of this project and I’m frustrated.
@More350Power oh wait. I read that wrong. I thought you meant do I have a
book manual. My car is an auto trans. It is a 2006 nissan sentra 1.5s Do
know if that is the same kind of car you worked on in this video but I hope
it is lol. If not then I might be in trouble because I did everything you
did in the video
Changing oil pan gaskets…. always fun!!!!
Basically all I removed were those little stabilization bars, brackets and
the exhaust. The exhaust was the biggest thing in the way. I didnt have to
support the engine or trans as I didnt have to disconnect any major
supports or mounts. The only support I didnt show on video was a short
about 5 inches that goes from the back of the engine to the trans which
again was only for support and strength, nothing major.
@More350Power lets go big block 😉
Question how many hrs does this take? Also how much would it cost to do a
job like this? I need an idea of the price thanks.
@EmmaFromEngland Thanks Emma!, learned from growing up in my grandfather’s
garage and others….
@mrRhwalden Everything was rusted under this car. You bump something and
you get a mouth full of rust, lol. I was shocked when the bolts loosened.
Thanks for watching!